Roy Stewart's Makaha voted surfboard of the year 2010 !

[Roy_Stewart]

Regarding education I have a degree in Philosphy and English, and also served my time as an apprentice.

I too have & use degree of Philosophy & English.

Right , let's stage a coup !

[Roy_Stewart]

Logged in, banged on "General surf discussion", and couldn't help but notice the "Roy... waffle..." thread, and the "Duck diving technique" threads side by side. This got me to wondering.....

Roy, when you are surfing one of your 14ft plus boards in triple overhead conditions, could you please provide details of your duck diving technique when caught inside.

The technique is to roll under, it works as well as duck diving although it sometimes takes a bit more energy.

For successful rolling under longboards need to be reasonably heavy, have rail cross sections which are able to be gripped strongly ( i.e. lowish volume, not like an SUP ) and not too much thickness.

Rolling under must be done from the middle area of the board or behind the middle,not the nose, doing it from the nose is a dangerous method and can lead to cartwheeling.

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[Roy_Stewart]

Right , let's stage a coup !

I'm practicing my pigeon noises now.

Please keep it up until they capitulate, I'll get the wheelbarrow.

[bumfluff]

Rolling under must be done from the middle area of the board or behind the middle,not the nose, doing it from the nose is a dangerous method and can lead to cartwheeling.

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Do you have first hand experience at this and if so could you describe in detail what happened? Pics would be great if available.

Purely for educational purposes - obviuosly

[Roy_Stewart]

Rolling under must be done from the middle area of the board or behind the middle,not the nose, doing it from the nose is a dangerous method and can lead to cartwheeling.

.

Do you have first hand experience at this and if so could you describe in detail what happened? Pics would be great if available.

Purely for educational purposes - obviuosly

Yes I do have first hand experience, though managed to hang on to the board.

No pictures available though, it's only happened twice.

In bigger waves when rolling while going up the unroken face it's best to grab the board behind the centre and thrust it forwards as one rolls so that it punches through the lip, the nose drops down the back of the wave and pulls one through the wave.

[offshore1]

sure you couldn't just duckdive it roy?

[Grooter]

sure you couldn't just duckdive it roy?

[bumfluff]

In bigger waves when rolling while going up the unroken face it's best to grab the board behind the centre and thrust it forwards as one rolls so that it punches through the lip, the nose drops down the back of the wave and pulls one through the wave.

This would seem pretty obvious to me. But I have the most trouble rolling on broken waves. Any specific technique to that Roy?

[Trev]

Logged in, banged on "General surf discussion", and couldn't help but notice the "Roy... waffle..." thread, and the "Duck diving technique" threads side by side. This got me to wondering.....

Roy, when you are surfing one of your 14ft plus boards in triple overhead conditions, could you please provide details of your duck diving technique when caught inside.

Thank you.

Woolly, you are a first class shit stirrer.
You've started him off again on his crap technique.

[Roy_Stewart]

In bigger waves when rolling while going up the unroken face it's best to grab the board behind the centre and thrust it forwards as one rolls so that it punches through the lip, the nose drops down the back of the wave and pulls one through the wave.

This would seem pretty obvious to me. But I have the most trouble rolling on broken waves. Any specific technique to that Roy?

1) Don't grab on to the board with the legs as the horizontal bodily position will allow the board and rider to be pushed backwards, this can be followed by the tail digging in and the board flipping up vertically, and possibly cartwheeling.

2) Try to keep the body vertical under the board so that it will act as a sea anchor. Extending the arms high above the head increases the sea anchor effect but reduces grip strength. Extending the arms won't work if the board is too light as the board just gets lifted into the air

3) If the wave breaks very hard then the board can be pulled down on to the head, this increases the grip on the board a lot, I do this wth a helmet though, so I'm not sure how it works on the unprotected head.

4) Timing helps, rolling too soon is the main thing to avoid.

If the problem is that the wave is getting under the nose and ripping the board out of your hands then you are either holding on too close to the nose, or the board is too light. Some nose rocker helps as it keeps the nose down when the board is inverted.

[Kunji]

The case against The Thing

- Can't duckdive
- Can't get barreled
- Can't ride large waves
- Kill radius of 200m
- Too expensive
- Decimating the Fiordland National Park

Any more?

[Roy_Stewart]

sure you couldn't just duckdive it roy?

Absolutely sure

[otway1949]

Let's celebrate Passover and passover this award as it's now 2011.

[channels]

I have to give him props if he does take "THAT THING out in solid waves. without a legrope too.

Pics or it didn't happen!

[Roy_Stewart]

The case against The Thing

- Can't duckdive
- Can't get barreled
- Can't ride large waves
- Kill radius of 200m
- Too expensive
- Decimating the Fiordland National Park

Any more?

Incorrect:

- Can roll under if the pilot is competent ( this excludes most surfers )

- Excellent in the barrel

-Excellent in big waves

- An excellent safety record so far.

Yarning with one of my ex arch enemies ( Eric, now quite a good friend ) recently he said: " When you paddled out on your 12 footer with no leash when it was big we all used to leave the water and go and sit in our cars expecting to see carnage, but you'd never fall off "

Oh and you are wrong about the wood, most of it's been grown locally in people's backyards ( including mine ) or on small farm lots.

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[Roy_Stewart]

Pics or it didn't happen!

You are philosophically, logically and factually incorrect.

[Roy_Stewart]

I have to give him props if he does take "THAT THING out in solid waves. without a legrope too.

It's been a while but there have been many years where I'd go out in everything, regardless of size, shape, or wind direction, always without a leash, in bigger waves usually on a 12 footer, sometimes a 9 or 10 footer, sometimes a 13'9".

I'm nearly road legal again so am looking forward to getting back into it, small to medium at first though.