Just general surfing stuff

[Cranked]

Oh dear, another day of glassy 8' to 10' perfection! Wish it would back off.

Around 10 waves in a set, the paddling is endless, 500m if you get caught as most of the pack do. And the sweep up the coast happens in minutes and adds another 500m and half a dozen hold downs.

I'm just watching.

Heavy mist this morning is most unusual.

Traffic jams are now so endemic and the roads and drivers/riders so fucking dangerous that it's not worth trying to get up the coast.

[Cranked]

Did a 2 hour recorded interview yesterday with a lady doing her PhD on surf history and Balinese culture's interaction. She particularly wanted the early days and as I was in Bali for a year in 1980 I was a good candidate.

She wants the pics of our traditional Balinese marraige ceremony!

[Wyre]

Epic SF heat just now!

[Cranked]

Jesus but surfing the Ulus bombie on a high tide has to be a trial, anyone who gets out is a legend. There is no letup on the overhead whitewater foam rolling in, and probably no help if things go wrong.

As soon as they exit the cave they get swept around the point and with luck they get out with 30+ minutes non stop paddling on a 9' gun.

Chook was first and later said a ski came over and asked if he really wanted to be out there by himself.

I spent the day checking the various breaks from the shore.

[Froim Grach]

Where is that PhD student from Cranked? A nice topic.

[Cranked]

Somewhere unlikely, as I remember being surprised when she said it, which means easy to forget.

Her accent was very neutral with just a tiny bit of something different. We exchanged email addresses.

She was well connected to the Bali surf community already.

[Froim Grach]

Let me guess. Munich?

[Froim Grach]

Odessa!

[Wyre]

Bellambi?

[Froim Grach]

Banyuwangi?

[Cranked]

As I said, they could well be in the running.

[Froim Grach]

You just keep it to yourself if you must then Cranky old boy, harumph.

[Cranked]

Can't find her email address. If get her details I'll tell her you are well worth talking to. We started this on the cliffs overlooking Impossibles, got some shade near a temple and let it rip.

[Cranked]

I've got to surf now, it's been too big for me for two days, easy double overhead, and now it's just well overhead.

[Froim Grach]

Go surf Cranked! Get some good ones.

[Beanpole]

Somewhere unlikely, as I remember being surprised when she said it, which means easy to forget.

Her accent was very neutral with just a tiny bit of something different. We exchanged email addresses.

She was well connected to the Bali surf community already.

How does she pronounce France?

[The Mighty Sunbird]

I snapped my leggie at Bondi today. I think it died of old age

[Beanpole]

Dreamy little runners if you nabbed one. Kind of wish I had brought my mal. Foamy* went well though.
* That’s my foamy rather than our Foamy.