Just general surfing stuff

[Cranked]

In the early says It was quite difficult to get to Ulus and the other wind protected waves, so I and everyone else surfed Nusa dua and Sanur a lot, and it was often onshore.

It was years before the roads and Padang bridge were built and got easy access to the Padang to Balangan breaks

[steve shearer]

I get the same wind stats for the wet season winds for Yoyos from surf-forecast, that is mainly onshore.

Forget surf-forecast, they are a bunch of kooks.

Look at the photo and now calibrate that right-hander with prevailing W'ly winds.

It's clean to offshore/sideshore.

Dry season SE trades straight onshore.

[Kunji]

Swellnet photo gallery.

Been to West Sumbawa?

Can't find the gallery. Maybe its a subscriber thing.

Yeah one trip we went to Bali and took the barge over to Lombok and then over to Sambawa. Stayed out the front of Supersuck. Ill try to dig up some photos tonight.

[BA]

Swellnet photo gallery.

Been to West Sumbawa?

Can't find the gallery. Maybe its a subscriber thing.

@Kunji https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... transition

[Kunji]

Swellnet photo gallery.

Been to West Sumbawa?

Can't find the gallery. Maybe its a subscriber thing.

@Kunji https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... transition

Ah nice. Man I gotta get back over to Indo.

[steve shearer]

I'm frothing all over again for Indo after that trip.

Yeah, there are more people in the water, but most of 'em can't surf.

[Cranked]

I get the same wind stats for the wet season winds for Yoyos from surf-forecast, that is mainly onshore.

Forget surf-forecast, they are a bunch of kooks.

Look at the photo and now calibrate that right-hander with prevailing W'ly winds.

It's clean to offshore/sideshore.

Dry season SE trades straight onshore.

Excerpt from surf-forecast: Yo-Yo's-The Hook in Sumbawa is an exposed reef break that is often working. May-Oct (Dry Season) is the best time of year for waves. Works best in offshore winds from the east northeast.

WTF!

[steve shearer]

Those kooks are clueless.

[Cranked]

Wind stats:

https://windy.app/forecast2/spot/591735 ... statistics

[ajohnsen]

Last Sunday, my son was having a surf lesson at Wanda. It was small and closing out on a shallow bank close to shore. Because of my hip, I was up on the concrete concourse, a couple of hundred metres away. I saw him catch a little one, almost stand before pitching forward. I thought nothing of it until, a moment later, I saw him being assisted to shore. I didn't think much of it, we all hurt ourselves from time to time, but pretty quickly, more people arrived, clubbies, the surf buggy, a surf truck. I was hopping down the sand with my walking stick quicker than I could ever imagine.

They had him laid on his back, with someone stabilising his head and neck. I cannot describe the deeply sick feeling in the pit of my stomach as the fear of what this might mean dawned on me. Luckily, an off-duty ED doctor was there and he was assessing him for feeling and movement, all of which he had. People were reassuring me that these were all good signs, and that he'd likely be okay, but any parent would not be able to relax until they had seen scans, X-rays, etc.

The poor coach, a lovely middle-aged Brazilian guy, was really upset. I reassured him that it wasn't his fault, that we all know and accept that surfing is unpredictable. Still, he felt responsible, as would I.

They got my son onto a spinal board, then into the basket and eventually onto the back of the truck. I have nothing but praise for everyone involved; they were amazing. It was so fucking hard to keep it together, the hardest being when people were kind to me, but I had to keep it together.

They got him up to the club's first aid room and pretty soon, a thankfully nearby ambulance pulled up. Again, they assessed him, and again, he responded really well. It was only at that point that I decided to call my wife - it was a balance of not enough information and leaving it too long. That's a hard call to get right, and sure enough, my poor wife went straight to the worst case. I didn't want her to drive in that condition to St George to meet us, but no way could I stop her.

Before cutting him out of his wettie, they asked if it was expensive. I told them his wetsuit was the least of my problems and, besides, have you tried getting out of a chest zip wettie, even as an able-bodied person? So, they cut it off.

Finally, they did a CT scan and later X-rays. He has compression fractures in T4 (25%) and T5 (15%). They are stable and minor. I'm still reeling from what could've been. I still get upset when I tell the story.

He told me that, when he first hit the sand with his head, he couldn't breath. He thought he was going to die. When everyone was surrounding him, all he was thinking about was that he wanted his family around him if he was going to die. He said that it also hit him how we only have one life to live, although that doesn't seem to have stopped him gaming.

When his sister first heard, she burst into tears and said that she felt bad for always being mean to him and that she realised how much she loves him. That night, when he was cleared to go home, she returned to her default.

Don't know if he'll get back on a board. I'm not going to push him, just see how he goes, but I have suggested, when he's allowed to, going for at least one surf, just to face the fear.

He was so lucky. Hopefully, he's learned how not to fall off a surfboard.

[alakaboo]

I've broken thoracic vertebrae before, it's scary but ultimately they heal pretty well.

Terrible feeling both as the patient and as the parent. I didn't tell my mum until a few months later. But I also didn't get the scans for a few months.

I highly recommend getting 'back on the horse', in my case a trampoline. It was terrifying but ultimately rewarding.

[marauding mullet]

Any idea how the fractures are down at T4 and T5 aj?
First thought about hitting the sand headfirst is the neck, but I guess we can fall in weird ways.

[steve shearer]

Frightening experience AJ.

How old is the young fella?

[PeepeelaPew]

Geez AJ. Thanks for sharing

[foamy]

A horrible experience. All the best for a speedy recovery.
“small and closing out on a shallow bank close to shore”. Statistically, the world’s most dangerous wave.

[ajohnsen]

Frightening experience AJ.

How old is the young fella?

He's fifteen, Steve.

[ajohnsen]

Any idea how the fractures are down at T4 and T5 aj?
First thought about hitting the sand headfirst is the neck, but I guess we can fall in weird ways.

Dunno, MM. He hit with the top of his head, and they think he probably curled forward, like head into chest.

[steve shearer]

Young fellas heal quickly.

Hope he comes good quickly.