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Where did you surf today ?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Nice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.
Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.
Approached each wave the same.
A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.
Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.
Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.
Approached each wave the same.
A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.
Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
No meat and three veg here the last coupla days. Yesterday just all feeling a bit Hawaiian, smooth late drops, deep connective turns on the big six, epic show-pony "down carves" with the whole drop knee shtick going, changing up the lines, letting the board manhandle the wave, then riding into sand death pits and peaks on the inside, running around for the paddle back, and cheering on a couple of the young crew who came out a bit tentative then got stuck in when they realised they could. You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.
Then today more feeling the ball bearings of the ten channel on the soft clean faces, turning up into the pocket and standing back in the top turn, slithering though short arc cutties close to the white water, and weighting the centre concave/channel meeting point in half-barrel runs across the now more exposed sandbar. I wouldn't wanna ride that board every day but some days, ooo.
Then today more feeling the ball bearings of the ten channel on the soft clean faces, turning up into the pocket and standing back in the top turn, slithering though short arc cutties close to the white water, and weighting the centre concave/channel meeting point in half-barrel runs across the now more exposed sandbar. I wouldn't wanna ride that board every day but some days, ooo.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I am fccckn beating me chest here brother. We share the same philosophies.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Well I didn’t get out yesterday, was child minding. And today it was a quick dash to cronulla point, all I had time for. And as I’ve said before, it’s a fairly boring wave aside from the first section.
So I tend to take the meat and three veg approach on it. Today
For me was a real Kia Carnival and Dad jeans from Lowes type of session
So I tend to take the meat and three veg approach on it. Today
For me was a real Kia Carnival and Dad jeans from Lowes type of session
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Nick, in all sincerity, I love having you around. I’m not much into poetry, but I really enjoy the way you describe your surfing.Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 4:54 pmNo meat and three veg here the last coupla days. Yesterday just all feeling a bit Hawaiian, smooth late drops, deep connective turns on the big six, epic show-pony "down carves" with the whole drop knee shtick going, changing up the lines, letting the board manhandle the wave, then riding into sand death pits and peaks on the inside, running around for the paddle back, and cheering on a couple of the young crew who came out a bit tentative then got stuck in when they realised they could. You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.
Then today more feeling the ball bearings of the ten channel on the soft clean faces, turning up into the pocket and standing back in the top turn, slithering though short arc cutties close to the white water, and weighting the centre concave/channel meeting point in half-barrel runs across the now more exposed sandbar. I wouldn't wanna ride that board every day but some days, ooo.
I noticed I’ve been part of these forums for over ten years the other day and I’d have to say it’s the more eloquent men like yourself that keep me coming back.
Thank you.
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Thanks Jet! I really pay attention when I'm in the water.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Thanks Jet, you were probably including me in that post too.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
Re: Where did you surf today ?
What time were you there man? I was at the island but came through the point for one on the way in about 9am.Hatchnam wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 1:33 pmNice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.
Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.
Approached each wave the same.
A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.
Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.
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BA (on Realsurf) wrote: It's the wild west with a bit more homo-eroticism.
- crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
loofy is in premium form here this afternoon, ladies and gentlemen
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Nah, you’re one of the swines that keep me amused...which keeps me coming back for a different reason.
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
There at around 11-1pm. I very nearly paddled out at Wanda/greenhills. It looked solid and bigger than double overhead. Some real bombs. But wind was into it, lots of shutdown sections, and water moving around and no channelKunji wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:27 pmWhat time were you there man? I was at the island but came through the point for one on the way in about 9am.Hatchnam wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 1:33 pmNice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.
Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.
Approached each wave the same.
A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.
Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Sounds like too much hard work for little reward.
I need to surf the beachies more.
I realised how unfit (how lazy i’ve become) i was the other day when i tried getting out at north Narrabeen. Spending too much time at the point really has a negative impact on fitness and duck diving skills...
Been out on the PCC single much lately Iggs?
I need to surf the beachies more.
I realised how unfit (how lazy i’ve become) i was the other day when i tried getting out at north Narrabeen. Spending too much time at the point really has a negative impact on fitness and duck diving skills...
Been out on the PCC single much lately Iggs?
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yeah I surf that board quite a lot. Anything from clean chest high beachbreak peelers up to solid six foot reefs/point. Haven’t had it out at voodoo yet, but had plenty sessions at sandon, boneyards, windang, and era point.JET01 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:01 pmSounds like too much hard work for little reward.
I need to surf the beachies more.
I realised how unfit (how lazy i’ve become) i was the other day when i tried getting out at north Narrabeen. Spending too much time at the point really has a negative impact on fitness and duck diving skills...
Been out on the PCC single much lately Iggs?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Too scared then?Hatchnam wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:56 pmThere at around 11-1pm. I very nearly paddled out at Wanda/greenhills. It looked solid and bigger than double overhead. Some real bombs. But wind was into it, lots of shutdown sections, and water moving around and no channelKunji wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:27 pmWhat time were you there man? I was at the island but came through the point for one on the way in about 9am.Hatchnam wrote: ↑Tue Jul 10, 2018 1:33 pmNice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.
Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.
Approached each wave the same.
A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.
Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.
You need loofy to give ya some small wave training
Erase.
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