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Roy_Stewart
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by Roy_Stewart » Tue Dec 02, 2014 7:04 pm
MrMik wrote:
This sounds like a ride report by someone who is not familiar with the Original Gullwing fin. It does therefore not support the claim that the BLEF improves the Gullwing fin.
That's right, but it supports the idea that the Warp Drive Gull Wing is preferred by the rider to the True Ames Squirrell cutaway and a standard 'Dolphin' type longboard fin.
It's good the rider reports in detail about the conditions, but all information about the board used is lacking.
A 9 footer, I have a picture of it somewhere.
.
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MrMik
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by MrMik » Fri Dec 26, 2014 5:37 pm
Hi Roy,
I can't be bothered to grace the idiots on Swellinfo with a reply, or to wade through the tons of moronic posts they produce.
So, I ask here: What did the inventor of the SF fin box have in mind? What is that design feature that will allow you to make the fins fit better?
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Roy_Stewart
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by Roy_Stewart » Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:43 am
Hi Mik,
The box is supposed to use an 'interference fit' rather than relying on the fin base contacting the bottom of the box. Most fin makers don't use the interference fit. Here's the info from Jim Phillips on the jamboards forum:
"the sheets go in to a thickness sander set to 385 thousandths, keeps them at a std., so that the milling for the base does NOT need to be changed from batch to batch. Also the mill for the base puts a 2 degree taper in so that the fin gets tighter in the channel as it is snugged down by the tab screw, final dims. for the base is .375"
We are able to use an interference fit without making the tab into a wedge as our singles are all slightly wider than the box, allowing the step between the tab and the fin to provide the interference.
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MrMik
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by MrMik » Wed Jan 07, 2015 3:36 pm
Hi Steve, how did the fin testing go?
I've asked Roy to print a Gullwing fin without BLEF, in order to allow assessment of the BLEF-effect (independent of the lighter weight and different foil compared to an original McCoy Gullwing fin).
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Roy_Stewart
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by Roy_Stewart » Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:34 am
No way... Rarick is a straight up guy!
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huie
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by huie » Sun Jan 11, 2015 3:39 pm
Roy Stuart
1 day ago
Rarick moved in on a community board tour I had running and did his very best to stuff it up... all with 'Aloha' of course. I was warned not to trust him, didn't listen sucked in by the smooth tongue.
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Roy_Stewart
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by Roy_Stewart » Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:07 pm
huie wrote:
Last edited by huie on Sat Jan 10, 2015 5:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
ahh ok leave you to your fin printing
I'm not sure why you added that comment, spell it out if you like I read on the lines not between them.
Just to clarify I was being sarcastic when I wrote that 'Rarick is a straight up guy'.
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Roy_Stewart
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by Roy_Stewart » Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:24 am
Hi Dave,
The base depth is designed for Australian boxes, which are 2.5mm deeper than the US ones. We have redrawn the base depth to be 2,5mm shallower as this will fit both box types (US riders have been having to sand a bit off the base).
The real issue here though is that the shaper has taken what looks like about 5mm off the top of the box at the rear and 2.5mm off the front. It would have been better if he'd removed the material from the bottom of the box prior to installation. It's a hassle as the box is designed to be a certain height.
So, the solution is to print another fin ( this will have less tab depth below the pin) and do a pin position which is custom for your box. I'll need to know exactly how much of the tab is sticking out at the rear end of the box.
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MrMik
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by MrMik » Wed Jan 14, 2015 8:26 am
Roy_Stewart wrote:
...
...
The real issue here though is that the shaper has taken what looks like about 5mm off the top of the box at the rear and 2.5mm off the front. It would have been better if he'd removed the material from the bottom of the box prior to installation. It's a hassle as the box is designed to be a certain height.
...
...
I don't understand how this could possibly help. Removing material from the bottom (closed) side of the fin box could help if the tail thickness is thinner than the thickness of the box. But the box would then still not match the tail rocker and at least 2.5mm would need to be removed at the top rear.
In short, one could only remove that portion from the top of the box that would otherwise be removed from the bottom in the middle, but not all of what gets removed from either end.
Apart from this, is this likely the cause of the humming of the fin? I doubt it.
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MrMik
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by MrMik » Wed Jan 14, 2015 8:43 am
Roy_Stewart wrote:
Best to start with the fin about an inch further back than a regular fin, I think Steve had his a bit too far forward, it still went well for him though.
How about the placement for the GullWhale fin? An inch back from the starting position recommended for the original Gullwing fin would pretty much be at the very end of the fin box. Or does this only apply to the Spitfire type fins?
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Beanpole
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by Beanpole » Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:15 am
See, never get this problem with cheap pop outs. Or plugs
These shapers, eh.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
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el rancho
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by el rancho » Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:38 am
measure the depth of the fin box and then the depth of Roy's fin before you do anything
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spork
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by spork » Wed Jan 14, 2015 12:32 pm
Iv had trouble with fin hum in the past, its usually the foil being asymmetric and the different pressure on each side is causing oscillations in the fin.
When it gets to this level of self important stupidity I lose interest.
Roy Stewart
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Beanpole
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by Beanpole » Wed Jan 14, 2015 1:27 pm
Spose it's obvious to point out that wobbliness contributes to humming. Had a carbon fibre fin in this Taka Mal I used to have. It used to hum a merry tune. Particularly on larger waves. A lot of fins need a bit of plastic down the side to firm them up. I use take away food lids.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?