William Finnegan did an awesome job of it.Nick Carroll wrote: I feel like I could write a book based on virtually nothing other than going for surfs. Not some cheesy allegorical thing either, just actual surfs, the things that happen during surfs. Fcuk! I'm gonna have a crack at that.
Where did you surf today ?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Nick was talking about writing a book like that
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
The trouble would be......I imagine.....that one persons narrative would not necessarily be easy to relate to by other lesser beings. Nick used to write well about the act of surfing.....but I rarely understood a lot of his descriptions of how boards went.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
I was talking to an ex pro skater a while back. Still skating for fun at Bondi.
But his girlfriend was mad at him because, having rooted his way across North America for years on the pro tour, he had achieved tachyphylaxis or something, he had become quite ambivalent about sex.
But his girlfriend was mad at him because, having rooted his way across North America for years on the pro tour, he had achieved tachyphylaxis or something, he had become quite ambivalent about sex.
Erase.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I tried to touch on it in the book i wrote last year. The character, Neptune, quit the tour because he found competition surfing 'soulless' and equates it to a job, although it isn't the real reason. He was based on a guy i knew growing up who was a fantastic surfer, but struggled with the professional surfing scene outside of the water.
Personally, I've always found the whole 'free surfer' sponsored thing really interesting. I once watched a clip that kind of showed a 'day in the life of Joel Tudor'. He drops his kid off to school, surfs, does some jujitsu, surfs, picks his kid up, surfs... it was quite unsettling how much he surfed.
You're right Steve. While i'm sure they get jazzed about great waves and exotic locations, there is something about the rest of us, who work, raise children, pay taxes and sometimes fight for waves and time in the water. When we get that epic wave, as Beerfan said, it stays with you. I know for me, personally, when i'm in the grind and just trying to get through the week, those 'epic' snapshots are often the things i think about. Then i think about the next session i'll get and hope there will be another snapshot to lock in. Because Rasta and co have them consistently and are just part of what they do - there must be a difference.
That said, i think the free surfing sponsored guys are probably happier than most game show hosts.
Personally, I've always found the whole 'free surfer' sponsored thing really interesting. I once watched a clip that kind of showed a 'day in the life of Joel Tudor'. He drops his kid off to school, surfs, does some jujitsu, surfs, picks his kid up, surfs... it was quite unsettling how much he surfed.
You're right Steve. While i'm sure they get jazzed about great waves and exotic locations, there is something about the rest of us, who work, raise children, pay taxes and sometimes fight for waves and time in the water. When we get that epic wave, as Beerfan said, it stays with you. I know for me, personally, when i'm in the grind and just trying to get through the week, those 'epic' snapshots are often the things i think about. Then i think about the next session i'll get and hope there will be another snapshot to lock in. Because Rasta and co have them consistently and are just part of what they do - there must be a difference.
That said, i think the free surfing sponsored guys are probably happier than most game show hosts.
Hatchnam wrote:
Filthy little hipster.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
What about a professional porn star as an analogy?
Casanova I suppose could have been loosely classified as a Rasta style soul sex practitioner.
Casanova I suppose could have been loosely classified as a Rasta style soul sex practitioner.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Then there are the two bit gigilos and of course lonely idle wankery.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yes, I can see parallels aplenty.
The analogy is just getting better.
The analogy is just getting better.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
here's an analogy. I have always been a keen cyclist. A few years ago I worked 12 months as a bike courier. I was fast when I started but after a few months I was stupid fast, a pro essentially. But cycling morphed from a pastime into a job and my office was my handlebars.
After reaching that level, my approach to cycling has never been the same.
I think once your passion becomes your job, a little bit of stoke dies.
After reaching that level, my approach to cycling has never been the same.
I think once your passion becomes your job, a little bit of stoke dies.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yeah, but would you give up a little Stoke in exchange for surfing Indo perfection for months a year, while getting paid big $$$$ and not having to work a normal job?
Bloody hell lol
Bloody hell lol
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Comparing being a bike courier to a free surfer such as Rasta is a piss poor analogy.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Absolutely. Another example for me was when I was trying to get a start as a journalist. I was a live music freak so started reviewing bands for the street press to get my name in print. I soon realised there's a huge difference going to a gig for fun and going to do a job (of sorts).Biggun wrote:
I think once your passion becomes your job, a little bit of stoke dies.
andy2476 wrote:
Ricky gets my vote. I hate undercover tards.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
That post proved one thing though. That alexissanchez isn't Andy. If it were, there'd have been a following bout of dick waving about premium cycling equipment and shortest cycle timesDrailed wrote:Comparing being a bike courier to a free surfer such as Rasta is a piss poor analogy.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
If we had to write a 300 word review after every time we surfed, we'd all give it away.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
This is interesting. My other love, as many of you know, is motor sport. In particular, rallying. During my 20's and 30's I drove plenty of rallies. Along the way, to offset some of the costs I started writing for specialist magazines and a Brisbane Sunday paper. (about 500 words in the Sun. Up to 3 or 4 times that in magazines. Sometimes 3 or 4 stories about the same event. Which had to look and sound different.
I have to say I never felt I lost any enjoyment in competing while I was doing this.
But, to be fair, it wasn't a full time job. It provided about 25% of my annual income.
I have to say I never felt I lost any enjoyment in competing while I was doing this.
But, to be fair, it wasn't a full time job. It provided about 25% of my annual income.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
When the real analogy would be with being a sales rep for a middle ranking range of surf related merchandise.Hatchnam wrote:That post proved one thing though. That alexissanchez isn't Andy. If it were, there'd have been a following bout of dick waving about premium cycling equipment and shortest cycle timesDrailed wrote:Comparing being a bike courier to a free surfer such as Rasta is a piss poor analogy.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Surfed DY - chilled compared to yesterday
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Narragansett Town Beach!
"We're all equal before a wave." - Laird Hamilton
Re: Where did you surf today ?
From where it's situated, it looks like it'd need a hurricane to kick it into gear ?
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