Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
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Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
I was lucky enough to be there on Oahu for the the massive swell of Jan 28, 1998. Biggest Wed
But reading the reports this looks to be bigger then that swell.
December 4 is the 40 year anniversary of the largest surf episode of the last 50 years which occurred in 1969. Coincidentally, a similar pattern is brewing this year. Extreme episodes in February 1986 come to mind as well. For those and the present case, there were pairs of giant episodes a few days apart, with the latter larger. This is because the followup systems act upon existing seas and swell, increasing the wave growth potential. etc etc
The latest forecast report.......
SURF ZONE FORECAST
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE HONOLULU HI
330 PM HST SUN DEC 6 2009
OAHU-
330 PM HST SUN DEC 6 2009
HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH EAST AND WEST FACING SHORES
Surf along north facing shores will be 15 to 25 feet with 30 foot sets on outer reefs today. The surf will build to 30 to 40 feet with occasional sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday.
Surf along west facing shores will be 12 to 20 feet today, then build to 15 to 25 feet with occasional 30 feet Monday.
Surf along east facing shores will be 5 to 8 feet, and as high as 12 feet where exposed to the northwest swell today, then reach 10 to 18 feet along exposed shores Monday.
Surf along south facing shores will be 2 to 4 feet today then drop to 1 to 3 feet Monday.
Outlook through Saturday Dec 12: slowly dropping northwest swell is still keeping north facing shores in very large surf this afternoon. Another much larger northwest swell will arrive abruptly overnight pushing surf heights to extremely dangerous levels Monday. Surf will exceed warning levels well into the second half of the coming week. Adjacent west and east facing shores will see very large surf wrapping into the area as well this week. South shores will see fading southern hemisphere swell today into Monday. Some areas may experience inconsistent waves in unusual places this week due to the large northwest swell also wrapping into south shores.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face or front of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, in the zone of maximum refraction. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
But reading the reports this looks to be bigger then that swell.
December 4 is the 40 year anniversary of the largest surf episode of the last 50 years which occurred in 1969. Coincidentally, a similar pattern is brewing this year. Extreme episodes in February 1986 come to mind as well. For those and the present case, there were pairs of giant episodes a few days apart, with the latter larger. This is because the followup systems act upon existing seas and swell, increasing the wave growth potential. etc etc
The latest forecast report.......
SURF ZONE FORECAST
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE HONOLULU HI
330 PM HST SUN DEC 6 2009
OAHU-
330 PM HST SUN DEC 6 2009
HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH EAST AND WEST FACING SHORES
Surf along north facing shores will be 15 to 25 feet with 30 foot sets on outer reefs today. The surf will build to 30 to 40 feet with occasional sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday.
Surf along west facing shores will be 12 to 20 feet today, then build to 15 to 25 feet with occasional 30 feet Monday.
Surf along east facing shores will be 5 to 8 feet, and as high as 12 feet where exposed to the northwest swell today, then reach 10 to 18 feet along exposed shores Monday.
Surf along south facing shores will be 2 to 4 feet today then drop to 1 to 3 feet Monday.
Outlook through Saturday Dec 12: slowly dropping northwest swell is still keeping north facing shores in very large surf this afternoon. Another much larger northwest swell will arrive abruptly overnight pushing surf heights to extremely dangerous levels Monday. Surf will exceed warning levels well into the second half of the coming week. Adjacent west and east facing shores will see very large surf wrapping into the area as well this week. South shores will see fading southern hemisphere swell today into Monday. Some areas may experience inconsistent waves in unusual places this week due to the large northwest swell also wrapping into south shores.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face or front of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, in the zone of maximum refraction. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Death on a stick out there mate. Pretty crazy, would be amazing to watch.
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- Harry the Hat
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- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:29 pm
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Well if you're gonna have some of the largest swell in the last 40 years arriving, you may as well coincide it with the arrival of every pro surfer. Question is, is ANYWHERE going to be surfable?
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- Harry the Hat
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Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Was this an El Nino year too!!ac2026 wrote:December 4 is the 40 year anniversary of the largest surf episode of the last 50 years which occurred in 1969.
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
jaws? Other then that, probably not. Hoping for some epic tow in footage though.Donweather wrote:Well if you're gonna have some of the largest swell in the last 40 years arriving, you may as well coincide it with the arrival of every pro surfer. Question is, is ANYWHERE going to be surfable?
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
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Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
there'll be heaps of surfable options.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- Revolution
- Snowy McAllister
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- Location: DY.CURL
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Eddie should run / be surfable. I just wanna see some 3rd reef pipe bombs.
Just the wind seems dodgy
Anyone know how much waimea is effected by wind?
Just the wind seems dodgy
Anyone know how much waimea is effected by wind?
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Bohdi and Johnny Utah will be there to meet it
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
I cant comprehend how big that is. Would be awesome to sit on the beach and watch. Even watching would be fucking scary
Will any of you PC literate people post some pics?
Will any of you PC literate people post some pics?
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Answer:Donweather wrote:Question is, is ANYWHERE going to be surfable?
ahhhh, that's more like it.ac2026 wrote: SURF ZONE FORECAST
Surf along south facing shores will be 2 to 4 feet today then drop to 1 to 3 feet Monday.
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Anyone seen the coastalwatch front page, apparently Tom C broke his ankle this morning? Anyone (nick) heard anymore about this, was looking forward to him in the Eddie..
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
I think NC broke his ankle last year? The Carrol bros are always outdoing each other. A very competitive nature. Even when breaking bones.jose wrote:Anyone seen the coastalwatch front page, apparently Tom C broke his ankle this morning? Anyone (nick) heard anymore about this, was looking forward to him in the Eddie..
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BA (on Realsurf) wrote: It's the wild west with a bit more homo-eroticism.
- The Family Guy
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Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Can anyone explain why in such critical waves you always see tonnes of drop ins?
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
yeah coops that was at rocky point if i remember correctly.
Interesting question i always thought the reason for drop ins is because more paddle speed is required to get into the big waves and its seems to be more a case of if they can get into them or not, if i paddled for a wave out there i know i'd wanna catch it no matter what, imagine pulling back to see the next 20 footer cresting ahead.
Interesting question i always thought the reason for drop ins is because more paddle speed is required to get into the big waves and its seems to be more a case of if they can get into them or not, if i paddled for a wave out there i know i'd wanna catch it no matter what, imagine pulling back to see the next 20 footer cresting ahead.
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
LISTEN UP!!!!!
Any cnut over there please for your Realsurf mates provide updates (as they will be personal and unique) of the swell over there. That includes you NC. We all don't bother with these forums for nuttin. So post away.....Pipe starts tomorrow. BB wants to know about chicks on the beach......Volcom house antics.....fights......going out in Town etc etc etc and.....
....the EDDIE....etc etc.....whether Parko trys to pysche out Fanning subtly etc etc etc.
Now go forth and keep checkin in.
Revo you are doing well. NC ..... report in .... hope your brother is ok.
Who else is there? 2nd reefer?
KK would be there aye?
Fark what a great time to be over there..................fotos would be nice too.
Any cnut over there please for your Realsurf mates provide updates (as they will be personal and unique) of the swell over there. That includes you NC. We all don't bother with these forums for nuttin. So post away.....Pipe starts tomorrow. BB wants to know about chicks on the beach......Volcom house antics.....fights......going out in Town etc etc etc and.....
....the EDDIE....etc etc.....whether Parko trys to pysche out Fanning subtly etc etc etc.
Now go forth and keep checkin in.
Revo you are doing well. NC ..... report in .... hope your brother is ok.
Who else is there? 2nd reefer?
KK would be there aye?
Fark what a great time to be over there..................fotos would be nice too.
Last edited by Buff_Brad on Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45906
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
looked to be 20-25ft Waimea with dodgy winds.
Over-hyped?
The stormtrack relative to the great circle paths might suggest so.
Over-hyped?
The stormtrack relative to the great circle paths might suggest so.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
- Revolution
- Snowy McAllister
- Posts: 5063
- Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2007 11:34 pm
- Location: DY.CURL
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Counted 104892 Johnny California's today. 17.5 fake boobs (botched job) and alot of unmade waves.Buff_Brad wrote:LISTEN UP!!!!!
Any cnut over there please for your Realsurf mates provide updates
Each and everyone had a cold and couldn't surf today.
Im going with shearer. Doesn't look like any good winds will come any time soon. Had to drive a bit go get away from crowds. I was expecting eddie to run today but they couldnt run it in the conditions imo.
Surfed some fun protected waves with good winds. Swell wasnt wrapping around the island to well. At least thats coming from someone who hasnt been here before and doesnt have an idea where would be working in these conditions.
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 45906
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Sets to 50 feet on outer reefs Monday....
Did you surf on the west-side?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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