Midlengths
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Re: Midlengths
Midlength single fins with seventies fins and rocker can have their place but seriously it's pretty damn limiting.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Midlengths
Massive fan of Devon Howard, ever since I came across the clip of him on that right hander on the orange 7'2 egg.
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.
Re: Midlengths
Solid 6' + with this setup was less than ideal. The fear/froth combo before the paddle out had me forget completely. Until my first wave. Too far to paddle back in and change though I probably should haveBeerfan wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:33 amswvic wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:05 amOn small fins. I have a JD 6'2" stepup. Went on a road trip to sth NSW last year and only wanted to take one board so that was it - just in case. Took some tiny fins for smaller days. PG3 in the rear, quad rears in front. Haven't changed them back. Not ideal for smaller days, but more than surfable. No problem when it gets bigger. Feels much freeer, but still holds well
Awesome, thanks mate. I was worried I'd miss drive but it is 7'4'' so should be ok. It's really about finding a way of making it work good enough to surf everyday waves. Big fins work for me in wide tail small wave boards ( though after switching to bog standard quads after keel quad in my groveller jd I loved it ) but in other boards I'm going to try to reduce the area.
Actually should have had my 7'0" semi gun
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?
Re: Midlengths
That's why I like it.
From my perspective, he has a graceful smooth style that is achievable to almost any punter that can put the time in.
I'd love to see more promotion of performance midlength surfing. particularly in the 6'6-7'6 range.
I mean, it's all well and good the big brands pushing their high performance shapes onto up and coming groms that want to surf the same shapes as the pro's, but what about the late bloomer that will never have the time to develop the skill to get the most out of a hpsb?
Many of us carry injuries that preclude us for venturing above the lip. Even a lot of moves that are on the face are inaccessible to those of us that have taken up surfing later in life.
What I like about Devon's surfing is the simplicity. Beautiful, flowing, powerful turns on big boards in bigger waves.
I flirt with high performance boards (a la my tomo EVO tangent i'm currently on), but I know that eventually when my back deteriorates and my priorities change, I'll spend more and more time on the midlengths just enjoying the glide, easy paddling and simplicity.
I've been surprised at the lack of online content available from companies like Firewire around their Seaxe model for example. I fondled a 7'2 in Bondi the other day, and in my opinion it's a weapon. But when you look online for footage of people surfing them... nada. It was good to see some good footage in the Deus movies (South to Sian etc) recently, but still, young rippers on alternative boards. The average guy will just look at this and see through it for what it is, an advertisement.
Now that we live in times where it's generally acceptable to surf any size/shape board you want. I'm surprised there isn't more of a focus on these boards and style of surfing.
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.
Re: Midlengths
You found the limits! Guess I'm hoping to as well, but nowhere near 6' thanks haha.swvic wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2017 1:27 pmSolid 6' + with this setup was less than ideal. The fear/froth combo before the paddle out had me forget completely. Until my first wave. Too far to paddle back in and change though I probably should haveBeerfan wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:33 amswvic wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 7:05 amOn small fins. I have a JD 6'2" stepup. Went on a road trip to sth NSW last year and only wanted to take one board so that was it - just in case. Took some tiny fins for smaller days. PG3 in the rear, quad rears in front. Haven't changed them back. Not ideal for smaller days, but more than surfable. No problem when it gets bigger. Feels much freeer, but still holds well
Awesome, thanks mate. I was worried I'd miss drive but it is 7'4'' so should be ok. It's really about finding a way of making it work good enough to surf everyday waves. Big fins work for me in wide tail small wave boards ( though after switching to bog standard quads after keel quad in my groveller jd I loved it ) but in other boards I'm going to try to reduce the area.
Actually should have had my 7'0" semi gun
Re: Midlengths
JET01 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2017 3:00 pmThat's why I like it.
From my perspective, he has a graceful smooth style that is achievable to almost any punter that can put the time in.
I'd love to see more promotion of performance midlength surfing. particularly in the 6'6-7'6 range.
I mean, it's all well and good the big brands pushing their high performance shapes onto up and coming groms that want to surf the same shapes as the pro's, but what about the late bloomer that will never have the time to develop the skill to get the most out of a hpsb?
Many of us carry injuries that preclude us for venturing above the lip. Even a lot of moves that are on the face are inaccessible to those of us that have taken up surfing later in life.
What I like about Devon's surfing is the simplicity. Beautiful, flowing, powerful turns on big boards in bigger waves.
I flirt with high performance boards (a la my tomo EVO tangent i'm currently on), but I know that eventually when my back deteriorates and my priorities change, I'll spend more and more time on the midlengths just enjoying the glide, easy paddling and simplicity.
I've been surprised at the lack of online content available from companies like Firewire around their Seaxe model for example. I fondled a 7'2 in Bondi the other day, and in my opinion it's a weapon. But when you look online for footage of people surfing them... nada. It was good to see some good footage in the Deus movies (South to Sian etc) recently, but still, young rippers on alternative boards. The average guy will just look at this and see through it for what it is, an advertisement.
Now that we live in times where it's generally acceptable to surf any size/shape board you want. I'm surprised there isn't more of a focus on these boards and style of surfing.
Local guy, short, must be 100kg. Rides longboard shapes. On his 8' quad, surfs it like a short board, jams it hard off the bottom then rips it's head off with a big whack. Gets his weight right down on his bottom turn and rockets back up. Then trims from the front through the dead zone. Love watching him surf, dream of surfing similar haha
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Re: Midlengths
Well, you know there's stunts and extreme manouvres but watching someone surf simply with good timing is very satisfying.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Midlengths
Exactly brother bean, simple done well is better than monkey chopping for sure
Re: Midlengths
I agree 100%. I got turned onto midlengths about 15 years ago watching this old digger riding a 7'6 DVS up the coast one year. He was drawing these beautiful lines and performing effortless figure 8''s. I pondered for years what he was riding. It was yellow with a winged emblem, that's all I remembered.JET01 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2017 3:00 pmThat's why I like it.
From my perspective, he has a graceful smooth style that is achievable to almost any punter that can put the time in.
I'd love to see more promotion of performance midlength surfing. particularly in the 6'6-7'6 range.
I mean, it's all well and good the big brands pushing their high performance shapes onto up and coming groms that want to surf the same shapes as the pro's, but what about the late bloomer that will never have the time to develop the skill to get the most out of a hpsb?
Many of us carry injuries that preclude us for venturing above the lip. Even a lot of moves that are on the face are inaccessible to those of us that have taken up surfing later in life.
What I like about Devon's surfing is the simplicity. Beautiful, flowing, powerful turns on big boards in bigger waves.
I flirt with high performance boards (a la my tomo EVO tangent i'm currently on), but I know that eventually when my back deteriorates and my priorities change, I'll spend more and more time on the midlengths just enjoying the glide, easy paddling and simplicity.
I've been surprised at the lack of online content available from companies like Firewire around their Seaxe model for example. I fondled a 7'2 in Bondi the other day, and in my opinion it's a weapon. But when you look online for footage of people surfing them... nada. It was good to see some good footage in the Deus movies (South to Sian etc) recently, but still, young rippers on alternative boards. The average guy will just look at this and see through it for what it is, an advertisement.
Now that we live in times where it's generally acceptable to surf any size/shape board you want. I'm surprised there isn't more of a focus on these boards and style of surfing.
Fifthteen years later I have a DVS All Rounder, the vision of the clean lines never left me, so I took a punt and bought one. Without a doubt he was riding this model.
Point is you don't see a lot of good mid length surfing, well not in Sydney anyway. I was lucky enough to stumble upon the greying stranger with the yellow board and fking glad I did!!
Last edited by Davros on Fri Aug 11, 2017 11:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Midlengths
Jet has hit the nail on the head, Devon Howard's beautiful carving surfing on good waves feels attainable. It makes you feel "yeah I can do that" (whether we do or not is highly debatable, subjective and irrelevant).
I have been surfing my midlength all winter because I surf less, harder to get out before work, damn south swells passing by out to sea etc but on my midlength my wave count is still high when I get out there. The length of ride is also good.
Re: the C bucket, I looked at them & the flat tracker and they look nice. But I found them a bit chunky in the 7" plus sizes....so I got a Gato Jungle Acid and it's amazing. Super refined and fun to ride.
I have been surfing my midlength all winter because I surf less, harder to get out before work, damn south swells passing by out to sea etc but on my midlength my wave count is still high when I get out there. The length of ride is also good.
Re: the C bucket, I looked at them & the flat tracker and they look nice. But I found them a bit chunky in the 7" plus sizes....so I got a Gato Jungle Acid and it's amazing. Super refined and fun to ride.
Davros: "But it felt a bit long and stiff"
Re: Midlengths
How's the turning circle on the Gato?
I got a nice long clean ride on the DVS today. I squealed quietly like a little bitch at the end of it.
I got a nice long clean ride on the DVS today. I squealed quietly like a little bitch at the end of it.
Re: Midlengths
Its mainly the hull I reckon, that's what they do easily on waves like that.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Midlengths
Beautiful Davros, at night before bed I gently caress the rails and run my hands over the beautifully pulled in tail.
I went to Byron and checked out the Howard mini and christenson s, I quite like the Mctavish Rincon but the Gato just felt amazing.
Only had it a month and have been quite surprised how well it goes in smaller waves. Just a beautiful hully ride, nice and loose off the tail, good trim spot & it's pretty quick
Davros: "But it felt a bit long and stiff"
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Re: Midlengths
Whereabouts Dav.....sounds like my old boss and genuine aus surfing legend Lester Brien.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Midlengths
Boomerang beach. Thin muscular guy. Like a cattle dog, all rib and dick. Very good surfer. Just wonderful to watch.
Re: Midlengths
That is some serious board poontang you were caressing. Gato must be a diamond.JaM71 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 08, 2017 5:53 pmBeautiful Davros, at night before bed I gently caress the rails and run my hands over the beautifully pulled in tail.
I went to Byron and checked out the Howard mini and christenson s, I quite like the Mctavish Rincon but the Gato just felt amazing.
Only had it a month and have been quite surprised how well it goes in smaller waves. Just a beautiful hully ride, nice and loose off the tail, good trim spot & it's pretty quick
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