RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Pumping barrels today.
Bout 6-7 guys out first thing so I surfed down the beach a bit.
Then they all went to work so I paddled back up and had the main spot to myself.
Snapped my leggy on a late drop but board went round the corner of the rocks and avoided any damage.

Pleasant little surf today. Much warmer. Funny rip. Started on a right bank and then drifted with the rip across onto the left bank. Then it kept going. Ended up way down past the left. Paddled inside and another rip took me back around to the right. Stayed there.

buddy wrote: ↑

Wed May 24, 2023 5:44 pm

Pumping barrels today.
Bout 6-7 guys out first thing so I surfed down the beach a bit.
Then they all went to work so I paddled back up and had the main spot to myself.
Snapped my leggy on a late drop but board went round the corner of the rocks and avoided any damage.

You score a bazzer?

Pants wrote: ↑

Thu May 25, 2023 8:46 pm

buddy wrote: ↑

Wed May 24, 2023 5:44 pm

Pumping barrels today.
Bout 6-7 guys out first thing so I surfed down the beach a bit.
Then they all went to work so I paddled back up and had the main spot to myself.
Snapped my leggy on a late drop but board went round the corner of the rocks and avoided any damage.

You score a bazzer?

I got a few.
Which is a rare occurrence for me.
But there was plenty of opportunity.

This could be the first genuine non-surf day I've seen this year.

I still got a wave in.
Only one spot surfable though.

Had a bash this arvo. Good fun on the foamie.

I actually had a midday surf. Well, 12.30 when I hit the water. An hour and a half of good clean, uncrowded fun.
Pretty amazing head high stuff despite the wave buoy showing 0.8m

I’ve been out the last two days. Kind of looked like Saturday but it just wasn’t the same. Really cranked up this arvo for a while. Rip was weird. Started just north of the Pav. Then ended up drifting right up into the north corner. It’s usually going in the opposite direction.
They have been bulldozing the beach. Filling in all the gutters. Last time they did that on this scale they fcuked the banks for a year.

2 hours at the local ledge this morning.

I had 2 hours on my own, outer bank beyond the end of the wall.
Didn’t see any sharks.

Fark. I don’t know how you north coasters do it. My mate lives at Bruns, regularly sits out at the opening to the river mouth. Just fuckin nuts.

But, seems to be less action there for some strange reason. Up until there is, I guess.

Bruns is nowhere near as sharky as where Buddy surfed.

take care out there Buddy- I would be careful this time of year.

The guy that got chomped near Elliston recently was sitting out the back the furthest.
Not that it couldn’t have happened to any of the others out there that day, but I’m always a little bit anxious about being the furthest out these days.

Thats just a white shark highway where Buddy was sitting.

Mostly still tigers and bulls hanging around but the whites won't be far away.

You're not going to get to the beach from there if you get bit.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Tue May 30, 2023 1:03 pm

Thats just a white shark highway where Buddy was sitting.

Mostly still tigers and bulls hanging around but the whites won't be far away.

You're not going to get to the beach from there if you get bit.

Is the risk still in the consciousness up there?

It seemed a few years ago there was an attack every few months but it appears to have gone quiet since maybe the Crescent or Greenmount attack.

That Greenmount attack changed things for me and a lot of guys that I know. Before that we were always wary when surfing over the border. But after that one I realised that it can happen absolutely anywhere.

channels wrote: ↑

Tue May 30, 2023 1:17 pm

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Tue May 30, 2023 1:03 pm

Thats just a white shark highway where Buddy was sitting.

Mostly still tigers and bulls hanging around but the whites won't be far away.

You're not going to get to the beach from there if you get bit.

Is the risk still in the consciousness up there?

It seemed a few years ago there was an attack every few months but it appears to have gone quiet since maybe the Crescent or Greenmount attack.

It waxes and wanes.