RealSurf Surfers' Forum

I like surfing.

You are moving away from your central premise.

"The question is, has surfing evolved or (devolved) into an enjoyable past time and those grumbling old men who have an incredibly narrow scope of existence now accepted that such dedication, at an Asperger’s level, is a big waste of time?"

I doubt Carroll would- he owns Coastal property as a result of it.

It was a brilliant decision by him to focus on surfing.

Exactly.

Surfing doesn’t need to manufacture “soul” in essence it’s lost its heart.

Your comment above says it all. One profits from another man’s toil. I think Pat Curren lives in a van in the beach car park. There’s no code anymore.

Pants wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 29, 2023 1:46 pm

I think Pat Curren lives in a van in the beach car park.

Not anymore.

Carroll earned it by his own toil.

You think those books wrote themselves?

He's an historian at heart, however I think there's enough chronological evidence of surfing. It's pretty straight forward stuff and pretty uninteresting. But, each is to their almost own.

To note most people who lay down their hard-earned green to buy the words are most probably members of the Kookoracy he so detests. He wants a bob each way I'd say. A great example of why surfing is such a mess.

But is it in a mess, Pants old trouser?
I was interested to watch that Gerry Lopez Doco. The ultimate soul surfer who part owned one of the first modern commercial surf companies….Lightning Bolt and starred in Hollywood Movies. Making enough money to hang foul in G Land and then go Snowboarding in Oregon. People called him a sellout for having his name on foamies at Costco

He probably the only one who got smart. He realised what a crock of shit it is, sold out and went skiing with the rich. He knows what he is and wouldn’t suffer surfings modern day identity crisis. Smart

Sometimes you get it wrong.

And sometimes there's a photographer on site.

Lookin good Trev

Pants wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 29, 2023 3:44 pm

He probably the only one who got smart.

Many, many like him.

They bought coastal real estate and are now rich.

They backed the dream and it paid off handsomely.

Trev wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 29, 2023 4:15 pm

Is that your normal kick out Trev?

A reverse head dip?

...

Lucky to get that on record Trev.

It’s a poor attempt at executing Steve’s signature move, in my opinion.

I can see the problem…..it’s a left. Very challenging and unusual for our northern brethren.

buddy wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 29, 2023 7:16 pm

It’s a poor attempt at executing Steve’s signature move, in my opinion.

That was my first thought.

Welcome to the club Trev.