Just general surfing stuff
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Insta, gotta share this one:
My friend Bones. Too much backstory...but...in 1978 we all lived together in an old house at 7301 Draper Street, right next door to the Andersens, David and Leslie. In an attached studio lived a fully mohawked punk named Liz. In the main house was Buzzy De Philippi, Eddie Brinkman, Jeff Cyr, me, and my brother Pete. Bones lived in a shack he built on the side of the house. Pete and I were still in high school. All of us were teenagers, except Bones, who was in his early 20s. His mother was of the Nez Perce tribe, his dad was a fighter pilot at MCAS Miramar. Their marriage had failed and Bones had been drifting on his own since he was about 15. When I met him he'd already done 3 or 4 trips to Maui, living in a hidden cave at Honolua obscured by a grove of wind sculpted kiawe trees. Bones tapped the essence of surfing more than anyone I've ever known. His surfing was the purest expression of the act I've ever seen. The way he surfed, lived, dressed, valued...it was all on his own terms. Like this portrait I shot of him posted here...that's not some curated fashionista bullshit. That's just Bones, same as he ever was. He treasures his experiences, his boards, his friends, and the secret little shrines he created to live in, be they a candlelit cave, a shack on the side of a house, an abandoned WWII bunker hidden in the chaparral or under a scrub oak in a side canyon at Blacks. The Bones pads were enchanted, every object sacred, significant, and storied. His boards were battered but they were Fryes, Brewers, Diffenderfers, Hynsons...all waiting for a day with worthy waves. I had some crazy experiences with Bones, often on psychedelics. He'd speak in hushed tones about say, his Diffenderfer pintail "it's a Diff, RK, for the Bay, no wave is worthy around here...or he'd whisper about days when the rain washed out the roads to the Bay and he'd emerge from his cave to surf it alone, 10 feet and perfect, under rainbows during breaks in the storm. "Can't put that into words, RK." He had the deepest respect for the Duke. He never wore a leash in his life. "The sport of Kings, gone to the dogs" he used to say. To me, Bones has always been a King. And a fucking wizard too.
Bones is classic, there's a pic here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzLaGgwF29Y ... _copy_link
My friend Bones. Too much backstory...but...in 1978 we all lived together in an old house at 7301 Draper Street, right next door to the Andersens, David and Leslie. In an attached studio lived a fully mohawked punk named Liz. In the main house was Buzzy De Philippi, Eddie Brinkman, Jeff Cyr, me, and my brother Pete. Bones lived in a shack he built on the side of the house. Pete and I were still in high school. All of us were teenagers, except Bones, who was in his early 20s. His mother was of the Nez Perce tribe, his dad was a fighter pilot at MCAS Miramar. Their marriage had failed and Bones had been drifting on his own since he was about 15. When I met him he'd already done 3 or 4 trips to Maui, living in a hidden cave at Honolua obscured by a grove of wind sculpted kiawe trees. Bones tapped the essence of surfing more than anyone I've ever known. His surfing was the purest expression of the act I've ever seen. The way he surfed, lived, dressed, valued...it was all on his own terms. Like this portrait I shot of him posted here...that's not some curated fashionista bullshit. That's just Bones, same as he ever was. He treasures his experiences, his boards, his friends, and the secret little shrines he created to live in, be they a candlelit cave, a shack on the side of a house, an abandoned WWII bunker hidden in the chaparral or under a scrub oak in a side canyon at Blacks. The Bones pads were enchanted, every object sacred, significant, and storied. His boards were battered but they were Fryes, Brewers, Diffenderfers, Hynsons...all waiting for a day with worthy waves. I had some crazy experiences with Bones, often on psychedelics. He'd speak in hushed tones about say, his Diffenderfer pintail "it's a Diff, RK, for the Bay, no wave is worthy around here...or he'd whisper about days when the rain washed out the roads to the Bay and he'd emerge from his cave to surf it alone, 10 feet and perfect, under rainbows during breaks in the storm. "Can't put that into words, RK." He had the deepest respect for the Duke. He never wore a leash in his life. "The sport of Kings, gone to the dogs" he used to say. To me, Bones has always been a King. And a fucking wizard too.
Bones is classic, there's a pic here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzLaGgwF29Y ... _copy_link
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
I think this upcoming E swell is going to be about the most over-hyped, under delivered swell ever.
Unless you like surfing 3ft Tea Tree or 4 ft Crescent heads.
Unless you like surfing 3ft Tea Tree or 4 ft Crescent heads.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Steve. How much of it do you reckon will make it down to Sydney and south NSW by Tues-Wed? I’ve seen surf sites calling 5-6 foot. Thats double overhead sets.
Over call?
Over call?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Yes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I don’t care if it’s being overcalled. A week of ENE swell in winter on the NB’s. Happy days.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Sounds like an interesting cat, Cranked.Cranked wrote: ↑Thu Jun 27, 2019 7:17 amInsta, gotta share this one:
My friend Bones. Too much backstory...but...in 1978 we all lived together in an old house at 7301 Draper Street, right next door to the Andersens, David and Leslie. In an attached studio lived a fully mohawked punk named Liz. In the main house was Buzzy De Philippi, Eddie Brinkman, Jeff Cyr, me, and my brother Pete. Bones lived in a shack he built on the side of the house. Pete and I were still in high school. All of us were teenagers, except Bones, who was in his early 20s. His mother was of the Nez Perce tribe, his dad was a fighter pilot at MCAS Miramar. Their marriage had failed and Bones had been drifting on his own since he was about 15. When I met him he'd already done 3 or 4 trips to Maui, living in a hidden cave at Honolua obscured by a grove of wind sculpted kiawe trees. Bones tapped the essence of surfing more than anyone I've ever known. His surfing was the purest expression of the act I've ever seen. The way he surfed, lived, dressed, valued...it was all on his own terms. Like this portrait I shot of him posted here...that's not some curated fashionista bullshit. That's just Bones, same as he ever was. He treasures his experiences, his boards, his friends, and the secret little shrines he created to live in, be they a candlelit cave, a shack on the side of a house, an abandoned WWII bunker hidden in the chaparral or under a scrub oak in a side canyon at Blacks. The Bones pads were enchanted, every object sacred, significant, and storied. His boards were battered but they were Fryes, Brewers, Diffenderfers, Hynsons...all waiting for a day with worthy waves. I had some crazy experiences with Bones, often on psychedelics. He'd speak in hushed tones about say, his Diffenderfer pintail "it's a Diff, RK, for the Bay, no wave is worthy around here...or he'd whisper about days when the rain washed out the roads to the Bay and he'd emerge from his cave to surf it alone, 10 feet and perfect, under rainbows during breaks in the storm. "Can't put that into words, RK." He had the deepest respect for the Duke. He never wore a leash in his life. "The sport of Kings, gone to the dogs" he used to say. To me, Bones has always been a King. And a fuschia wizard too.
Bones is classic, there's a pic here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzLaGgwF29Y ... _copy_link
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Should be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pmYes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Virgins? Heavy but great wave.Wyre wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pmShould be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pmYes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
Re: Just general surfing stuff
T....... ?Wyre wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pmShould be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pmYes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Oh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.
In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
And Nick has a new superman wetsuit that he is dying to show off to the Lennox crew
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Just general surfing stuff
You can take Beany and pop into Crescent on the way up.Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 amOh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.
In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Virgins is way out of my league. @hatchy, yep T....jimmy wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 10:36 pmVirgins? Heavy but great wave.Wyre wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 8:50 pmShould be a certain rock shelf that starts working if all goes well!Hatchnam wrote: ↑Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:18 pmYes. With about 500 people on it.
If it delivers at that size, i will be scouting a couple of prime beachies just north and south of the gong that eat those conditions up. Just gotta wait and see.
The pessimist inside me is calling 4 foot tops, and surfing a 6’2 shorty. Hope I am proved wrong
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Yeah I don't really think so, we'd get to one of the many oh god "secret spot" rivermouth/wall breaks before Crescent and Polebean would panic because it was 13 feet.BA wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 9:52 amYou can take Beany and pop into Crescent on the way up.Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:55 amOh I don't care for all these pretend talking down, the coming week is going to pump.
In fact I am mighty tempted to jump into my mechanical steed with several excellent surfboards and head up north and blow shearer out of the water with my frankly quite incredible surfing skills.
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Oh, I don't know.......yeah, probably would. I like Lennox with a bit of size though.......except for coming in. Got a great barrel at Tuncurry at Easter though.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
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