RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Surfed 56th day in row. Don’t have a serious job as surfing is my life, it really is. Don’t have a wife, she just got in the way. Don’t have friends, unless they surf and then they are just competition for the waves, so I have no friends.

57th day. Cannot wait.

Pants wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 28, 2023 9:46 am

Surfed 56th day in row. Don’t have a serious job as surfing is my life, it really is. Don’t have a wife, she just got in the way. Don’t have friends, unless they surf and then they are just competition for the waves, so I have no friends.

57th day. Cannot wait.

Bet you eat an all meat diet.

Pants, it's gotta be two sessions a day if you're serious

Way to go, Pants.
I think I’m on one of my longest ever runs of consistently surfing.
Bondi has had pretty okay surf now for about 4-5 months.
Averaging 5 days a week.
A couple of years ago I was usually going to The Bra and hadn’t surfed Bondi in 6 months due to epic crap banks.

I no longer can afford the time to vacate my bowels in a designated bathroom. I now just crap in my board shorts. I used to wear a wet suit however, I felt like there was a superficial layer between my soul and nature. I now surf with crap in my pants, as nature and the Almighty had intended.

Definitely if the surf is big.

The Kookocracy. There was a surf writer who used to frequent these pages who bemoaned the popularity of surfing and claimed he “hated kooks”. Now, said journalist also made his living selling advertising space in mags to kooks and now works for an offshoot of Rupert Murdoch. Let’s call him a guilty business Kook, for now at least.

The question is, has surfing evolved or (devolved) into an enjoyable past time and those grumbling old men who have an incredibly narrow scope of existence now accepted that such dedication, at an Asperger’s level, is a big waste of time?

It's always been an enjoyable past-time- thats why people do it, innit.

Same as every other human endeavour, some people do it more and have talent and get good at it- most don't.

Golf is no different.

In fact golf wankers are way more hard-core than surf wankers.

Try doing a go slow on a golf course Sat morning and see the level of course rage that ensues.

https://7news.com.au/video/news/wild-sc ... 6273132112

Pants wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 29, 2023 9:52 am

The Kookocracy. There was a surf writer who used to frequent these pages who bemoaned the popularity of surfing and claimed he “hated kooks”. Now, said journalist also made his living selling advertising space in mags to kooks and now works for an offshoot of Rupert Murdoch. Let’s call him a guilty business Kook, for now at least.

The question is, has surfing evolved or (devolved) into an enjoyable past time and those grumbling old men who have an incredibly narrow scope of existence now accepted that such dedication, at an Asperger’s level, is a big waste of time?

Interesting observation Pants. A quick paddle out at Bondi should clear up any confusion on this topic.

The same journo also published books on how to surf, he may hate kooks, but he doesn't have a problem with accumulating their hard earned.

I don’t think Surfline is an offshoot of Rupert Murdoch.

One of his old stooges owns it. Stop sucking dick for a minute and follow the conversation.

You bullshitting. No thanks.

In any event, surfing has lost its romantic edge. Did the industry contrive this to sell more stuff. Probably. Have the well-being crew and Byron murfer types taken the opportunity to implement soft edge’s in the name of Instagram. No doubt.

However, I see surfing sitting back and enjoying being fucked in its fat wobbly white arse. It needs to be dismissed as a sport like sailing is by the Captain who traverses the Atlantic Ocean. Leather skinned water logged disciples need to reclaim back their emotional real estate stolen by the kooks in a chance pandemic. It’s time.

“Sink all coffins and all hearses to one common pool! and since neither can be mine, let me then tow to pieces, while still chasing thee, though tied to thee, thou damned whale! Thus, I give up the spear!”

That was quite a build-up just to get to that quote.

v. enjoyable though.

It's a bit hysterical to claim anyone has stolen the "emotional real estate".

Ripcurl has a cheesy social media list of 5 things all surfers experience aimed squarely at complete novices. Such things as Falling Off, Missing A Wave, Being Scared, Waiting For A Wave and The Exhilaration Of Catching A Wave. I don’t think they had being told to fcuk off, getting dropped in on, snaked or run over.

Anyone who thinks sailing isn't a sport doesn't know too much about sailing.

It’s a sport. That’s the point. Dismissed by professional seaman who make their lively-hood steering tankers as big as planets through the eye of a needle. Not wearing boat shoes and looking like a Conde Naste advertisement.