Where did you surf today ?
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Ha ha yeah if anyone else was out.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Why is that, Nick? I'd have thought there still plenty of surfers around there amping whenever it gets bigger. Seems the ratio of chargers down here is much greater. Given the overall low number of surfers in comparison, it's weird
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
do you talk to yourself when you're surfing nick? i seem to recall you do it when you're cooking.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
i was just walking along the street in bangkok after seeing my wife off to work and found myself having a realsurf discussion with myself, saying stuff like all you do is talk no but i walk too come on this is a discussion forum after all just do it talk walk walk talk and so on. i had to shake myself to snap out of it.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
They're all down here to surf your town
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I dunno swvic, there are small packs of crew who hunt larger surf when it happens for sure but there are a lot of spots in Sydney when it really starts lighting up, I reckon a lot of non Sydney surfers would be surprised or possibly even a bit frightened
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
how's the surf today? i've seen a few pictures from wollongong. looks big!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
The "possibly even a bit frightened" bit describes me wellNick Carroll wrote: ↑Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:03 pmI dunno swvic, there are small packs of crew who hunt larger surf when it happens for sure but there are a lot of spots in Sydney when it really starts lighting up, I reckon a lot of non Sydney surfers would be surprised or possibly even a bit frightened
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
anyway yeah, solid 6-8' and a few bigger, super windy in bursts, did a couple of down the face aerials, fcuk they're cool! You know, when you take off and free fall through wind, the board drifts a bit then connects.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45901
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
War of attrition surf here.
20-30 knots of cross-off to cross-on, huge volumes of water moving and zero possibility of "clean" go outs. No way to fake the paddle.
Yesterday I rode the 6'1" Ghost, under sufferance because it wasn't quite enough board for the paddle that was required and I saw Bylsey out there on a giant green board and wanted to say hello but couldn't get near him.
Big windy wide sets strafing the take-off and cleaning out the lineup. The best ones came straight in after them, in closer on the bank and doubling up. To get one took a constant amount of punishment in the ruck, you had to get your head in there and tussle for the loose ball like a terrier.
Finally got the one I wanted, big wedge that came in behind a set.
The low volume actually made it easier to sit in the impact zone.
Today was substantially bigger, proper winter swell big. Big freight-training shacks just steam-rolling through the inside section, the whole ocean moving into the wave as it does when it's big here, unlike long range long period swells which hardly affect the ocean current.
I got lucky with the timing. Was just walking the point while my son had a skateboard, saw Kidman waxing up and he had his son there so we left them there under the pandanus, I ran back to the car and grabbed a 7'6" and got back to the jump off before Kidman had even launched.
It was hilarious how much water was moving. The swell had thickened right up, spray flying everywhere. You couldn't see anyone, but there was probably a dozen people from end to end.
Kidman went past on a big one with a massive knuckle of water in front of him and got a filthy big stand up tube.
I put in ten thousand strokes before getting a bomb.
The boys were happy on the rocks. We went back and had a feed of tailor.
Tomorrow could be really solid.
Then I opened my email and there was an email, legit, offering me a free trip to the Ments.
20-30 knots of cross-off to cross-on, huge volumes of water moving and zero possibility of "clean" go outs. No way to fake the paddle.
Yesterday I rode the 6'1" Ghost, under sufferance because it wasn't quite enough board for the paddle that was required and I saw Bylsey out there on a giant green board and wanted to say hello but couldn't get near him.
Big windy wide sets strafing the take-off and cleaning out the lineup. The best ones came straight in after them, in closer on the bank and doubling up. To get one took a constant amount of punishment in the ruck, you had to get your head in there and tussle for the loose ball like a terrier.
Finally got the one I wanted, big wedge that came in behind a set.
The low volume actually made it easier to sit in the impact zone.
Today was substantially bigger, proper winter swell big. Big freight-training shacks just steam-rolling through the inside section, the whole ocean moving into the wave as it does when it's big here, unlike long range long period swells which hardly affect the ocean current.
I got lucky with the timing. Was just walking the point while my son had a skateboard, saw Kidman waxing up and he had his son there so we left them there under the pandanus, I ran back to the car and grabbed a 7'6" and got back to the jump off before Kidman had even launched.
It was hilarious how much water was moving. The swell had thickened right up, spray flying everywhere. You couldn't see anyone, but there was probably a dozen people from end to end.
Kidman went past on a big one with a massive knuckle of water in front of him and got a filthy big stand up tube.
I put in ten thousand strokes before getting a bomb.
The boys were happy on the rocks. We went back and had a feed of tailor.
Tomorrow could be really solid.
Then I opened my email and there was an email, legit, offering me a free trip to the Ments.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45901
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
free reach arounds
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45901
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Hi Al
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
hi steve! i just read your post about the surf. now i'm trying to imagine what a knuckle of water looks like.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
are you going to go to the mentawais? do you have to write an article or is it really perfectly free?
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45901
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I am going to go. I have to make a promo video for them as my part in the exchange of goods and services.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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