Mine today was soooo fun.
A sucky lil ripbowl, loads of barrels, with a punchy end section.
Got a few backhand ones but got clipped at the end, then a beauty of a wave came through, i dropped in and got my first decent pit in agggeees.
Describe your surf
Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators
-
g_u_m_b_y
- barnacle
- Posts: 1771
- Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2005 6:20 pm
- Location: Lennox. Central Coast. Dbah. Raglan.
Describe your surf
Thought we needed a gloating/vent thread about our surfs.
Mine today was soooo fun.
A sucky lil ripbowl, loads of barrels, with a punchy end section.
Got a few backhand ones but got clipped at the end, then a beauty of a wave came through, i dropped in and got my first decent pit in agggeees.
Mine today was soooo fun.
A sucky lil ripbowl, loads of barrels, with a punchy end section.
Got a few backhand ones but got clipped at the end, then a beauty of a wave came through, i dropped in and got my first decent pit in agggeees.
-
mustkillmulloway
- Owl status
- Posts: 4893
- Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:15 pm
- Location: i live in a pineapple under the sea
the point waas alot smaller than i expected 
i watch a few on the rivermouth...tempting...but it always is
cursing under me breath i didn't buy the mal
i join the crew on the point....all 6 us
jumpin off....mixed feelings....i'm on the inside
but guys have been waitin 
i use the nod ...how u going rountine.....it's easier to take the next set wave if i've made eye contact
a semi decent one comes in....don't really want it...but get called in
worst wave the surf
after that i get a few goodens
the highlight is when two locals collade....BIG BLOW UP
u get that
i get out by 10......the longboard crew have woke up.....it's circus time
p.s the water was warm.....no steamer yet....HA HA mexicans
i watch a few on the rivermouth...tempting...but it always is
cursing under me breath i didn't buy the mal
i join the crew on the point....all 6 us
jumpin off....mixed feelings....i'm on the inside
but guys have been waitin
i use the nod ...how u going rountine.....it's easier to take the next set wave if i've made eye contact
a semi decent one comes in....don't really want it...but get called in
worst wave the surf
after that i get a few goodens
the highlight is when two locals collade....BIG BLOW UP
u get that
i get out by 10......the longboard crew have woke up.....it's circus time
p.s the water was warm.....no steamer yet....HA HA mexicans
ok heres my gloating.....
Sunday- 5-6 ft local point, best I've surfed for a long long time. 5 guys in water
Monday- 4-5 ft same joint, just as good. 2 guys out.
Tuesday-5ft same joint again
Wednesday-6ft local reef, super heavy but good. Arvo 8ft at a close by reef, very nasty but survived.
Thursday- 4ft beachy we're I grew up. As good as it gets, best I've seen for atleast 10 years. Solid 5 .5 hr sesh. Perffect
Friday- 4ft reefy, pretty much picture perfect and finished with a broken board, small price to pay.
Tommorrow- looks like bombie action up the coast a bit
Sunday- looks like the day of all days at a bombie somewhere down the coast, firing up the ski.
Monday-Hopefully I'll be alive.
Sunday- 5-6 ft local point, best I've surfed for a long long time. 5 guys in water
Monday- 4-5 ft same joint, just as good. 2 guys out.
Tuesday-5ft same joint again
Wednesday-6ft local reef, super heavy but good. Arvo 8ft at a close by reef, very nasty but survived.
Thursday- 4ft beachy we're I grew up. As good as it gets, best I've seen for atleast 10 years. Solid 5 .5 hr sesh. Perffect
Friday- 4ft reefy, pretty much picture perfect and finished with a broken board, small price to pay.
Tommorrow- looks like bombie action up the coast a bit
Sunday- looks like the day of all days at a bombie somewhere down the coast, firing up the ski.
Monday-Hopefully I'll be alive.
-
masked_surfer
- regular
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:27 pm
Freeze my balls off.
speak to paparazzi.
rock off.
paddle inside every1.
get set.
get death stare.
talk to mate who's way outa position.
dont have balls to paddle deeper than everyone again due to tension.
get a few more.
head to beachie.
catch some night time closeouts.
walk to car and see point empty.
but not working as well as before.
not the greatest surf.
but my first since 1 week and 2 days
missed this recent swell due to transport mishaps
speak to paparazzi.
rock off.
paddle inside every1.
get set.
get death stare.
talk to mate who's way outa position.
dont have balls to paddle deeper than everyone again due to tension.
get a few more.
head to beachie.
catch some night time closeouts.
walk to car and see point empty.
but not working as well as before.
not the greatest surf.
but my first since 1 week and 2 days
missed this recent swell due to transport mishaps
-
still here
- charger
- Posts: 913
- Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2005 1:07 pm
swell had dropped away sooo fast , so quite dissapointing , but it was nice and clean offshore breeze ... small close outs and a chronic rip made for constant paddling ....sh*t, .... nearly giving into the rip like the few other bods out but kept paddling against it ....then suddenly less rip as I'm now 100m into solitude and a nice channel developed but fat and slow .... then suddenly a double suck reeling off onto the sand ... then another bigger and better peeling and throwing a lip as it peeled into the channel and onto the sand . Totally rippable waves , almost a weeks worth , totally alone .
Stayed like this for 40 minutes , surfing alone on a perfect short lived bank with a subtle rip back to the take off zone , light offshores and perfect sunny skies .
It's bigger today and I know I have to look elsewhere with the crowds .
Stayed like this for 40 minutes , surfing alone on a perfect short lived bank with a subtle rip back to the take off zone , light offshores and perfect sunny skies .
It's bigger today and I know I have to look elsewhere with the crowds .
-
Nick Carroll
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Oh Dear.
My personal binge started June 10 (Sunday) early in the morning at sth Newport, heavy 6-8' leftovers after that crazy first storm Saturday when the boat was washed up in Newcastle.
SW winds, mental sandbar formed in front of the surf club. Paddled over there after a couple of hrs and got a big right and thought this is gonna be on later.
Sure enough afternoon of the 10th on a rising tide the sandbank fired with just a few of the local crew getting slabbed up 6' lefts and rights, heavy waves, the rights running to the beach through a deep semi rip bowl.
Surfed a 7'1" AB six channel in the morning and a 6'3" AB six in the arvo. This was the first day since breaking my leg/ankle that the injury hasn't hurt during a session so I'll remember it for a while.
11th, offshore and clean, easy waves in the 4-5' range, lots of people realised it was surfable and the bank got a bit crowded. Howling SW winds late. Super super fun all day.
12th, swell backed, 13th came up from sth held through 14th at around 4', fun surf on the bank and out the slowly resurgent Peak. Mucking around on 6'1"s and 6'3"s Haydenshapes.
Saturday the 16th that HUGE gale hit in the morning. I think like 20' around 10:30am for a while, unbelievable ocean. Totally unsurfable. The swell reinforced the bank's left angle, and next morning under a sw wind it fired at 6-8' for three hours, exciting to ride such a large heavy beachie at home. Riding a 6'5" AB six pintail.
Monday the swell turned dead east and thickened, heavy 6'+ lines, big open faced waves at many beaches, variable conditions with a strong sw wind turning sth every now and then. Surfed the left bank which looked better than it was but got a few good uns nonetheless on the 6'5".
Tuesday the swell backed down to 4', some Mundakan little left barrels on the bank, the weather warping severely ahead of the predicted exploding low. Weds the swell totally exploded, only 6-8' early, cloudy, sw wind, but erupting through midday at 10-12' plus and moving really fast. The ugly wind dropped early arvo and surfed sth Newport for two and half hours on the 7'1", super fun in the 8'+ range and improving all the way to dark.
Thurs it had backed off way more than expected, there were fun little waves but I barred it, too sore from all the surfing and paddleboard training which had been going on at the same time. Friday the swell had popped a bit to 6' again and surfed the 6'5" at the sth end. The surf club sandbar was long gone.
Should be surfing right now in theory 'cause it's slightly bigger again, really nice long range SSE swell and offshore, but I'm counting on something bigger and heavier tomorrow. Wouldn't have thought it possible a month ago!
My personal binge started June 10 (Sunday) early in the morning at sth Newport, heavy 6-8' leftovers after that crazy first storm Saturday when the boat was washed up in Newcastle.
SW winds, mental sandbar formed in front of the surf club. Paddled over there after a couple of hrs and got a big right and thought this is gonna be on later.
Sure enough afternoon of the 10th on a rising tide the sandbank fired with just a few of the local crew getting slabbed up 6' lefts and rights, heavy waves, the rights running to the beach through a deep semi rip bowl.
Surfed a 7'1" AB six channel in the morning and a 6'3" AB six in the arvo. This was the first day since breaking my leg/ankle that the injury hasn't hurt during a session so I'll remember it for a while.
11th, offshore and clean, easy waves in the 4-5' range, lots of people realised it was surfable and the bank got a bit crowded. Howling SW winds late. Super super fun all day.
12th, swell backed, 13th came up from sth held through 14th at around 4', fun surf on the bank and out the slowly resurgent Peak. Mucking around on 6'1"s and 6'3"s Haydenshapes.
Saturday the 16th that HUGE gale hit in the morning. I think like 20' around 10:30am for a while, unbelievable ocean. Totally unsurfable. The swell reinforced the bank's left angle, and next morning under a sw wind it fired at 6-8' for three hours, exciting to ride such a large heavy beachie at home. Riding a 6'5" AB six pintail.
Monday the swell turned dead east and thickened, heavy 6'+ lines, big open faced waves at many beaches, variable conditions with a strong sw wind turning sth every now and then. Surfed the left bank which looked better than it was but got a few good uns nonetheless on the 6'5".
Tuesday the swell backed down to 4', some Mundakan little left barrels on the bank, the weather warping severely ahead of the predicted exploding low. Weds the swell totally exploded, only 6-8' early, cloudy, sw wind, but erupting through midday at 10-12' plus and moving really fast. The ugly wind dropped early arvo and surfed sth Newport for two and half hours on the 7'1", super fun in the 8'+ range and improving all the way to dark.
Thurs it had backed off way more than expected, there were fun little waves but I barred it, too sore from all the surfing and paddleboard training which had been going on at the same time. Friday the swell had popped a bit to 6' again and surfed the 6'5" at the sth end. The surf club sandbar was long gone.
Should be surfing right now in theory 'cause it's slightly bigger again, really nice long range SSE swell and offshore, but I'm counting on something bigger and heavier tomorrow. Wouldn't have thought it possible a month ago!
-
bendoor
sounds like a truly magical week or so of surfing! you guys on the east coast have been blessed lately after your flat spell the other month. huey has been listening to your prayers.
meanwhile it's just average down here again...I'm patiently waiting for a decent swell and not those bloody SE winds!!! at least it's 2-3ft today and offshore
meanwhile it's just average down here again...I'm patiently waiting for a decent swell and not those bloody SE winds!!! at least it's 2-3ft today and offshore
-
masked_surfer
- regular
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:27 pm
Had a nice sesh today at superbank/wedge - dy point , found myself (along with a bunch of other people ) with 4-5 ft offshore waves.
Was out till 12 then forced to go in due to soccer
but was still late as that one last wave turned into being 5 last waves.
Last wave of the day went for one i had no hope on without a car in the world, the more im washed in the better i figured, WRONG! snap, there goes my leash, bang, theres a rock ... now i get to swim in tried bodysurfing some white was but was just to big and gobbled me up.
, found myself (along with a bunch of other people ) with 4-5 ft offshore waves.Was out till 12 then forced to go in due to soccer
but was still late as that one last wave turned into being 5 last waves. Last wave of the day went for one i had no hope on without a car in the world, the more im washed in the better i figured, WRONG! snap, there goes my leash, bang, theres a rock ... now i get to swim in
tried bodysurfing some white was but was just to big and gobbled me up.-
mustkillmulloway
- Owl status
- Posts: 4893
- Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2006 9:15 pm
- Location: i live in a pineapple under the sea
-
dUg
- barnacle
- Posts: 1858
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:22 am
- Location: sitting in my car waiting for someone else to paddle out first
Hmmm... pretty typical South Coast winter's day really, light offshore Northerlies, clean 3' waves that were good fun but hardly memorable. Morning temperature at Victor was 1°C at 7am, but we were wimps and waited until 8:30am to paddle out. By then it had warmed up to around 4°C. 
http://www.bom.gov.au/products/IDS65027 ... 4677.shtml
http://www.bom.gov.au/products/IDS65027 ... 4677.shtml
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 135 guests