RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Snuck out for a couple before the storm. Learners dropping in left right and centre. Fun little waves though. Still can’t understand why they swing around when you are halfway through the wave and try and take off.

Some bumps before the big high tide - no highlights.

Nice little swell finding its way to my local. Especially good on low tide.
Offshore early when it's supposed to be NE all night.

3 hours yesterday. (2 sessions)
2 hours today.

And the Christmas rush has begun.
This morning I had 40 minutes alone, from 4 am. Then one other guy came out but he went right out to the short ride in front of the rocks at the point.

Enter two guys maybe in their 40s on foamies. Both massively overweight.
One guy had such a big gut when he lay on his board his stomach poked out either side of his body.
But, they both rode well. Literally ripped their waves apart with big carves.

It never got overly crowded but there had to be 20 guys I've never seen before on mals.

Supposed to be some swell next week.

And the fucking camera is back. New location at the top of the hill. Fixed on the outside takeoff spot.
Went live on Tuesday I think. Yesterday and today, it's down.

Baby food runners south Maroubra.waters warm as toast atm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 09, 2021 6:09 pm

Baby food runners south Maroubra.waters warm as toast atm

Man that bank, 2 ft lefts grinding down it.

Yep, it’s shapely

The camera is still down.
And the adjacent one for Dickey Beach is running a pre recorded loop.

Anyway, another 2+ hours today.

Supposed to be a northerly all night but was light offshore by 3am.
And held that way until after 7.

I had to wait for about 20 minutes later today because of heavy cloud which kept the light away.
Actually one of the best sessions I've had in ages. Slightly bigger than yesterday.

Anyway, supposed to be offshore in the morning but it is Saturday and the first day of the school holidays so crowds are expected.

End of the week surf before the rain/storms - offshore, small but enjoyable.

Put a sign up Trev
It’s worked before

Put one that says FCUCK JORDAN PETERSEN

Every day is getting better.
Today was like an autumn morning.
Slight lengthening of the swell period and now long overhead walls peeling through.

Grrrrr!

I can't wait to get back to the Bukit and blithely report, every fcuking day, that all day, it's sunny, the wind is a zepher like offshore, swell is 17 seconds, head to double and there's a dozen or so surfers in the lineup.

Yawn!

As it is, and as usual, I'll ride my bike in the hills in the morning and swim in the afternoon.

South Maroubra then drifted north a bit on this shifty left bank. Pretty solid, pick the right peak and you’d get couple of good turns in before it doubled up and exploded on the inshore bank

There were some very happy faces after the morning session down here. Mine included.

My last wave was a bigger roll-in that had the pack too deep, I managed to bounce through the full foam take off to make my feet, then I just had to wait, cruising until the wave hit the inside- at which point it turned into a screaming wall all the way to the beach immediately south.

Could be my favourite wave of 2021!

I really hate foam takeoffs.
The older I get, the harder my popups get.
Doing it in a ball of foam is even harder.

Wyre wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 12, 2021 5:58 pm

There were some very happy faces after the morning session down here. Mine included.

My last wave was a bigger roll-in that had the pack too deep, I managed to bounce through the full foam take off to make my feet, then I just had to wait, cruising until the wave hit the inside- at which point it turned into a screaming wall all the way to the beach immediately south.

Could be my favourite wave of 2021!

You beauty Wyre, I can picture your whole ride.

Hold on, what did you do when faced with the screaming wall?