Just general surfing stuff

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Yuke Hunt
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Yuke Hunt » Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:58 am

buddy wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:31 am
Big names with egos in check
Shane Egan.
Rod Dahlberg.

Slightly lesser name but famous brand
Dale Wilson

Cory in Torquay also seems like no ego.
There's heaps of good shapers without weird ego slash complexes ... way too many to list.

I know a few that are deep into conspiracy theories, but I won't name and shame.
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.

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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:07 pm

Yuke Hunt wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:58 am
buddy wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2024 11:31 am
Big names with egos in check
Shane Egan.
Rod Dahlberg.

Slightly lesser name but famous brand
Dale Wilson

Cory in Torquay also seems like no ego.
There's heaps of good shapers without weird ego slash complexes ... way too many to list.

I know a few that are deep into conspiracy theories, but I won't name and shame.
They name themselves in their Instagram stories.
They’re not shy about it.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:09 pm

Geoff McCoy and Grant Miller seem like the epitome of the egocentric shapers. Geoff probably takes the cake, deluded, jaded, grumpy, etc. equally both these shapers have odd fan bases that lap up their kool aid.
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

buddy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:16 pm

I don’t mind a bit of ego if the board goes good.
Like Webber, MC, Banksy etc

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steve shearer
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by steve shearer » Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:24 pm

Been surfing heaps this summer because my son has been frothing.

I normally surf for an hour, hour and a half and get out fresh, into it again next day fresh.

Now I am surfing 2-3hrs and sometimes twice a day.

Can really feel the fatigue and over-use injuries starting to pile up- especially when it's 4 or 5 days in a row.
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Drailed
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Drailed » Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:30 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:24 pm
Been surfing heaps this summer because my son has been frothing.

I normally surf for an hour, hour and a half and get out fresh, into it again next day fresh.

Now I am surfing 2-3hrs and sometimes twice a day.

Can really feel the fatigue and over-use injuries starting to pile up- especially when it's 4 or 5 days in a row.
The longer sessions really compound the fatigue.
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Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:34 pm

Just trying to get my head around Steve saying Surgeons are the worst for big egos and comparing them to surfboard shapers.
One has a high level medical degree. The other left school in Year 10 and May or may not have ever read a book.

Brett Monroe seems like a regular guy. Billy Tolhurst doesn’t need to big note himself……also has an Engineering Degree.
Put your big boy pants on
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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:45 pm

Anyone surfed either little or big Marley beach in the royal national park before?

It’s around a 50 min walk north or Wattamolla.

I’ve checked it on foot three times now, and curious to hear from anyone that’s surfed it.

Apparently it’s deemed by SLSA as one of the most dangerous unpatrolled beaches in NSW, surfing and swimming aren’t recommended. Looking at the set up I can see why.

Big marley is a narrow 350 metre long beach that faces south and cops a shit tonne of south swell and rips and currents look horrendous, can easy see how you’d get swept around the point. The left off the point looks sketchy, the beach pitches straight out deep water over a shallow inside bank, there’s a right reef off the inside-west corner also.

Little Marley just south of it faces east, very narrow and offers a slabby right reef that wraps into the bay, though on low tide rocks inside can get exposed. Looks like it’d be fun on an east swell, but on south swells the north drift looks menacing

Keen to camp there and hit up either but looks like a great place to come unstuck also.

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Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Mon Feb 12, 2024 3:11 pm

Hatchy, I've surfed it a few dozen times ages ago, never when it was big as I usually went there when Cronllua was small or to avoid crowds.

A nice boil on the Northen end and a mellower break south.

Are the shacks still there?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Feb 12, 2024 3:56 pm

Cranked wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2024 3:11 pm
Hatchy, I've surfed it a few dozen times ages ago, never when it was big as I usually went there when Cronllua was small or to avoid crowds.

A nice boil on the Northen end and a mellower break south.

Are the shacks still there?
No shacks at either Marley beach I’m aware of.

And yes, smaller conditions would be the ideal time to test it out. Big groundswell days look like an absolute wrestle and risky AF
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Mon Feb 12, 2024 4:37 pm

Toledo bows out of the Comp for the year.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

purple_pyramids
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by purple_pyramids » Tue Feb 13, 2024 3:01 pm

Hatchnam wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2024 12:45 pm
Anyone surfed either little or big Marley beach in the royal national park before?

It’s around a 50 min walk north or Wattamolla.

I’ve checked it on foot three times now, and curious to hear from anyone that’s surfed it.

Apparently it’s deemed by SLSA as one of the most dangerous unpatrolled beaches in NSW, surfing and swimming aren’t recommended. Looking at the set up I can see why.

Big marley is a narrow 350 metre long beach that faces south and cops a shit tonne of south swell and rips and currents look horrendous, can easy see how you’d get swept around the point. The left off the point looks sketchy, the beach pitches straight out deep water over a shallow inside bank, there’s a right reef off the inside-west corner also.

Little Marley just south of it faces east, very narrow and offers a slabby right reef that wraps into the bay, though on low tide rocks inside can get exposed. Looks like it’d be fun on an east swell, but on south swells the north drift looks menacing

Keen to camp there and hit up either but looks like a great place to come unstuck also.
I seem to remember cliff stuffed-up his leg at marley. but think it was from high jinks when there was no surf.

used to go swimming there a bit...with swim fins. walked in from bundeena or a track off the road to bunbeena. both tracks are sun-blasted on hot days.

2nd Reef
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by 2nd Reef » Tue Feb 13, 2024 3:13 pm

No cabins, Cranked. Must be thinking of the Nasho's southern beachies.

Best walk in is the second carpark along Bundeena Rd - 45 mins each way. Slightly more shade and can jump in the Deer Pool on hot days. No matter which way you go, you won't know if the effort is worth it till the very end. Expect to be disappointed every second attempt - at least. It's a long way to go to find you can't surf.

Gets the occasional bank, occasional rip bowl too, but it's very exposed so loses it's sand easily, and cos of its diminutive size it's often overpowered.

Lovely beach but.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Feb 13, 2024 3:15 pm

Thanks for the reply stu
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Cranked
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Cranked » Tue Feb 13, 2024 8:30 pm

2nd Reef wrote:
Tue Feb 13, 2024 3:13 pm
No cabins, Cranked. Must be thinking of the Nasho's southern beachies.
Oops, you're right 2nd Reef.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

buddy
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by buddy » Wed Feb 14, 2024 7:08 pm

Got a chuckle out of this chick doing her complete yoga routine dead centre of the cresso webcam this morning.
I wonder if she uses it to check her form.
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Beanpole
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by Beanpole » Wed Feb 14, 2024 8:03 pm

So many more poseurs there these days. Most on their van trip to Byron from Bondi.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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BA
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Re: Just general surfing stuff

Post by BA » Wed Feb 14, 2024 8:04 pm

:oops: I watched a replay of myself surfing Boings the other day. Shredding of course :-D-:

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