the path this arv

[_cant_touch_this]

swell was pickin up by the minute. onshore but still felt like standin under a waterfall when ya paddled over the bombs. by dark it was easy 2x o'head+ and still gettin bigger. 3-6 wave sets every 5 or so minutes and 2-4 wave bomb sets every 10-15 minutes. derek hynd out there on a 8'5" and chargin real hard (as usual) plus a number of other go-getters all takin a slice o the action. i found meself out there by me lonesome when a monster reared up on the reef and could hear a dozen hoots from behind me (i was about 150-200m out from shore). paddled me arse orf, just about ta turn and go and the bastard broke!!! never mind, picked up one just as big 5 minutes later, hopelessly undergunned on me 6'0" that goes like shit and i wanna sell sooner or later. manage to paddle into it even though the next bajillion sections in front were gonna shut down on me. dh drops in about 20m down the line, i didnt bother even tryin ta call him off. anyways, i manage to somehow make the drop and i go to steer round an impossible section when i hits a bit o chop... get rag-dolled soooooo hard and come up with me nose spewin out blood, "here sharkies!".
go in and manage ta scab a lift home, just stoked.

so any other realsurfers out there in disguise?