RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Yeah, what is IT about surfing, what is that gives you that high that shit eating grin that feeling that all is ok. I've got to ask this 'cause lately, say 4 mnths, I had not been surfing that good (not hard in sydney with shite surf) & the fact that I'm 60 . I've had my miller 7'4"vskate, 7'8' powerglide & JD 6'10" out. Went up the coast down the coast even went to South Sumatra still couldn't get it together. So after some deep thinks I went and got a new board. Got a 7'4" Takayama scorpion tuffie, set it up as a 2+1 and took it out into yep yet more Sydney slop.Dunno if its the board, but jees it does feel good to me, or the training I've been doing but I'm back. So last weekend I'm out at South Palm beach, sun is out, waters warm & for the waves on offer I'm riding well & doing what i love. Come out 3hrs later feeling better than I have in months & got that shit eating grin.So what is it that makes you feel so good after a good surf. I've seen mates that play golf & other sports & they say they played well etc but not one of them has that SURFERS grin. Me I dunno what it is but shit I love it.

Apart from one or two occasions over the years where I've nearly died, I don't think I've ever come in without that grin.
I may doddle around for an hour deciding whether or not to paddle out but once I'm out there I never regret it.

Although, some days the grin is bigger than others.

maybe it's the pheronomes? combined with the hormones. not to mention the homoeroticisms! and the relief at not being eaten by a shark. so many factors to consider, gee whiz.

The older I get the better surfing seems as an activity........although sometimes at Bondi
I've actually been thinking about how as I get more decrepit I'm going through a reverse adolescence. Some things get more hypothetical like looking at hot women and really gnarly waves and simple stuff becomes more fun like having a good surf at the local. It seem really great.

I fcuken love it

strips away the bullshit.

I like the feel of a good fitting wetsuit.

My wesuit fits pretty darn good too..

the smell,the touch,the taste,the sound and the sight of the ocean all come together as a smorgasboard of erotic sensation.It makes my fins go hard....

2 hours away from my family.

Yep.

because it's Summer.

Summer's surfing season. In the winter they frequent weird politico-type sites like crikey etc.

For me its because I'm still actively participating it stops me from fooling myself into telling stories about how great a sportsperson I was when I was younger (thank christ becuase its not true). That and a new middle aged earing and/or red sports car.

Same here.
A dose of sunshine and warmer water and the sheeple factor goes through the roof.

whst's a matter dude? aren't you down with the surfing vibe? gimme a bro handshake, c'mon...

reginald wrote:Another troll. Why do they all come out at christmas?

If your refering to me I'm actualy here quite often I just don't bother commenting much anymore because,well look at your comment,ha,why would anyone want to comunicate with that?

As corny and hippy as it sounds surfing just a good excuse to be in the ocean amongst nature and get a buzz as a bonus.

The best flipside of surfing though is the places it takes you, for me to every corner of OZ and Indo.

Salt water thickens my beard.

The summer trolls, came blowin in - from across the west
It lingered there, so warm and fair - to walk with Allan
All summer long, Claudia sang a song - and strolled on golden sand
Two sweethearts, and the summer trolls...

Thats beautiful Coops.
I can smell the gentle smoke of the burning threads in every word.

unclethirsty wrote:Yeah, what is IT about surfing, what is that gives you that high that shit eating grin that feeling that all is ok. I've got to ask this 'cause lately, say 4 mnths, I had not been surfing that good (not hard in sydney with shite surf) & the fact that I'm 60 . I've had my miller 7'4"vskate, 7'8' powerglide & JD 6'10" out. Went up the coast down the coast even went to South Sumatra still couldn't get it together. So after some deep thinks I went and got a new board. Got a 7'4" Takayama scorpion tuffie, set it up as a 2+1 and took it out into yep yet more Sydney slop.Dunno if its the board, but jees it does feel good to me, or the training I've been doing but I'm back. So last weekend I'm out at South Palm beach, sun is out, waters warm & for the waves on offer I'm riding well & doing what i love. Come out 3hrs later feeling better than I have in months & got that shit eating grin.So what is it that makes you feel so good after a good surf. I've seen mates that play golf & other sports & they say they played well etc but not one of them has that SURFERS grin. Me I dunno what it is but shit I love it.

I just do it to pick up chicks...haha...if that was really the case I would have given up many years ago!

Love the post man...and like yourself...havent found anything else in life so far that compares...take it easy