RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Sorry

Cranked wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 10, 2022 6:23 pm

Sorry

Keep it coming Cranked. I’m living vicariously through you. Down here it’s an apparent temp of 4 degrees in the middle of the day and 30 knot southerlies. On the plus side, I could get pretty much any break to myself if I wanted.

It was 30C last night at 1am, so I turned the AC on. I normally sleep without it

BA wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 10, 2022 6:41 pm

Cranked wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 10, 2022 6:23 pm

Sorry

Keep it coming Cranked. I’m living vicariously through you. Down here it’s an apparent temp of 4 degrees in the middle of the day and 30 knot southerlies. On the plus side, I could get pretty much any break to myself if I wanted.

Going offshore Tuesday and the swell down (lol) to 2m. Hope you find something good

Winter in those parts is epic

Cronulla Point. Solid

Went back down to Bronte for a swim. The incoming tide had moved the take off further inside and across from this morning. Only two guys having a crack but they got a few bombs. Big tow ins at South Coogee as well this morning. Great looking swell.

Wow it was so heavy down t’point this morning. Big 10ft sets.

I watched for ages, thinking maybe I should stay on dry land. Then I kept seeing these smoking insiders rifling down through the south corner, figured I could dodge the big boys and try and nab one. I eventually suited up and decided to paddle out from the sheds. Of course, a huge set came through and landed right on me. I couldn’t believe the power in the water, that 13sec period was intense. It drilled me, 5 waves on the head until I came up at Macauley’s bloody beach. My lungs were burning, I then had to get over another 8 ft set. Took me 20 minutes of non stop paddling to get back to where I started.

By that stage I was rattled. Tried to catch a few but confidence was low.

Saw some epic waves taken on though. What a swell!

I did something similar a few years back, straight out the front here ... the waves were huge, but looked makable if you could get out, so I walked about 2km down the beach to negate the sweep. After an eternity of paddling and getting hammered, I ended up where I'd walked from and was still only about 10m out from the beach ... called it a day.

Did something similar at Freshwater once.
First light, massive swell but easy out in the rip channel along the south headland. Got out the back, still alone and realised I shouldn't be there.

Managed to snag a smaller one by paddling like mad between sets, dodged the rocks, made the beach and went home.

Trev wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 13, 2022 10:14 am

Did something similar at Freshwater once.
First light, massive swell but easy out in the rip channel along the south headland. Got out the back, still alone and realised I shouldn't be there.

Managed to snag a smaller one by paddling like mad between sets, dodged the rocks, made the beach and went home.

Lol I did pretty much the same thing there years ago. Was too big. Getting out was easy with the rip. Although I couldn’t get any smaller ones so took a set wave that pretty much shut down within seconds. I straightened out and bellied it into the beach. Full tail between legs moment.

We hadn’t seen any serious size in the swell all weekend here.
Surfed the local yesterday arvo and got a few smokers.
Had to wait a fair while between close outs and lulls.
The lulls made it easy to get out at least as there were some powerful 6ft sets.
I was the last one out about 5.15 and a big step ladder set obliterated me.
Solid 10ft sets today. Not for me.
I’m sure the point is pretty good.

Bit fat, wide and pushy. Some big drops on the Outside peak.

Might try a cruisey semi protected wave somewhere for the arvo.
Done more surfing this week than I have in yonks.

Trev wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 13, 2022 10:14 am

Did something similar at Freshwater once.
First light, massive swell but easy out in the rip channel along the south headland. Got out the back, still alone and realised I shouldn't be there.

Managed to snag a smaller one by paddling like mad between sets, dodged the rocks, made the beach and went home.

Yes, Bronte is good for that. You can often slip out in the rip with a bit of luck. Saw a guy nearly make it out on Saturday from the beach. It looked relatively easy for how big it was to get out off the pool. The sets were tending to head across diagonally rather than hit the pool straight on. This guy started paddling and there was a crazy long lull in the sets. He didn’t paddle hard enough though and got washed in. They were surfing way out level with the other reef that breaks in front of the cemetery.

Dragged myself down for a small sess at collaroy out of the wind. The reefers were having a comp so got to catch up with a few of the guys which was nice. Should rejoin and get down there for a bit of fun when I can

Noosa near the rivermouth.
Wrecks and Relics comp.
O70s.
3rd in round 1 yesterday am
1st in round 2 yesterday pm
4th in semi today so no final for me this time.
Some hot competitors from Vicco, Lennox, Cabarita, Burleigh and the 3 clubs up here so I'm happy with that.

Onya trev. Reckon you'll still be out ther in the over 80s

Good stuff, Trev.