Where did you surf today ?
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- PeepeelaPew
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
good lord
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I have fins in my boards.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I chip fins and rough sand solar res and I’m done.
Better than in the past when I’d gaffa dings or stick wax in them.
Better than in the past when I’d gaffa dings or stick wax in them.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I had to belt a stuck single out of a fin box. Pulverised the fin. Seems to go ok.
Lovely set of shapers quads that have been hammered on rocks. Work fine for my skill level.
Side note, the FCS Reactor rears are great.
Lovely set of shapers quads that have been hammered on rocks. Work fine for my skill level.
Side note, the FCS Reactor rears are great.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
yes well you're all going to drown in the next week, including legion if he goes down south, so you can "run" whatever fin sets you want. Like the little girl said to Ripley in Alien 2: "It won't make any difference."
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I remember when Banksy was doing his boat trips saying after many visits that he refused to stop in at One Palm Point on Panaitan Island any more. It just wasn't worth it he reckoned as the chances were someone would be seriously injured and it would stuff the rest of the boat trip.crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 2:35 pmhaha. you're so ocd.
i'd love to go on a boat trip to somewhere funky like west java for a month with you and shearer.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: good fanks
Re: Where did you surf today ?
yeah totally. a fucking gnarly wave. trip before us the cook was telling us about a bloke who was completely scalped. we dived it on a flat day and there's nothing like it I've ever seen. Surfed it at 3 foot, and it was shallow.Cranked wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 9:34 amI remember when Banksy was doing his boat trips saying after many visits that he refused to stop in at One Palm Point on Panaitan Island any more. It just wasn't worth it he reckoned as the chances were someone would be seriously injured and it would stuff the rest of the boat trip.crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 2:35 pmhaha. you're so ocd.
i'd love to go on a boat trip to somewhere funky like west java for a month with you and shearer.
but around the corner another left was 4-6 and firing and fun... just a super heavy exit before the wave dry docks onto reef. Then further along you have Napalm. Got that at 5-6 feet and heaving. fastest wave i've ever surfed, then along the next point at the opposite end of the bay from 1-palm there's the funnest right in the world. one hard section, either have to float over, or air over to make it (i made it like 3 times in about 100 waves) ... but the rest of the wave is like Burleigh with no sweep and just the boat crew out.
that whole zone is still premium, imo
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
i put my heel through a rail last swell. waxed up the crack, applied a layer of black gaffer and away i go.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
good on ya
check this video out, super shit quality but watch between 13.20 and 15.00 for me totally blowing everyone out of the water at Sunset in 1986
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9XbpQq ... c7duYh6EVA
including awesome drop ins by Bradshaw and lil brother whom I pretty much blew off the wave. Take that Kong!
check this video out, super shit quality but watch between 13.20 and 15.00 for me totally blowing everyone out of the water at Sunset in 1986
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9XbpQq ... c7duYh6EVA
including awesome drop ins by Bradshaw and lil brother whom I pretty much blew off the wave. Take that Kong!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
With that lack of 4k content, that could be Loofy for all we know.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
That last one you get is insane NC!
Looking back at it, what has changed in your surfing at Sunset between then and now?
Looking back at it, what has changed in your surfing at Sunset between then and now?
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Back then I was riding a 7'4" x 3" x 19" AB six channel pintail, a lot of foam but the board was shorter, with hard down rails and with a bit more vee. I had a 7'10" as well for big big days. They both were generically shorter and thicker than what I ride today in the same size surf. That changes how you do turns, I'm less aggressive these days for sure and less inspired, at that time I was in my mid to late mid 20s and really grooving in on how I wanted to surf the place, the kinds of waves I wanted to ride -- deeper and further over on the shallow part of the reef outside the point. And locking in the bottom turns early so you could get to the barrel or the lip with speed. Really feeling a full on connection with the wave, same as lil bro was feeling a connection to Pipe.
The crew was different too, it was awesome being in that head space with guys like Schmiddy and Bobby Owens, Charlie Walker, AB, Foo, Darrick D, Sarlo and Kong and co, we just went hammer and tongs at it. Some of us competed, others like myself, Charlie and DD didn't, I still remember Darrick saying, "Nahhh, we're Freedom Riders," in his crazy growl/drawl. I never wrote much about it.
All those guys are gone now, the crowd is mostly kooks, and I surf it really easily these days, not as fiercely, just putting the turns in the right spot. Still on AB sixes but.
The crew was different too, it was awesome being in that head space with guys like Schmiddy and Bobby Owens, Charlie Walker, AB, Foo, Darrick D, Sarlo and Kong and co, we just went hammer and tongs at it. Some of us competed, others like myself, Charlie and DD didn't, I still remember Darrick saying, "Nahhh, we're Freedom Riders," in his crazy growl/drawl. I never wrote much about it.
All those guys are gone now, the crowd is mostly kooks, and I surf it really easily these days, not as fiercely, just putting the turns in the right spot. Still on AB sixes but.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
That drop in from Kenny was pretty harsh. Was that him flexing his “local” muscles?
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- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
I don't know! I can't recall that wave. Ken used to sit on that wide west peak, he might not have seen me, I was a long way deeper and inside. I probably faded off that and turned up underneath him. I never had a bad vibe with him at all. Ken got in all sorts of arguments out there though, jeez.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Thanks Nick. The wave Owens gets is pretty amazing too. Appreciate you sharing.
- PeepeelaPew
- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 12:21 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
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Last edited by PeepeelaPew on Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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