RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Just got another bindie out of my heel when I had a shower.

Banks are pretty crap unless it’s dead high. I think the council has bulldozed sand into the gutters.

Day off. After a cunt of a morning, I needed a saltwater cleanse. Shitty weather, showers and cross-shores. Didn’t care.
Headed to a beachie to be greeted by head-high peaks, minimal people, dark inky water and gloomy conditions. Cold. Just what I needed. I actually like it like that. Sat for a bit just soaking it in. I could see the showers approaching from the West. They hit, wind drops, and it glasses off. Grab four waves in quick succession (like catch, paddle back, turn around, catch, paddle back, turn around etc.) and I’m done.

How good is surfing for your mental state. Nothing compares.

Yep, I’ve always liked the random element of surfing. It’s one thing to chase swells and plan trips……..which is great….But the days when you just nab a good surf out of the blue and it lifts your day are priceless.
Had a pleasant bash at Bronte. Nothing special but nice conditions and not crowded.

5th day in a row surfing a little bank. Stella spring conditions. Sea life close in eating salmon and what have you (seals, sharks, birds, dolphins going crazy)

Nice on BA, Pants.

Haven't been in since G-land.

Waters cold again.

Packed at Bondi. A great little bank in the corner. Hotly contested. Managed to get a good one right through.

The Farm. 2-3foot with a couple of slightly bigger sets. Not offshore, but pretty clean. Not too many people out. Surfed the 6”10 free flight mid length which works a treat out there.

Went down for a dip at low tide. Walked along the beach. Packed and dredging closeouts the length of the beach. Wouldn’t have wanted to be a Lifeguard on duty. Novices taking off and freefalling into a couple of feet of water. Plenty of rescues with tourists swimming in the rips.

6”10 mid length on some fun sized reef surf this arvo

Used to love Vooey on those days that weren’t quite perfect but you’d always snag a few with no one out. Sure that’s changed now.

It was like that today. Only about 6 or so out. Don’t know why

there was a person on narrawallee beach this morning playing the bagpipes...the haunting strains of "mull of kintyre" drifting over the water.

2-3 foot south Maroubra. Surfed the pyzel shadow. Doesn’t deliver much drive in mushy conditions. Goes great if it’s pitching and hollow though.

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Nice conditions today. Plenty of people getting flogged on the north bank. The odd gem amongst the sectioning lefts though.

Pumping 5-6ft surf with a full skitzy rock-off.

Rode the 6'9" Gunther Rohn which I haven't ridden for 7 years.

Paddles like a piece of shitt with the narrower nose but damn it felt good on a wave, especially with the C-drive fins in it.