RealSurf Surfers' Forum

ive always wondered this.....why ride a mal when its hollow? i dont know how many filth kegs ive seen peel off and spit behind a dude trimming out on the shoulder on his log. and dont give me all that "have you seen those hawaiian guys bla bla bla" im not talkin about them. im askin YOU. your regular garden variety mal rider. havent you guys ever heard the term HORSES FOR COURSES.

Thats a pretty stupid question its all about the person just because you have seen lots of mals out on the shoulder doesn't mean anything. I have seen lots of shortboarders out there too when they should have been stalling and getting the tube.

And even if they are out on the shoulder how do u know there not enjoying that a whole lot more then being on a shortboard and perhaps not even getting that wave.

More a question of who is riding than what they are riding. Don't believe me? try this.
Go to Hawaii, catch a bus to the north shore of Oahu and get out at the school, follow the path to the beach at pipe, wait for a 6ft + day, watch Bonga, Kanoa, Dino etc get tubed, wait until they get out of the water and then ask them.

Not satisfied? Its 2004. Shortboards appeared in 1967 ( or so). The fins used on them were designed by a kneelo who prefers surfmats and likes to skim on the face of waves at high speed. Surely by now (35 years later) we can come to terms with a little diversity in the surf?
If someone chooses to ride on the shoulder, thats their call. Unless you are inside and being dropped-in on , why worry?

Yep. I couldn't care less whether they get tubed or not. It's their wave. Surfing's an individual sport. They can do what they want on it.

hey kalakau kid..... read up on my first post, i said dont tell me about the hawaiian guys doin this and that, i know they rip, i know they get kegged....im askin YOU guys, not bonga and the boys. and im not sayin you all gotta do this or that, but dont you LIKE GETTING BARRELLED? i started this topic cause my local is a harsh steep ledging tube, and is frequented by a crowd of mal riders who do nothin but get hurt tryin to pull in.........and before you sook back at me, have a cold drink and realize im not havin a shot at mals, im just dont understand what alot of you guys are thinkin.......

What are you trying to say nubby?! just because you don't understand doesn't make it wrong, who said you have to get barrelled, do what you want to do.

i just never realized until now, there was any surfer ever who did not want to get barrelled......but you learn somethin new every day i guess........

I ride both shortboards and longboards. Shortboards are the right equipment for most of us in hollow, dredging, critical waves. Right now I'm trying to learn how to ride a longboard well- including getting shacked. Why? For me, I learnt to surf on a 5'6" twinfin in 1971 and missed out on the longboard era. All I did for 20 years was shortboard- and loved it- still do. Right now I'm fascinated by what longboards can and can't do. Getting barrelled is a challenge for me at the best of times, and moreso on 9' plus, wide-nosed equipment. I love short and longboarding, and simply want to see what I and my equipment are capable of.

However, I don't like to waste waves and spoil it for others- so I'm choosing my location so I don't cause aggro. So when I get smashed I do it tactfully if not gracefully!

yeah nubster,

sorry if i came across heavy handed but your original post seemed to be yet another mindless slag-off of longboards.
If what you are really getting at is not the boards but the behaviour of a localised group of people riding them, then that is a whole different issue. If i was confronted with people going over the falls consistently at a heavy reefbreak, i'd probably be suggesting to them to get their act together somewhere a little more forgiving.

Mate - I love tubes, regardless of what I am riding. Pulling-in is pretty much an instinct really. I think that a few less generalisations about board types and surfers ( i notice you automatically include me in the group of over-the falls specialists!?!) would have generated a much more positive repsonse to your issue.

perhaps its just this flatspell getting to us all.......

Hey..
As you can guess i am kneeboarder more than a mal rider.. But ride the long stick in small waves. Anyways year before last i was in Puerto Escondido in Mex.. That would have to be the heaviest wave i have ever ridden... Anyway it is bullshit hollow.. and a couple of the locals there were riding it on long mals and making it look very easy.. They weren't hiding out on the shoulder either.. So i reckon it comes down to skill if you good enough to ride a mal in the hollow stuff.. fair play to you.. There was plenty of tourists then getting smashed... The other weird thing was a couple of locals out there in wrestling masks.. Never seen that before... Not really relevant but a bit of trivia for ya...

nubby wrote:i just never realized until now, there was any surfer ever who did not want to get barrelled......but you learn somethin new every day i guess........

Nubby that last comment was just ridiculous makes me wonder why you even started this thread when you obviously have a closed opinion on the subject anyway.

Man i longboard getting tubed is part of the process of surfing, maybe you dont think that the guy on the mal could be in his 40's and not very partial to the thought of most probably not making the drop and getting absolutely rorted afterwards...
oh yeh by the way that dude in the mask at puerto escondido used to be a pro wrestler in america...i think his name was ultimate dragon

That guy that uses wrestling masks in the surf was profiled in plb a year or two ago

Yeah i saw that.... he can surf alright too!

apparently he was told he couldn't surf again after hurting his back i believe but he jumped on a longboard and become a star

to evryone who ive pissed off with this thread.....i didnt mean to....i was after some info on something i dont do often.....if i was after a mal bash thread i would have posted it on the general topics instead of here.......but i put it here cause you guys ride em, so you can tell me this or that......and my post come off f#@ked even when there not suppossed to be causse im a smart ass.....i cant help it......

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