RealSurf Surfers' Forum

buddy wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:31 am

Big names with egos in check
Shane Egan.
Rod Dahlberg.

Slightly lesser name but famous brand
Dale Wilson

Cory in Torquay also seems like no ego.

There's heaps of good shapers without weird ego slash complexes ... way too many to list.

I know a few that are deep into conspiracy theories, but I won't name and shame.

Yuke Hunt wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:58 am

buddy wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:31 am

Big names with egos in check
Shane Egan.
Rod Dahlberg.

Slightly lesser name but famous brand
Dale Wilson

Cory in Torquay also seems like no ego.

There's heaps of good shapers without weird ego slash complexes ... way too many to list.

I know a few that are deep into conspiracy theories, but I won't name and shame.

They name themselves in their Instagram stories.
They’re not shy about it.

Geoff McCoy and Grant Miller seem like the epitome of the egocentric shapers. Geoff probably takes the cake, deluded, jaded, grumpy, etc. equally both these shapers have odd fan bases that lap up their kool aid.

I don’t mind a bit of ego if the board goes good.
Like Webber, MC, Banksy etc

Been surfing heaps this summer because my son has been frothing.

I normally surf for an hour, hour and a half and get out fresh, into it again next day fresh.

Now I am surfing 2-3hrs and sometimes twice a day.

Can really feel the fatigue and over-use injuries starting to pile up- especially when it's 4 or 5 days in a row.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:24 pm

Been surfing heaps this summer because my son has been frothing.

I normally surf for an hour, hour and a half and get out fresh, into it again next day fresh.

Now I am surfing 2-3hrs and sometimes twice a day.

Can really feel the fatigue and over-use injuries starting to pile up- especially when it's 4 or 5 days in a row.

The longer sessions really compound the fatigue.

Just trying to get my head around Steve saying Surgeons are the worst for big egos and comparing them to surfboard shapers.
One has a high level medical degree. The other left school in Year 10 and May or may not have ever read a book.

Brett Monroe seems like a regular guy. Billy Tolhurst doesn’t need to big note himself……also has an Engineering Degree.

Anyone surfed either little or big Marley beach in the royal national park before?

It’s around a 50 min walk north or Wattamolla.

I’ve checked it on foot three times now, and curious to hear from anyone that’s surfed it.

Apparently it’s deemed by SLSA as one of the most dangerous unpatrolled beaches in NSW, surfing and swimming aren’t recommended. Looking at the set up I can see why.

Big marley is a narrow 350 metre long beach that faces south and cops a shit tonne of south swell and rips and currents look horrendous, can easy see how you’d get swept around the point. The left off the point looks sketchy, the beach pitches straight out deep water over a shallow inside bank, there’s a right reef off the inside-west corner also.

Little Marley just south of it faces east, very narrow and offers a slabby right reef that wraps into the bay, though on low tide rocks inside can get exposed. Looks like it’d be fun on an east swell, but on south swells the north drift looks menacing

Keen to camp there and hit up either but looks like a great place to come unstuck also.

Hatchy, I've surfed it a few dozen times ages ago, never when it was big as I usually went there when Cronllua was small or to avoid crowds.

A nice boil on the Northen end and a mellower break south.

Are the shacks still there?

Cranked wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2024 3:11 pm

Hatchy, I've surfed it a few dozen times ages ago, never when it was big as I usually went there when Cronllua was small or to avoid crowds.

A nice boil on the Northen end and a mellower break south.

Are the shacks still there?

No shacks at either Marley beach I’m aware of.

And yes, smaller conditions would be the ideal time to test it out. Big groundswell days look like an absolute wrestle and risky AF

Toledo bows out of the Comp for the year.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:45 pm

Anyone surfed either little or big Marley beach in the royal national park before?

It’s around a 50 min walk north or Wattamolla.

I’ve checked it on foot three times now, and curious to hear from anyone that’s surfed it.

Apparently it’s deemed by SLSA as one of the most dangerous unpatrolled beaches in NSW, surfing and swimming aren’t recommended. Looking at the set up I can see why.

Big marley is a narrow 350 metre long beach that faces south and cops a shit tonne of south swell and rips and currents look horrendous, can easy see how you’d get swept around the point. The left off the point looks sketchy, the beach pitches straight out deep water over a shallow inside bank, there’s a right reef off the inside-west corner also.

Little Marley just south of it faces east, very narrow and offers a slabby right reef that wraps into the bay, though on low tide rocks inside can get exposed. Looks like it’d be fun on an east swell, but on south swells the north drift looks menacing

Keen to camp there and hit up either but looks like a great place to come unstuck also.

I seem to remember cliff stuffed-up his leg at marley. but think it was from high jinks when there was no surf.

used to go swimming there a bit...with swim fins. walked in from bundeena or a track off the road to bunbeena. both tracks are sun-blasted on hot days.

No cabins, Cranked. Must be thinking of the Nasho's southern beachies.

Best walk in is the second carpark along Bundeena Rd - 45 mins each way. Slightly more shade and can jump in the Deer Pool on hot days. No matter which way you go, you won't know if the effort is worth it till the very end. Expect to be disappointed every second attempt - at least. It's a long way to go to find you can't surf.

Gets the occasional bank, occasional rip bowl too, but it's very exposed so loses it's sand easily, and cos of its diminutive size it's often overpowered.

Lovely beach but.

Thanks for the reply stu

2nd Reef wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 13, 2024 3:13 pm

No cabins, Cranked. Must be thinking of the Nasho's southern beachies.

Oops, you're right 2nd Reef.

Got a chuckle out of this chick doing her complete yoga routine dead centre of the cresso webcam this morning.
I wonder if she uses it to check her form.

So many more poseurs there these days. Most on their van trip to Byron from Bondi.

I watched a replay of myself surfing Boings the other day. Shredding of course