Just general surfing stuff
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
got it. He's a goofy foot. Somehow the film on YouTube is shot the other way
Re: Just general surfing stuff
I know that's what you were after but I have a feeling everyone in here would have noticed that
He does have a great style.
He does have a great style.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
That’s an underestimate I reckon. There’ll be a gap between people who can barely swim and people who are willing to admit it.Thud wrote: ↑Wed Sep 19, 2018 1:48 pmhttps://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet- ... g-drowning
20% of surfers self report that they cannot or are weak swimmers in the surf. Must be a large foreign contingent I'm guessing or older surfers who don't live near the water who dabble now and again.
There’s probably also a gap betweeen the surfers at most patrolled beaches and those at unpatrolled locations.
Current biggest cause of death while surfing worldwide? Heart attack.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Rob’s one of my favourite all-time surfers.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
He flows and connects effortlessly without all the ugly tic-tac two-step stuff.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Speaking of surfers who are weak swimmers, Rob Machado.
As reported by Chas Smith in Beach Grit.
As reported by Chas Smith in Beach Grit.
The conversation turned, slightly, toward having enough general sense to be able to survive. Rob said, “I don’t even know how to swim but if you drop me at second reef Pipe I’m sure I’ll figure out how to get to the beach.”
“Really?” I responded “You really don’t know how to swim?”
“I mean kind of…” he said, “…but not well at all.”
And how’s that. Rob Machado can’t swim well. He is a Pipeline Master.
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Before legropes everyone was fitter. A lot of quality breaks like Lennox didn't have many takers either.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
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- Harry the Hat
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Some things probably in Rob's favour
Excellent lung capacity
Can float
Understands currents
Fitness
Calm demeanour
Resting heart rate of about 10 b.p.m.
Excellent lung capacity
Can float
Understands currents
Fitness
Calm demeanour
Resting heart rate of about 10 b.p.m.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Very good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.
https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/
https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/
Re: Just general surfing stuff
"Very good" You reckon? They tried to write it as though Florence is some kind of fccckn mythical figure. Boring as batshit.foamy wrote: ↑Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:26 amVery good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.
https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
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- charger
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Then there is the question are flow hives ethical, alot of beekeepers think you could be reprograming the bee not to make the honeycombs.Drailed wrote: ↑Fri Sep 21, 2018 11:23 am"Very good" You reckon? They tried to write it as though Florence is some kind of fccckn mythical figure. Boring as batshit.foamy wrote: ↑Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:26 amVery good article by Sean Doherty about JJF and a quick trip to King Island with Rasta.
https://www.surfer.com/features/king-is ... e-profile/
- PeepeelaPew
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
Nick, much to do with Salt in the Blood?
On National Geo Channel 8.30 Monday, I think
On National Geo Channel 8.30 Monday, I think
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
Nothing. I dunno anything about it.
Re: Just general surfing stuff
"Salt In The Blood, a short film documenting parts of Tom Carrolls life and how the exhibition came to be pulled together was screened at the launch of the Torquay exhibition. Within the first few minutes of the film I was welling up as Tom's words of being embraced by the ocean when times were tough struck a nerve with me. It is a beautiful short film that surfers, photographers and anyone with an appreciation for creative freedom will enjoy."
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Just general surfing stuff
New book about Keith Paul out. Hope it's a good read. One smooth surfer.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
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