Just general surfing stuff
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
I rode a 6'10" or so in California. Only a few waves, back when I was still learning, but it was an easy board to surf.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Hmmm, I'd say they are much harder to surf well than standard tris or quads. But it's all personal. Good for the power surfer. V8 rather than F1.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
I emailed him re some info. on the PSV/glider type boards and he very generously wrote back with a bunch of thoughts about the design essentials.
As it happened I managed to find a second hand glider instead of having one made.
As it happened I managed to find a second hand glider instead of having one made.
- steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Magic Seaweed says it's 10.5 ft building to 15ft at Lennox .
Surf forecast says it's 5400kj.
Surf is about 2-3ft, slopey S swell.
Surf forecast says it's 5400kj.
Surf is about 2-3ft, slopey S swell.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Let it go Steve.
Poo final is on. Medina seems pretty inoffensive these days. But for some reason I still can’t stand him. Go Big O.
Poo final is on. Medina seems pretty inoffensive these days. But for some reason I still can’t stand him. Go Big O.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Magic Seaweed says the breaking wave at Ballina is 4-6 imperial feet, that's 2-3 surfer feet.steve shearer wrote: ↑Mon Aug 20, 2018 7:09 amMagic Seaweed says it's 10.5 ft building to 15ft at Lennox .
Surf forecast says it's 5400kj.
Surf is about 2-3ft, slopey S swell.
Peaking at 7-10 imperial feet at noon then dropping in the arvo. I wonder if that's pretty spot on.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
For where Foamy?
Ballina is a shire, not a surf spot. There are 20-30 surf spots in Ballina shire.
Lennox is an actual surf spot.
Ballina is a shire, not a surf spot. There are 20-30 surf spots in Ballina shire.
Lennox is an actual surf spot.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
According to Magic Seaweed it's 0-1ft at Broken head.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Pretty big spread. 15ft to 0-1ft.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Not being too harsh, as Nick explained, the east coast is an absolute bitch to forecast for.
I pulled a 7'6" out from under the house yesterday, I'll be riding a 5'6".
I pulled a 7'6" out from under the house yesterday, I'll be riding a 5'6".
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Yep, particularly such a southerly swell, I suppose.
Dr Tony Butt seems to be Magic Seaweed's head man for NSW. Legend, big wave charger and author of the book 'Surf Science' that you recently recommended. He lives a long way away, of course.
Dr Tony Butt seems to be Magic Seaweed's head man for NSW. Legend, big wave charger and author of the book 'Surf Science' that you recently recommended. He lives a long way away, of course.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
They get it equally wrong on the bukit which I imagine would be the easiest location in the world to forecast.
Sometimes they are out by hours or days, rarely, but it seems more often over the last year or so, the swell doesn't arrive at all.
My rough score rating for surfforecast on the bukit is they get it correct to within 25% (for timing and size) 75% of the time, if that makes sense.
Sometimes they are out by hours or days, rarely, but it seems more often over the last year or so, the swell doesn't arrive at all.
My rough score rating for surfforecast on the bukit is they get it correct to within 25% (for timing and size) 75% of the time, if that makes sense.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Yeah I read his spiel on this swell.
I think the problem is that swells here are locally generated in the Tasman sea and as Nick alluded to, a lot of things can go wrong.
In a very short space of time.
So what Tony Butt wrote about based on the prog charts didn't really happen in reality.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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- steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
no, equally wrong. Just with a different measurement attached.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
So what is that really, waist to chest, chest to head?
Give me something I can use here.
Give me something I can use here.
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
head high....bit more than that now.
Heading out now.
Heading out now.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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