Where did you surf today ?

[buddy]

I surfed the b-grade sister.
Only 2 of us surfing out the back and 2 on the inside reform.
Mostly big steep takeoffs into walley burgers but the odd one would lineup real nice all the way through.
Sacrificed a bit of quality for being able to catch wave after wave non stop for an hour. Only had a short window.

Pod of dolphins hanging around the peg with me the whole surf and caught nearly every wave with them. Pretty surreal.

Surfed the 6’5 widowmaker.
First time in 4 months.

BTW BA, light offshore, warm sunshine and I was too warm in my old leaky 2/2 long arm spring.

[BA]

Don’t make me fly up there and smack you upside your head

I surfed a couple of days ago in my 4x3 and booties in a westerly wind and sideways rain. It took an hour for me to feel my big toes after I got out.

[buddy]

Hmm, I don’t miss that.
I liked the cold surf but not when it got into numb finger and toes territory.
I remember one 3 hour mid winter surf at winki, trying to walk up those raggedy rocks from down the valley.
And they seem painful through your boots when your feet are that cold.
Then my numb hands were a struggle to get out of the suit.
Then I had a button up shirt and I couldn’t do the buttons up.
Was a real struggle.

[BA]

Yeah your feet definitely feel the rocks more when cold. On the same day I came in through some rocks and got hit by a wave in the shorey. Slipped down a crevice and scraped the side of my foot and ankle. I wanted to punch a baby.

[Beanpole]

Never get that at Lennox.
First time I surfed there I got a fcuking big sea urchin spine in my foot coming in on the rocks.
Popped it out with a pocket knife in my mates living room. Blood everywhere. Came out clean luckily.

[steve shearer]

Pod of dolphins hanging around the peg with me the whole surf and caught nearly every wave with them. Pretty surreal.

Surfed the 6’5 widowmaker.
First time in 4 months.

BTW BA, light offshore, warm sunshine and I was too warm in my old leaky 2/2 long arm spring.

Yeah, I've never surfed with so many dolphins as the last few days.

Was sweating in the Volcom steamer.

Fucking heaps of urchins down the inside.

I got a foot full, my wife got a foot full, my son got a foot full.

Kind of fun digging out the spines.

[buddy]

Fuck, stoked I didn’t surf there then.
I seem to get really sick feeling and lethargic when I get urchin spines in me.
And most of them have been at the point and never at boulders for some reason.
Got one from the top all the way past bill and Ben and white water proned it straight onto sand to come in, urchin free.

[steve shearer]

Occasionally it gets full of urchins down there, right in front of Bill and Ben. The spines don't seem to bother me at all, even when left in.

I definitely had some cool inter-species communication with dolphins the last few days.

[Beanpole]

Only other time I’ve got a spine in my foot was goofing around on the rocks at Nth Bondi. I thought I’d ask the Clubbies for some tweezers or something to dig it out. They said no way. You need to go to a doctor. Tried digging it out at home but it broke up and I had to go to the Doc to clear it all out. Much smaller than the one at Lennox. That was nearly as thick as a pencil.

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[steve shearer]

Think I told this story before.

I got a foot full one day - thought I got them all out.

A few months later I noticed a little pimple on the top of my foot.

I squeezed it and out popped the top of an urchin spine which was a couple of cm long.

It had gone right through my foot from bottom to top without me noticing it.

[Trev]

I've told this one too.
Both feet full of them at Norah Head in 1967. Over 3 hours at Gosford hospital.
Doc explained that most of them in the fleshier parts of the foot had broken off up to a quarter of an inch below the skin.

Mmmoooorrrphinooooo.

[Drailed]

You went to hospital for sea urchins in your foot? Fuck me, I thought Gen Z were meant to be the soft cnuts.

[steve shearer]

Yeah, I told my wife to stop squealing, it was no bg deal.

She had at least a dozen spines in between two feet.

She dislocated her toe rocking off (thing was at right angles, almost snapped off) and managed to crawl up the rocks before I carried her to the car.

British steel eh Loof.

[channels]

You went to hospital for sea urchins in your foot? Fuck me, I thought Gen Z were meant to be the soft cnuts.

Mate, you wear booties. You're the big softie here.

[Drailed]

You went to hospital for sea urchins in your foot? Fuck me, I thought Gen Z were meant to be the soft cnuts.

Mate, you wear booties. You're the big softie here.

Booties, huh? Never.

Youre stalking the wrong bloke you weird cnut.

[channels]

Your hard man act never gets old.

Didnt need booties at cloudbreak but sure as shit did wear them at restaurants.

Half way through first session in the ments I ditched the booties. 3 days later when I was stood on dry reef with 5 foot waves unloading in front of me I kinda wished I still had them on.

[Drailed]

Your hard man act never gets old.

Didnt need booties at cloudbreak but sure as shit did wear them at restaurants.

Half way through first session in the ments I ditched the booties. 3 days later when I was stood on dry reef with 5 foot waves unloading in front of me I kinda wished I still had them on.

If you ever got out the safety of the qashqai and surfed 4ft restaurants at low tide you would understand.