i am a kook
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i am a kook
just responding to some people that get offended when i talk about how i dont like spins, or i talk about my favourite surf spot.
just letting you all know im a kook, i cant surf small waves to save my life, i have a really unco small wave style, i wear glasses and sometimes read books.
just letting you all know im a kook, i cant surf small waves to save my life, i have a really unco small wave style, i wear glasses and sometimes read books.
Oscar Wilde - "I am not young enough to know everything"
yeah i just got to thinking that some of my posts could make me seem like im trying to be superhardcore or up myself or something, so just wanted to say i actually dont think im that good at normal wave surfing, just had alot of weird shit happen in the waves i thought would be interesting to realsurf people.
trust me, in crappy waves im as kooky as anyone, copped alot of crap in cronulla so i decided as a kid to focus on the big stuff to prove the guys wrong, sometimes i get a bit passionate about power surfing, and all that"soul" surfer stuff.
so just clearing things up, and putting my perspective out there.
hope i havent seemed like too much of a wanker.
cheers
marcus
trust me, in crappy waves im as kooky as anyone, copped alot of crap in cronulla so i decided as a kid to focus on the big stuff to prove the guys wrong, sometimes i get a bit passionate about power surfing, and all that"soul" surfer stuff.
so just clearing things up, and putting my perspective out there.
hope i havent seemed like too much of a wanker.
cheers
marcus
Oscar Wilde - "I am not young enough to know everything"
On the comp scene I've done a couple of comps but really never liked it. I won the lid section of the local Pippi Beach Surf Comp in Yamba one time - scored a pushy out of it!! But apart from that just a few ones at Ballina and Port Mac. Like I said never really enjoyed it, just like the surfing with mates thing. As I am in the Defence Force, time of recent to go surfing is limited so technical moves are not really there but usually maintain enough skills to steer through most pits and punch a decent bit of air when the opportunity arises. Just do it for myself, not to showboat. I don't really think you can call anyone a kook unless they gloat about their style when they really are shit. If someone is new but admits it, they are just inexperienced and need encouragement. But if you find it necessary to bag someone on their weaknesses, you really are just compensating for something...
Do it because you love it, not because you think someone will rate you because of it!!
Do it because you love it, not because you think someone will rate you because of it!!
i do the endless comps in cronulla and mystics. Its a non-profit organisation and we take turns in judging and score evenly. Best 60 bucks i've spent (registration)
the guy that runs it (John Pyne) competes in the opens as well. If you surf in cronulla or mystics you might of seen him in speedos and a blue rashie
the guy that runs it (John Pyne) competes in the opens as well. If you surf in cronulla or mystics you might of seen him in speedos and a blue rashie
thats cool! small waves suck anyway. and from what ive read, heard and seen, thats the attitude heaps of kids in nulla have yeh? it makes sense having waves like island and solander so close that ppl who surf there are going to have more focus on bottom turning into heaving pits, rather than being able to milk small waves with good style.so i decided as a kid to focus on the big stuff to prove the guys wrong
personally im the opposite, i surf mostly around n.beaches and therefore am in weaker con's so my surfin reflects that. im fine in the small stuff, like being able to draw lines to get more speed and spin n bflip off a ripple in a bathtub... but when it comes to anything 6ft+ and heavy, i struggle so much.. i actually shy away from testing myself in those conditions due to the fear of my inability to handle it. im talkin about scooping into a slab and setting a good line without bogging or sliding out haha... which i think is fkn ridiculous as a bodyboarder - coz that's where we should be best at and most focused on!
so marcus ur defin not a kook in my eyes champ. surfin more powerful waves is an art and one in which is much more challenging and difficult than spinning like a top in poo surf.
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