To Duckdive or Not?

Post by **Hound** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:16 am

T'is a serious kook trick, and I too am ashamed when i feel i need to do it, but there are some times when it is just necessary (I'm sure some big balled guys are going to say 'never, you're a pussy for ever letting your board go') but i generally find it's in need when a wave has closed out on you, you've not held onto your board and there's a larger wave right on top of you. I'd rather dive right down than try and retreive my board only to get caught in a half assed duckdive that would end with me being tumbled...

All in all, yeah salty, you kook, how do you hold you're head up in the water????

Post by **Chrisp** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:39 am

I personally hate ditching my board & have copped many a lip on the head because of it, but sometimes there just isn't enough time to set yourself for a competent duckdive, like you pull off a wave & then there is a bomb behind you, I'm usually more inclined to leave the board behind me & just go under (assuming there's no people) than get rolled by the wash & let the board go again,

good topic salty!

Post by **smw1** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 12:01 pm

Leaving aside the big wave boys who do what they need to do for survival, at the risk of sounding harsh, I don't think anyone should ever ditch their board. Obviously enough, this rule is even more important if there are others around you surfing the same break.

My view is that if it's too big for you to duckdive, turn turtle, or otherwise just hang on for your life, then it's probably too big for you to be surfing that particular spot. You're probably a danger to yourself, other surfers, and anyone who might have to rescue you.

Having said that, everyone has disasters occasionally and gets caught inside on a big set or something, and ends up ditching out of panic or because there isn't time to retrive the board and get a duckie in. I suppose that's an excuse.

Let's not forget that a duck dive also helps protect your board, as well as giving you something highly buoyant to cling on to and whip you back to the surface.

I've so far been lucky enough to avoid injuries from ditchers, but a while back a mate had his 2 front teeth knocked out by a ditched board. Not good at all.

SMW1

Post by **loco4olas** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 12:56 pm

I am vehemently opposed to ditching boards-however (and about to contradict that opening statement), about the only times I've ditched were in relatively small (1-3 feet) desperately low tide heaving beach breaks where I was about to be cut in half in inches of water-surfed all manner of other beast waves and have always had a dig at duck diving it-usually with surprising success.

Post by **2nd Reef** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:18 pm

Generally opposed to ditching, but some of the scariest (or funniest...depends if they're friends or not) things I've seen are people trying to duckdive big Vooey or Sunset.

Anyone remember that attempt by Louie Egan to push thru big chopes during a heat a few years back? One breathe out the back, then sucked backwards and down, down, down. Sometimes its just safer to bail.

Quick story: First season I had in Hawaii was surfing Sunset and got caught inside....just. If you know Sunset, even if the lip pitches over you its too hard to duckdive cos you're on a big board and so much of the wave becomes pitching lip. This was my situation. So I bail, but Barton Lynch is about 20 metres out from me and swings around late. I chuck my board not even thinking about where its gonna go. You can guess what happens.

He comes up blowing up, and I've got a fin chop 3 foot long in a new gun. He then begins ridiculing me in front of Layne and KB and others. Wanted to tell him to f*ck right off. That there was a whole pack bailing out and he should've known that before swinging around. But was too chicken to say anything.

Reckon I'd do the same again (bail out that is, cos Id certainly tell him to f*ck off...he he)

Post by **crooked** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:27 pm

There is no shame in a bail if you make it out the back and catch the next bomb.

A ninja has no shame if he runs away from an enemy because he knows he will live to fight again.

Be the Ninja

Post by **boogienz** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 2:50 pm

[quote="crooked"]There is no shame in a bail if you make it out the back and catch the next bomb.

A ninja has no shame if he runs away from an enemy because he knows he will live to fight again.

Be the Ninja

Legend!!!!

Post by **halfy** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 3:22 pm

best thing i've heard in a long while. good man crook. i think everyone feels the shame of the ditch, wether its on a surfy or on a bodyboard. Don't Panic is the key to a successful duckdive in my opinion. this is gonna sound a little weird but if there is a mammoth about to crunch me i say too myself in a calm vioce "Challenge" and it seems to relax me. hahaha heaps zen but it works for me

Post by **Trev** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 3:39 pm

One time when he SHOULD NOT have duck dived!

Out at the Alley, Currumbin a few years ago and a young kid duck dived in front of an approaching Mal rider who was on the nose and crouched and pretty well covered up. Literally scalped him! Very messy.

We got him to hospital via ambulance and the mal rider ( a high school teacher) visited him that night.
Very lucky, with lots of stiches, a minor skull fracture and mild concussion. But it sure looked bad for a while there with virtually the whole of his scalp hanging off and only anchored at the back.

I'll bet in hindsight he would have bailed!

Post by **Mr_momo_32** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 4:00 pm

i rarely do it,
if i was to do it it would be in large surf,
resulting in my leggy to break n shit ass swim in,
had a bad expirience over brown water shelf. :?

Post by **Kunji** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 4:39 pm

Over the years i have grown confident in duckdiving. Especially rocking off out 8ft point and getting caught inside. I atleast try to duck dive. Its all about timing.

Scrambling to the shoulder isnt always the best idea. Sometimes you have to wait for the wave to break and time your duck dive inbetween the first impact zone and the second one. You'll find that you can pop straight up.

The worst ones are when you are paddling back out and a set is looming, now you must decide if its going to break in front of you or if you can duck dive through the wall. So you go for it and realise its going to be a close one. BANG!!! Lipped on the head.

Or, the ones where you paddle for a set and miss it, you turn around and some massive whitewater is rumbling towards you. Looks like a bend in the ocean. The only thing i find solace in is knowing that everyone is getting hammered. No bailing please.

Post by **Damage** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:40 pm

ok ok I admit i occasionally have had to sound the alarm for the odd emergency evacuation...... ; if i think someone might be possibly in the vicinity i try to grab the leggy as close to the board as i can, wrap it around my hand and at least try to minimum my potential R.O.C. (Radius Of Carnage).

No shame in that surely? And have never collected anyone yet. (that i know of)

Post by **cheesey101** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 5:41 pm

always guna have a punt at least , theirs nothin worse than having to swim in so il take my chances any day , just time it

Post by **Cpt.Caveman** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 9:30 pm

A couple of guys I surfed with for a couple of weeks who were seasoned Hawaii and Indo surfers said ---> "Oh yeah, one thing. Don't ever let go of your board."

I've listened to them since and it works. My duckdive has become stacks better and when I'm getting completely thrashed I know my boards going to take be back up to the surface

Post by **Nick-W** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:14 pm

Duck dive, follow coop's plan and hold on. Worst case scenario is that you get pushed into shore...after a few bombs.

Personally, when there is a Rosy O'Donald set rolling in, I'm not looking over my shoulder to the guy behind me, I'm focused on getting under the mountain. So bailing is a bit of a desperate act for me. I would rather live with a broke board then back...

How about those waves that you think you are fully under, but they just get your ass and claim you...do you think the waves have competitions? Who can piss off or cain the most surfers?

Post by **Cheyne84** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:22 pm

Here's the thing. I'm somewhat of a novice when it comes to surfing and hence my quiver only consists of a ShAnE mini mal. It's 7'6.

How the heck do i duck dive it under anything let alone the largish sets given its bouyancy. I'm keen to drop the ditch the board technique given the risks associated. Also rolling over the surfboard with me on the underside doesn't seem to work for me. If the wave has any size to it, i get a beating and a half.

If you perfect the technique, can you duck dive most sets coming away fairly unscathed? And what if the sets have broken virtually right in front of you?

Cheers

Post by **halfy** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:56 pm

i reckon i get just as good a feeling scooping under a giant wave as i do riding one. there's just that element of danger aviodance that makes it sweet when you pull it off

halfy out

RealSurf Surfers' Forum

To Duckdive or Not?

Who is online