winter fourteen
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- petulance
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: winter fourteen
^^^
What, those points are better than Bondi and Bronte?
What, those points are better than Bondi and Bronte?
smnmntll wrote: She's also moderately hot, with a bit of that petulance-approved titless starved whippet look about her but still pretty decent.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: winter fourteen
Yeah you do get these little moments in the middle of the sheer mayhem that keep you coming back for more. But I tell yer... This swell has been some of the thickest crowds I've ever seen. I've been literally scared at times with the amount of fibreglass coming my way.Hatchnam wrote:i need to get back up there again more often. this once a year family trip stuff aint cutting it. i spent 20+ years surfing them points and i sincerely took it for granted how good they can be.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
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Re: winter fourteen
There were two guys out at the Ox yesterday arvo. Howling W winds. 6-8ft of ESE swell. It looked insane, but I had no juice in the tank for the paddle.
http://www.thefreeridevoice.com/2014/08 ... log-aug28/
http://www.thefreeridevoice.com/2014/08 ... log-aug28/
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: winter fourteen
Mate. I'd be lucky surf those spots once every 2 years.petulance wrote:^^^
What, those points are better than Bondi and Bronte?
But the points are mind-bendingly perfect. They're surreal. Easy waves to surf that lend themselves to a higher level of performance, by default. On the points up there, your challenges are the sweep, the paddle, and the crowds, and not the actual 'waves'. Whereas down here, your bigger challenges are the sheer criticality and dynamics of the waves themselves.
- el rancho
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Re: winter fourteen
kirra is not an 'easy' wave to surf when its on. sometimes you get a fatter section that lets you in, but mostly you gotta fly over the ledge and get a rail in fast. plus when you get eaten on the sandbar you really get eaten. I snapped a fin out the other day, I dove away from my board yet it was so violent it still ended up smashing into my foot and that was that.
plus some of the beach breaks on the far northern coast are among the heaviest and challenging you'll find.
plus some of the beach breaks on the far northern coast are among the heaviest and challenging you'll find.
Re: winter fourteen
I get what ur saying but based on 20 yrs up there and 10 yrs down here I disagree.
Sure, Kirra can be razor fast and challenging. But it's a lot more predictable and manageable than some of the shifty uneven raw and full volumed waves down here.
And some of the beachies down here will easy hold a legit 8ft + wave, come out of deeper water and then break like a bombora but at high speed and full density.
There's good and bad with both. But if I had a choice at the very moment with the conditions at present, I'd pick up north.
Sure, Kirra can be razor fast and challenging. But it's a lot more predictable and manageable than some of the shifty uneven raw and full volumed waves down here.
And some of the beachies down here will easy hold a legit 8ft + wave, come out of deeper water and then break like a bombora but at high speed and full density.
There's good and bad with both. But if I had a choice at the very moment with the conditions at present, I'd pick up north.
- crabmeat thompson
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Re: winter fourteen
kirra's predictability is a little misguided, imo. I mean when it's rifling down the line like it's mechanical it looks predictable and easy, the sun's out its all a bit idyllic ...
... but it's a heavy wave. I remember a run of swell in about 2007 where I snapped all 4 of my boards in two days and I was surfing super conservatively. It felt like every wipeout you'd snap a board. I remember being down about it, then I learned between joel and mick they'd snapped 15+ boards during that same swell.
I remember kalani robb and Machado back in the early 2000's during a mackingly thick 6-8ft swell... one of the last true kirra swells ... they were just staring at kirra for hours, not game to paddle in it. Not knowing if they could make the drops on their backhands. They'd just watched kelly get buckled on a super thick one and have to swim back in, and they said 'fcuk that' and went back to their hotel.
on scale of 10 for difficulty, I'd give kirra an 7-7.5 at 4-6ft but over 6ft it's 9. easy.
... but it's a heavy wave. I remember a run of swell in about 2007 where I snapped all 4 of my boards in two days and I was surfing super conservatively. It felt like every wipeout you'd snap a board. I remember being down about it, then I learned between joel and mick they'd snapped 15+ boards during that same swell.
I remember kalani robb and Machado back in the early 2000's during a mackingly thick 6-8ft swell... one of the last true kirra swells ... they were just staring at kirra for hours, not game to paddle in it. Not knowing if they could make the drops on their backhands. They'd just watched kelly get buckled on a super thick one and have to swim back in, and they said 'fcuk that' and went back to their hotel.
on scale of 10 for difficulty, I'd give kirra an 7-7.5 at 4-6ft but over 6ft it's 9. easy.
Re: winter fourteen
Probably one of the worse hidings I've had was at double overhead Kirra. Late take off, pulled in deep, put the end section of the tube pinched off before I could squeeze out. Then cartwheeled and driven down flat onto the sandbank and got absolutely butchered.
- petulance
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Re: winter fourteen
I have found that Wanda / Greenhills and some of the mellower reef breaks in Indo are much easier to surf than the Bra. Less critical, fuller and there is usually a defined channel to paddle out. Haven't had to deal much with sweep at the breaks I have been to.Hatchnam wrote:Mate. I'd be lucky surf those spots once every 2 years.petulance wrote:^^^
What, those points are better than Bondi and Bronte?
But the points are mind-bendingly perfect. They're surreal. Easy waves to surf that lend themselves to a higher level of performance, by default. On the points up there, your challenges are the sweep, the paddle, and the crowds, and not the actual 'waves'. Whereas down here, your bigger challenges are the sheer criticality and dynamics of the waves themselves.
smnmntll wrote: She's also moderately hot, with a bit of that petulance-approved titless starved whippet look about her but still pretty decent.
- el rancho
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Re: winter fourteen
the bank at kirra is shallow as fuck around big groyne
Re: winter fourteen
The chance of me ever getting a barrel at big Kirra could be measured only with the use of the Hadron Collider.
There are the points, and then there is low tide Kirra. It isn't even in the same league.
It evokes the same feelings to me as Pipeline, beautiful and mind-bendingly perfect. I dreamt about surfing them for a decade but when I saw them in full flight I wanted no piece of them.
Petulance the only thing that I've surfed in the Sydney-ish region that compares to the sand bottom points is Matticus' local on a big NE groundswell. Though I gather Ottway has some analogues nearby.
There are the points, and then there is low tide Kirra. It isn't even in the same league.
It evokes the same feelings to me as Pipeline, beautiful and mind-bendingly perfect. I dreamt about surfing them for a decade but when I saw them in full flight I wanted no piece of them.
Petulance the only thing that I've surfed in the Sydney-ish region that compares to the sand bottom points is Matticus' local on a big NE groundswell. Though I gather Ottway has some analogues nearby.
Re: winter fourteen
The threat of punishment on the sand points is being drilled by a thick lip onto a shallow as shit sandbank. Here with the reef slabs and full volume beachies it's more about being crushed by sheer water volume then held down til your blue. Personally, I find the latter more challenging . Less perfect and more volatile waves = more room for error = greater chance of getting your arse handed to you.
The reef points down here don't even come close to the perfect of northern sand points. Voodoo as a reef break however is both mutant and insane. But even that now had become a crowded circus. Even midweek.
The reef points down here don't even come close to the perfect of northern sand points. Voodoo as a reef break however is both mutant and insane. But even that now had become a crowded circus. Even midweek.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: winter fourteen
to be really honest ... surfing is a shit pastime with the amount of people now doing it.
Re: winter fourteen
And you cnuts reckon I should move north
My last half a dozen surfs I've known everyone in the water. Most on any of them days was 6 people. Sure, it's not Kirra or Snapper, but it has been pretty fcuken good
My last half a dozen surfs I've known everyone in the water. Most on any of them days was 6 people. Sure, it's not Kirra or Snapper, but it has been pretty fcuken good
marcus wrote:and that vicco dude, whatsisname?
- crabmeat thompson
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Re: winter fourteen
I miss surfing with the same crew every time, every place in tassie.
never more than 10 people, unless you had a proper groundswell and one of the novelty points were working.
I just miss tassie.
never more than 10 people, unless you had a proper groundswell and one of the novelty points were working.
I just miss tassie.
Re: winter fourteen
In SE QLD, boardriding is mostly a very ordinary experience.
The waves are often nice, the danger is very low, the water is warm and intensely blue. It is all so remarkably pleasant. Unfortunately, others have noticed this and these days the crowds are usually ridiculous. 15 people on a marginal, inconsistent micro peak. 350 people on a point when it is good, on a Tuesday.
Mind you, when there is swell the intensity of the northerly sweep can be quite hilarious.
I used to surf draining overhead Kirra in the seventies. I didn't find it scary. Though I was in my teens. You'd get the occasional thumping. That was fun, like a short, very vicious, pillow fight. I was confident in my wipeout skills. I played footy in those days and my worst Kirra pummeling was not as bad as half the tackles I gave and received. I haven't surfed overseas. The only time I have been really scared in the surf was in Sydney.
The waves are often nice, the danger is very low, the water is warm and intensely blue. It is all so remarkably pleasant. Unfortunately, others have noticed this and these days the crowds are usually ridiculous. 15 people on a marginal, inconsistent micro peak. 350 people on a point when it is good, on a Tuesday.
Mind you, when there is swell the intensity of the northerly sweep can be quite hilarious.
I used to surf draining overhead Kirra in the seventies. I didn't find it scary. Though I was in my teens. You'd get the occasional thumping. That was fun, like a short, very vicious, pillow fight. I was confident in my wipeout skills. I played footy in those days and my worst Kirra pummeling was not as bad as half the tackles I gave and received. I haven't surfed overseas. The only time I have been really scared in the surf was in Sydney.
Re: winter fourteen
Big waves in So Cal as well
http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-m ... story.html#
Check out the crowds watching - maybe there is a market...
Laird shoots the pier - on a SUP
http://mashable.com/2014/08/27/laird-ha ... hoot-pier/
http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-m ... story.html#
Check out the crowds watching - maybe there is a market...
Laird shoots the pier - on a SUP
http://mashable.com/2014/08/27/laird-ha ... hoot-pier/
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