RealSurf Surfers' Forum

ah who knows, it was a Monday and people work, there'd have been a few more out in the late arvo. The QS pros have all fled the scene and the CT pros' attention is all on Pipeline, you don't surf Sunset to get ready for Pipe.

There's heaps of rec haole surfers around here now, people who've moved here from CA or the east coast or wherever, they mostly don't surf when it's over 6'.

Quite a few of the super hard core Sunset guys have either stepped away a bit or just don't surf that much in December 'cause of the whole Triple Crown thing. Others are glued to Pipe like the pros are. I reckon once Pipe's done I'll see a few more of them in the water.

Nah Nick, word in the water is the Carroll stinkeye preceded you.

Are you mad offshore1. I'm friends with everybody!

That's something that got me about Hawaii. A lot of places were pretty quiet mid week. Apart from Waikiki and the roads around the islands there were heaps of beaches that were as quiet as somewhere halfway up the coast in NSW on a Tuesday.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 11, 2019 4:12 am

ah who knows, it was a Monday and people work, there'd have been a few more out in the late arvo. The QS pros have all fled the scene and the CT pros' attention is all on Pipeline, you don't surf Sunset to get ready for Pipe.

There's heaps of rec haole surfers around here now, people who've moved here from CA or the east coast or wherever, they mostly don't surf when it's over 6'.

Quite a few of the super hard core Sunset guys have either stepped away a bit or just don't surf that much in December 'cause of the whole Triple Crown thing. Others are glued to Pipe like the pros are. I reckon once Pipe's done I'll see a few more of them in the water.

What were you riding?

What’s the profile of a hard core Sunset local vs. say another local. Are the Sunset crew the better all round surfers and dare I say it better watermen than say Pipe locals?

Yesterday 7'1". Sunset core locals are older than Pipe core locals. I dunno about better watermen, all the people who've been surfing this coast well for years are pretty fcuken competent.

Today, wooo, bigger. Swell swung a bit NW then more north again around midday. Surfed Sunset for a couple of hours after watching the contest all morning, 8-10', a bit wayward but some good squared up ones. One very special, a full bore 10' NW peak with long sloping wall pulling into the peak from the channel, I thought for a moment I was too deep but the wave came across under me. Full on vertical takeoff obscured by the lip, freed up at the base, opened out and hammered two or three big swooping base to lip carves. Went up a few inches to 7'7" same thing though, six channel pintail. I caught 21 waves in two hours, a crazy total at fairly solid Sunset, but now I am crisp.

Who wants the 10' NW wedge? I tell ya what, nobody else near me did.

Yes please! I will never, never experience that and your description brings it right to me.

Nick's just lucky Derailed wasn't out there.

Wyre wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:30 pm

Yes please! I will never, never experience that and your description brings it right to me.

You snaked me.

You've already had one. Wave hog!

Maroubra, Tuesday morning. Paddled into a 2' bomb. Limited visibility due to the suffocating bushfire smoke. Took the drop like AI at Chopes. The section I had hope to fcuking smash crumbled like fetta, so I lay down and belly-boarded to the beach where I got changed and had a coffee.

EUWWW!!

Who wants to claim it?

Aj, I'm not sure about your spelling of Yewww. Sounds more like a mix of disgust and 'Euro' as said by a European.

But yeah, I'll claim it

Sorry, forgot to mention that you dropped in on Froggy.

He's at 1:26...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... e=emb_logo

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:42 pm

Maroubra......Paddled into a 2' bomb......The section I had hope to fcuking smash crumbled like fetta

Nobody got pics of this sequence by chance?

If so, GSTQ will turn it into gif image and walessplain for years to come about how you were out of step.

Sorry for hurting your feelings iggy. I promise I won’t mention it again

I knew you’d bite.

And I knew you’d reply with exactly those words. 2-1 to me, I think

How’s the tick tacks going this week? Rare as hens teeth slabs or back to flapping in wind mush?

Still waiting on a explanation of that upright bunny rabbit getting caught behind. Lots to unpack there