Just general surfing stuff
Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45906
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I watched again yesterday afternoon......after riding a beautiful, beautiful set wave that I waited a long, long time for. There's a little wide knuckle of sand just off the main button. A wave of a certain size, of a certain period will stand up hard on this knuckle and then roar down the line. So I got three there, the last one just way, way past the hut. Down into the rock garden in the bream hole. Few urchin spines in the feet but well worth it.
So I'm watching. People jumping off, getting smashed. Turning around and doing the walk of shame when it was too much for them.
Kids shredding. Worker daddys on Firewires getting lip launched.
Unbeknownst to me the great Shane Dorian was also waiting and watching, and respectfully allowing the workers daddy's to forget their ritual humiliations and franking credits and get their wave counts up.
He came walking back along the track. Him, his son and another kid. My little doggy dropped a little nugget off the side of the path and I was just about to scoop it aside with a pandanus leaf when they came ambling past.
The kid stepped right onto the dog turd, squashing it into the soft, moist soil.
Should I have said something?
What?
"Hey Doz, make sure you take your slippahs off before going inside!"
That surely would be etiquette anyway?
So I'm watching. People jumping off, getting smashed. Turning around and doing the walk of shame when it was too much for them.
Kids shredding. Worker daddys on Firewires getting lip launched.
Unbeknownst to me the great Shane Dorian was also waiting and watching, and respectfully allowing the workers daddy's to forget their ritual humiliations and franking credits and get their wave counts up.
He came walking back along the track. Him, his son and another kid. My little doggy dropped a little nugget off the side of the path and I was just about to scoop it aside with a pandanus leaf when they came ambling past.
The kid stepped right onto the dog turd, squashing it into the soft, moist soil.
Should I have said something?
What?
"Hey Doz, make sure you take your slippahs off before going inside!"
That surely would be etiquette anyway?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
-
- That's Not Believable
- Posts: 69681
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
- Location: Button Factory
Re: Just general surfing stuff
That's a beautiful story, Steve. See sometimes it's better to just do nothing.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Yes, Polebean. Very true. That's true. Sometimes it is best to do nothing.
Like RESISTING FCUKING POSTING NOW AND THEN!!!!!!!!!!!
In other news! I've been fcuking ripping again.
Like RESISTING FCUKING POSTING NOW AND THEN!!!!!!!!!!!
In other news! I've been fcuking ripping again.
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Today the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Take that Polebean! If you want to see surfers doing nothing on waves, definitely do not try to get a park at Newport today.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I'm hoping to be one of those hopeless hacks out at the Ox tomorrow.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
At long last, I'm back in Bali tomorrow. For the next four months, the wind is going to be offshore, the swell is going to be from SW to SSW, and it will vary from overhead to double or occasionaly triple, every day. I'll wear a vest on some days.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
- marauding mullet
- Duke Status
- Posts: 11803
- Joined: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:13 pm
- Location: an upside down valiant
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Lol I was moved by it too.
In further news, if I’m lucky I will surf utter garbage on a mal in freezing conditions, and I’ll be happy.
Gooooo Cranky!!
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Will you be riding a channel bottom single?Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:44 amToday the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.
Pendulum stylings?
We need more early 80s log cabins NC surfing on here
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45906
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.
Just for the little guy, the every man.
Just for the little guy, the every man.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45906
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Good luck mate, find that little knob of sand and sit on it. Wait for the good ones.
If I was down there you could rummage through the quiver but it’s too risky while I’m up at Bribie
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I liked reading about his jbay go out. 6-8 foot, early roll in, into warp speed 45 degree climb drop lines. Nothing worse than seeing a point break surfed like it’s a beach break.steve shearer wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:01 pmI’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.
Just for the little guy, the every man.
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Ha ha dream on buddy. I looooove lined up point breaks. It's like Polebean on acid.steve shearer wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 1:01 pmI’d love to take Carroll’s meat and potatoes Newport surfing and put it in the deep freeze out at some lined up point break.
Just for the little guy, the every man.
Save the deep freeze for all those fish.
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Just general surfing stuff
No! I rode the board aj just brought back, and my god there were no pendulum stylings going on, it was just a fcuken free for all hack-a-thon. Shit flying everywhere.Hatchnam wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:34 pmWill you be riding a channel bottom single?Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 9:44 amToday the swell will rise magnificently throughout the day, and I will absolutely throw buckets all over it.
Pendulum stylings?
We need more early 80s log cabins NC surfing on here
Re: Just general surfing stuff
See this polegaloid? He’s showing off! Not only did he not need to get a park, he was chucking buckets of spray!!
I bet he doesn’t even noseride.
I bet he doesn’t even noseride.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45906
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Just general surfing stuff
He brought the board back?
What in God’s name for AJ?
What in God’s name for AJ?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
-
- That's Not Believable
- Posts: 69681
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
- Location: Button Factory
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I assumed Nicks been writing about how much he's ripping as a bit of a piss take on you actually.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Show one post where I’ve ever said I rip. I think it’s just you
getting jealous I can find parks.
getting jealous I can find parks.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 95 guests