Hans Einstein worked on fluid dynamics, and his dad, Albert, said turbulent flow was a more difficult problem than the theory of relativity.steve shearer wrote: ↑Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:41 pmRead that last paragraph and then understand why deep water equations for calculating Kj's are not appropriate.
Just general surfing stuff
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Nothing in your reference (http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hb ... twav2.html) refers to wave energy, let alone any method to calculate it or its relationship to breaking wave heights. It does support your contention that there are a lot of factors effecting influencing the shape and wave height as a swell moves into shallow water.steve shearer wrote: ↑Tue Aug 14, 2018 4:41 pmRead that last paragraph and then understand why deep water equations for calculating Kj's are not appropriate.
However, my observations over 4 years tend to confirm the greater consistency of shallow water wave size for any given kJ when compared to predictions based on offshore swell heights. These observation have been made at places with very specific bathymetry, wind and swell patterns though.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Just general surfing stuff
How about a thread for "Acceptance or Rejection of wave power theory"
Surf-Forecast is always so wrong it's irrelevant what power reading they have. And from what I've seen no one else uses Kj. Cranked you had better start your own website....actually now there's a project for you!!
Surf-Forecast is always so wrong it's irrelevant what power reading they have. And from what I've seen no one else uses Kj. Cranked you had better start your own website....actually now there's a project for you!!
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Cranked, the brains trust has spoken.
The fact that you have spent 6 months a year for the last 4 years on the Bukit and have found you can get a quite reliable sense of the swell at Impossibles from Surf-Forecast's kjs forecast.....well, you are clearly wrong. Wake up to yourself, buddy.
The fact that you have spent 6 months a year for the last 4 years on the Bukit and have found you can get a quite reliable sense of the swell at Impossibles from Surf-Forecast's kjs forecast.....well, you are clearly wrong. Wake up to yourself, buddy.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
I think Foamy, if you can get past that passive-aggressive little whine, what we've established is that surf-forecast might be useful for Cranked on the Bukit, but doesn't travel well.
So it's unlikely, unless other sites start using Kj, that it will mean anything to anyone other than Cranked.
So it's unlikely, unless other sites start using Kj, that it will mean anything to anyone other than Cranked.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Arrrgggggfftt. This is what I've been trying to convey to people Thud, 400-500kJ is 2-3 foot faces not 5-6', 1000kJ is 5-6' faces, kJs are a more reliable indicator of breaking wave sizes than the swell forecast wave height. Short period wave heights will over call it, long period wave heights will under call.
Seems to be travelling OK for this though.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Steve, I didn't think it was passive-aggressive. Sarcastic is what I'd call it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Oh great! That's a relief foamy
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
sorry Foamy, just been dealing with teenagers
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
foamy wrote: ↑Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:06 pmCranked, the brains trust has spoken.
The fact that you have spent 6 months a year for the last 4 years on the Bukit and have found you can get a quite reliable sense of the swell at Impossibles from Surf-Forecast's kjs forecast.....well, you are clearly wrong. Wake up to yourself, buddy.
Ive used surf forecast for a few place over the years and it's fked.
You know what Cranked. Enjoy your fking Kjs. Are we done now?
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
No.
Surely a powerful 3ft wave is better than a 6ft burger?
Therefore kjs wins.
Now we done.
Surely a powerful 3ft wave is better than a 6ft burger?
Therefore kjs wins.
Now we done.
Erase.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Done and dusted thud
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
fcuking hell.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Oh god Thud spare me. Out of the frying pan and into the fire. I was just ruminating on whether to take my two epoxy boards (7' and 8' nuggests, both unridden but I've owned both previously). No I'm not going there.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Thud is God?
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
as a circuit breaker. Looks like a fun wave. Discuss
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