Here's my 1mmm balsa top skin going to sh1t
can the 4T Ultracod compsand be saved?
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Re: can the 4T Ultracod compsand be saved?
Yeah, bag it!
- dUg
- barnacle
- Posts: 1858
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:22 am
- Location: sitting in my car waiting for someone else to paddle out first
Re: can the 4T Ultracod compsand be saved?
Glassed it today. I think it's gonna be OK.
Last edited by dUg on Sun Jun 24, 2012 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- dUg
- barnacle
- Posts: 1858
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:22 am
- Location: sitting in my car waiting for someone else to paddle out first
Re: can the 4T Ultracod compsand be saved?
So many fcuk ups on this one it's hard to remember all of them, but here goes:
- too much rocker in the tail section of the blank. I still don't know how this happened.
- laminating the skins with polyester because I'd run out of epoxy. they came apart in several places once glues to the EPS blank
- moisture getting into the 1mm top skin, causing it to bubble up in spots
- cutting the center plank 1 inch too short through the rear swallow section
- drilling the holes for the rear side fins 1inch too far back, missing the balsa block and going straight into soft foam
- sanding through the 4oz deck glass in a few spots
- having high gloss the epoxy on the deck go "beady" and sanding almost all of it off
- a few sand throughs into the glass
- cracked balsa around the nose rails on the RHS
- the decals refusing to turn clear after glassing because of wood glue used to tack them in place
- epoxy on the bottom looking blotchy after I'd wet rubbed / compounded / buffed it
In spite of these failures, I did get to successfully test several construction techniques I'll use on the next one. Some things that went well:
- planing in the foil and hardly having to shape the deck apart from the rails
- sanding the concave into the EPS then having the 3mm balsa bottom skin conform to it once glued
- the balsa rail strips lining up and conforming to the compound curves
- double lapped rails that didn't bubble up and sanded out really nicely top and bottom
- almost nil bubbles in the lam, even through the hard rear rail bottom side
- herringbone nose and tail blocks
- too much rocker in the tail section of the blank. I still don't know how this happened.
- laminating the skins with polyester because I'd run out of epoxy. they came apart in several places once glues to the EPS blank
- moisture getting into the 1mm top skin, causing it to bubble up in spots
- cutting the center plank 1 inch too short through the rear swallow section
- drilling the holes for the rear side fins 1inch too far back, missing the balsa block and going straight into soft foam
- sanding through the 4oz deck glass in a few spots
- having high gloss the epoxy on the deck go "beady" and sanding almost all of it off
- a few sand throughs into the glass
- cracked balsa around the nose rails on the RHS
- the decals refusing to turn clear after glassing because of wood glue used to tack them in place
- epoxy on the bottom looking blotchy after I'd wet rubbed / compounded / buffed it
In spite of these failures, I did get to successfully test several construction techniques I'll use on the next one. Some things that went well:
- planing in the foil and hardly having to shape the deck apart from the rails
- sanding the concave into the EPS then having the 3mm balsa bottom skin conform to it once glued
- the balsa rail strips lining up and conforming to the compound curves
- double lapped rails that didn't bubble up and sanded out really nicely top and bottom
- almost nil bubbles in the lam, even through the hard rear rail bottom side
- herringbone nose and tail blocks
-
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Re: can the 4T Ultracod compsand be saved?
love the logos Dug....
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