Just general surfing stuff

[marauding mullet]

I remember when my wife and I caught a shitbox cargo boat from Sibolga to Nias in the early 80's. When we got onboard I said to her make sure we stay close to the boards at all time, if this thing goes down we'll be the only two with any hope of surviving. I only knew to do that because mates of mine who had done the same trip 12 months earlier drifted around for three days when the boat lost it's rudder in a storm.

[Wubic Pig]

Pig and yuke are in the area aren’t they?

Just north of you mate - anyway I'm in - when is it? What could possibly go wrong

[Beanpole]

I saw that dude that opened up The Maldives when I was in Sri Lanka in 82. He was telling people there was surf there and had come to Sri Lanka to get resin for repairs. He was using saris for matting as that wasn’t available. I was tempted to island hop but looking at the boat he came in on it looked dodgy considering how far off the coast it was in the Indian Ocean.
Skunked on Nias too. A guy at the bunkhouse we were staying at in Singapore had just come back and said it wasn’t worth going to.
“Gee, thanks for the heads up.”

[Cranked]

Surfers lost in the Banyaks. Sounds bad.

Apparently found floating on their boards.

Maybe they just found a great new break!

[Yuke Hunt]

Surfers lost in the Banyaks. Sounds bad.

Apparently found floating on their boards.

Maybe they just found a great new break!

One of the Indo crew members didn't make it.

[Cranked]

Yeah, unfortunately most Indonesians, including those on boats, can't swim.

[buddy]

Good to see EE gonna be surfing Trestles with a broken back.

[steve shearer]

so fcuking weird.

[Pants]

Yeah, unfortunately most Indonesians, including those on boats, can't swim.

Not learning to swim in that part of the world a bit stupid ?

[foamy]

About 30 years ago, a friend of mine and her 1 year old baby were on a boat in bad weather in the Lombok Strait. The boat started to sink. She knew she was in serious trouble when the Indonesian crew starting crying.

[Cranked]

Indonesia is an archipelago of more than 17,000 islands, with more than 50,000 miles of coastline. So why don’t its citizens know how to swim?

Because its primary ethnic group never took to the seas. Though there are thousands of distinct cultural groups in Indonesia, the dominant one—both politically and demographically—is the Javanese. Though the island of Java was, historically, an important stop on trading routes from Europe and India, the Javanese themselves weren’t sailors. Agriculture—primarily rice farming—was far more important, leading to a culture that placed emphasis on the land rather than the sea. The ocean was traditionally seen as a dangerous, foreign place, which meant that swimming never really developed as a recreational practice.

Same goes for the Balinese, who make up the majority of the country’s Hindu population. Indian civilizations historically sprang up along hills and mountains and didn’t place much emphasis on the sea. The Balinese, in turn, consider the sea to be a hazardous place; their most holy location, the mountain Gunung Arung, is located in the interior. This tendency isn’t universal throughout Indonesia, however. The Bugis people of Sulawesi, for example, are famous sailors: The word boogeyman is said to derive from their name, due to their reputation as fierce pirates.

The influence of Islam—which is practiced, in one form or another, by 86 percent of the country’s inhabitants—may also play a role. Muslims are expected to dress modestly in public, which means finding appropriate swimwear can be a problem. This difficulty may discourage some Indonesians from venturing into the water, although there aren’t any specific religious prohibitions against the practice.

https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=17703285

[Beanpole]

Yes, given that and the fact that they live in an unstable region prone to volcanic eruptions, huge swells and tidal waves it’s no wonder beachfront land was not sort after.

[channels]

so fcuking weird.

Reckon it was misdiagnosed? Can't see how he could surf if it was properly broken.

[buddy]

so fcuking weird.

Reckon it was misdiagnosed? Can't see how he could surf if it was properly broken.

More like brain dead social media managers putting out a brain dead post.
He won’t be surfing.

They just did a local news article on some bodyboarding contest at North Haven and were talking it up about how good it was while showing a few dick draggers in 3ft beach breaks.

Now I’m thought surfing contests could be shit but bodyboarding, if it’s not at pipe, teahupoo, cape solander, shark island etc, what the fuck are they contesting?

North haven lol

[Yuke Hunt]

so fcuking weird.

Reckon it was misdiagnosed? Can't see how he could surf if it was properly broken.

More like brain dead social media managers putting out a brain dead post.
He won’t be surfing.

They just did a local news article on some bodyboarding contest at North Haven and were talking it up about how good it was while showing a few dick draggers in 3ft beach breaks.

Now I’m thought surfing contests could be shit but bodyboarding, if it’s not at pipe, teahupoo, cape solander, shark island etc, what the fuck are they contesting?

North haven lol

Last year I watched some of the world bodyboard championships held at the local break in the Maldives (near the bridge to Hulhumalé ... in barrelling waves, the worlds best rip, but when its not hollow, its atrocious.

[Beanpole]

Had some great surfs at Nth Haven. It was looking good last time I drove up the coast but it was Sunday and way crowded.

[jimmy]

I think Fong was originally from NH.

[alakaboo]

so fcuking weird.

Reckon it was misdiagnosed? Can't see how he could surf if it was properly broken.

I've broken my back a couple of times. There are a lot of different flavours.
If he broke the spinal (most likely) or transverse processes, the wings that stick out, then surfing after 3-4 weeks is not impossible.
Paddling will really hurt and isn't advised, but it is not inconceivable that he surfs.