Just general surfing stuff
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- marauding mullet
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Big wild and windy in J-bay today
https://youtu.be/Nx-I0-HeM9c?si=HTNb1RuFueA2wZb8
https://youtu.be/Nx-I0-HeM9c?si=HTNb1RuFueA2wZb8
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Well if there was ever a swell to put Bruce Brown’s bullshitting to the test, that was it
“They told us of days when the surf broke big out by the end of the cape. Seven miles further out and rolled all the way in to where we were surfing. Can you imagine riding a 15 foot wave, shaped like this for 7 miles?”
“They told us of days when the surf broke big out by the end of the cape. Seven miles further out and rolled all the way in to where we were surfing. Can you imagine riding a 15 foot wave, shaped like this for 7 miles?”
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I’m sure Bruce Brown did gild the lily a lot but he could also only know what locals told him. But they reckon the sandbanks there have changed a lot from when the shore was primarily coastal dunes to now heavy coastal development.
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
He said later in Endless Summer 11 that in reality they didn’t know Cape St Francis hardly ever broke that good and now with houses there the dunes make it worse. However J Bay was the real deal.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I didn't know he made eleven endless summer movies.
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
You really missed it.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Shoulda been here yesterday.
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
The day before yesterday, actually.
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Some interesting EPS discussion on the surf splendour podcast with Ellis Ericson.
Starts about 39.45 in.
Starts about 39.45 in.
- steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
whats the gist of it?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
These seem to be getting a fair bit of promotion on social media ...
Quobba Fins from WA.
https://quobbafins.com
Quobba Fins from WA.
https://quobbafins.com
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
For Steve
-Likes the feel once you get used to it.
-can cut your own rockers and replicate them
-they come in big blocks that you use a Hotwire to cut the blanks out
-can get rockers that may not be available from the PU moulds
-got into it because Greenough was into it
-can recycle all what’s not used if you do
it properly
-glasses them 6x4 top and bottom
-stringerless because putting in a stringer is extra work
-broken two boards in 7 or so years since he’s been riding solely eps, in heavy waves he reckons he would have snapped his PUs in anyway.
-Likes the feel once you get used to it.
-can cut your own rockers and replicate them
-they come in big blocks that you use a Hotwire to cut the blanks out
-can get rockers that may not be available from the PU moulds
-got into it because Greenough was into it
-can recycle all what’s not used if you do
it properly
-glasses them 6x4 top and bottom
-stringerless because putting in a stringer is extra work
-broken two boards in 7 or so years since he’s been riding solely eps, in heavy waves he reckons he would have snapped his PUs in anyway.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
yep, he told me most of that at Kidmans place.
He has this cool little gadget to hot-wire blanks.
He has this cool little gadget to hot-wire blanks.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Just general surfing stuff
A jult from the past, I recall them in WA about 20-30 years ago. Looked at them, never knew anyone who tried them.Yuke Hunt wrote: ↑Mon Sep 25, 2023 8:50 pmThese seem to be getting a fair bit of promotion on social media ...
Quobba Fins from WA.
https://quobbafins.com
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Haydenshapes factory in Mona Vale has gone up in flames.
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