RealSurf Surfers' Forum

I agree with you Beany about dredging shallow reefs and rock slabs, I'm more into those perfect tropical reefs sculptured by the interaction of coral to the fresh water runoff from the land

Yes, the vagary of sand banks mean an element of chance is added to any long term surfing plans.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 18, 2022 11:50 am

I can't remember the last time I surfed a sand break.

I guess about 40 years ago when I was living near Cronulla.

Would it be sacrilege to say I prefer sand on a day by day basis?

Perfect sand bottom point break > perfect reef break.

It's a more uniform bottom which creates a better shaped wave when it's good.

Yeah, but too inconsistent.

Coral reef breaks are often better groomed than other reef breaks because of the interaction between historic coral growth as modified by the sunlight and the water depth, plus the impact from fresh water runoff from the land. And they don't change much over decades or even centuries.

Sand banks can change from day to day, dependant on wind, swell direction and size

Sand flow and deposition is a bit more complex than that in this part of the world.

Boo knows a lot about it.

The point is though that they change frequently.

Well I grew up surfing the sand bottom points from Snapper to the Alley and loved them.
However the rock bottoms at Fairy Bower (plus small Winki) and Dee Why more than kept me happy.
So my current local (rock bottom) plus Neill St and the Bluff are great.
Sand points further north are fine too.

I've never ridden a short board (well, less than 7'6) so beach breaks don't grab me.

I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:35 pm

I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.

Surge Rock is what makes it interesting.
The eternal question, "Will I ride inside it, outside it or over it?" makes for a bit of extra fun. And for every wave, the right answer is different.

Sort of like, Rock; Paper; Scissors.
Oh shit!

ROCK!!

That’s not selling it, Trev.
Bronte is much worse.
I’d say only a 30% chance of making it for most people.
Better when it’s bigger on a good day because it breaks on the reef further out.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:47 pm

That’s not selling it, Trev.
Bronte is much worse.
I’d say only a 30% chance of making it for most people.
Better when it’s bigger on a good day because it breaks on the reef further out.

Wasn't trying to sell it mate.

It's a great wave. On good days you take off midway between Winki and Surge then run into the racetrack. Good long rides.

Trev wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:40 pm

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:35 pm

I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.

Surge Rock is what makes it interesting.
The eternal question, "Will I ride inside it, outside it or over it?" makes for a bit of extra fun. And for every wave, the right answer is different.

Sort of like, Rock; Paper; Scissors.
Oh shit!

ROCK!!

I rode over it once on a pretty big day. Got a severe pounding and dragged across the rocks. Never did it again.

BA wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:15 pm

Trev wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:40 pm

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:35 pm

I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.

Surge Rock is what makes it interesting.
The eternal question, "Will I ride inside it, outside it or over it?" makes for a bit of extra fun. And for every wave, the right answer is different.

Sort of like, Rock; Paper; Scissors.
Oh shit!

ROCK!!

I rode over it once on a pretty big day. Got a severe pounding and dragged across the rocks. Never did it again.

Gotta stay high on the wave.
Awesome watching it suck dry in front of you.

Yep, always went high after that. Going around can be sketchy coz it slows you down. Kinda like fading.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 11:08 am

The point is though that they change frequently.

Not always Cranked, sometimes perfect Pointbreak banks can be stable for months, even years.

Changes tend to happen in massive quantum shifts.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:45 pm

Cranked wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 19, 2022 11:08 am

The point is though that they change frequently.

Not always Cranked, sometimes perfect Pointbreak banks can be stable for months, even years.

Changes tend to happen in massive quantum shifts.

Sand based ones, lasting for years?

All the Cronulla ones I surfed were sort of seasonal based on the prevailing currents and winds, but anytime of the year a storm could wreck them and it would take a few weeks for them to be re-established.