RealSurf Surfers' Forum

alakaboo wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 5:45 pm

One's measured on the deck, one on the base.

Shearer measures his cock from the base, thats why he reckong its so big.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 3:43 pm

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 2:31 pm

I’m pretty sure people in another surf cultural slipstream would think we were talking about something totally different, but so what?

Beg your pardon?

There's a lot of people who go surfing and there's different cultures inside the culture.

Most people don't lead a culture, mostly they slipstream it - adopt terms and approaches and so forth from others, often without really knowing where the terms etc come from.

So in surfing, people are sliding along in different cultural streams. They thus have quite different pictures of what's going on. Like cranked is just off in some stream that's quite different to the ones I'm drafting along in. So is Polebean really. Those Insta murfers, they're in a stream separate to me. We would all not quite recognise a lot of the things we think and say and do around surfing. Like of course there is common ground but there's a lot of variety too.

So what I think of as 8-10' might match with a lot of surfers I know, and a lot of surfers I don't know but who are in the same streams as me. But it probably wouldn't match up with other people's ideas of 8-10'. I bet a lot of surfers don't even bother putting sizes on the surf, they just go out on most days and steer clear of anything that looks a bit suss. A lot of other surfers just surf certain locations and only really recognise surf within that context. If I said to such a surfer, "8-12' Sunset Beach" would it make any sense at all? Fcuk no, and I wouldn't expect it to.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 4:19 pm

alakaboo wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 3:51 pm

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 12:12 pm

foamy wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 11:58 am

As I understand it, in the Hawaiian scale the conversion factor slides with size.
So, a 6 foot wave may be 10 to 12 feet imperial, but a 20 - 25 feet wave is probably around 25 - 35 imperial.

Of course I don't really care foamy, I never ever just say feet, I always suffix it "faces" or use knee, waist, shoulder, head high and multiples thereof. Even meters is good.

I do find it a bit a absurd though that the good and simple measurement of "feet" has become so corrupted.

On Surf forecast I have the units set to metric so I can get the wind speed in km/h, I don't even look at wave size any more, just kJs and period. This week its over 2000kJ most of the week dropping to a 300kJ grovel by Sunday

Holup!

I was willing to let the kJ nonsense slide, but wind speed in km/h is a bridge too far.
Knots or gtfo!

amen.

why does brother Cranked find this so hard?

I find the surfer feet just a bit silly and pretentious really. And wave height not as useful in any guise as kJ.

For instance next Sunday the Ulu wave height is forecast to be 3.5' all day, but the morning 12s waves are 300kJ (crap) and the afternoon 18s waves are 600kJ (quite OK). This is a trivial example but it applies up through all the various swell sizes/periods.

Yes Nick, good points. I'm just leading the wave estimate culture ATM. There is no way the far more useful kJ won't win out in the end, if only for forecasting initially, but eventually for all wave estimations.

And especially for Shearers cock, its where the real power is

...

I'm not sure what to say Legion, you seem to be over reacting. The world won't end because I use feet as feet and prefer kJs because I consider them a more appropriate measure of waves.

The theory of metabolic rift is among the most dynamic perspectives in critical environmental surf/power studies today. There's this essay which argues that the problem with the metabolic rift perspective is not that it goes too far, but that it does not go far enough. I take a ‘use and transcend’ approach that takes metabolic rift theory as
an indispensable point of departure in building a unified theory of surf/capitalist development – one that views the accumulation of surf capital, the pursuit of surf power, and the production of surf nature as differentiated moments within the singularity of historical surf/capitalism. My response unfolds through two related arguments. First, the theory of metabolic rift, as elaborated by Foster, Clark, and York, which is grounded in a Cartesian binary that locates biophysical crises in one box, and accumulation crises in another. This views biophysical problems as consequences of surf capitalist development, but not constitutive of surf capitalism as a historical
system. The second part of this essay moves from critique to synthesis. Drawing out the value-theoretical implications of the metabolic rift – through which surf capitalism’s greatest contradiction becomes the irremediable tension between the ‘economic equivalence’ and the ‘natural distinctiveness’ of the commodity
(Marx) – I illuminate the possibilities for a unified theory of surf capitalist development and crisis over the longue duree. This is the theory of surf capitalism as world-ecology, a perspective that joins the accumulation of surf capital and the production of nature in dialectical unity. This perspective begins from the premise that surf capitalism does not act upon nature so much as develop through
nature–society relations. Surf Capitalism does not have an ecological regime; it is an ecological regime.

Legion wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 7:35 pm

I still think this is all just a massive troll. I mean really, in which carpark do you think others won't just laugh at you. Maybe Avalon I guess, with a bunch of sup riders new to the water. How have you surfed for ever without using the conventional system that every single other surfer I've ever met is familiar with? How can you struggle with it?

It's like petubot pretending once he didn't know how to talk to a teenage blonde girl at yoga and then creating this huge troll persona around this incel character.

Pays to go over old posts....not that I could be bothered myself. In America you will see people refering to the fact that East Coast Surfers measure waves on face value and people on the West Coast tend to call waves as per Hawaiian Size. I'm quite aware that this is a thing but as has been gone over a million times it wasn't always thus and it's stupid. I can safely say that I have only heard someone do the complete 3' is double overhead about four or five times. Most people stay clear of the topic from my observations.

What I've also noticed is the enforcers have a particular personality. Hatchie fits the bill.

Enforcers. God your a cretin. 99% of the Australian surfing fraternity use the scale, including the major local surf report sites. the 1% that don’t were alive to see Gidget when they were in high school.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 6:08 pm

..
. I'm just leading the wave estimate culture ATM. There is no way the far more useful kJ won't win out in the end, if only for forecasting initially, but eventually for all wave estimations.

Cranked, the Sunstroke of surf forecasting.

Okaaay!
I started surfing (on boards) in 1962.
In 1970 I stopped and got into motor sport.
In those 8 years I surfed mostly from Snapper to Currumbin Alley. With a few visits south as far as Port Hacking.
As it says in my sig. Six feet was six feet.
At the takeoff point. Irrelevant how small it got further in.

I came back to surfing in 1985 and the change in measurement had arrived.
For whatever reason. I don't care.
What Nick said above about the wave losing height as it gets closer to the shore makes sense as it did a couple of years ago when iggy also said that.

However, it's the takeoff area where most of the action takes place. Get that right and the rest of the wave is generally easier.
So to me that's the best place to measure it.

The bunch of oldies I surf with on Wednesday range in age from mid forties to early 70s and we all call wave sizes differently. Doesn't cause any friction or alter the amount of fun we al have.

So who gives a fcuk?

the 1% give a fk. they’re the amish.

offshore1 wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 02, 2019 1:01 am

Cranked wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 6:08 pm

..
. I'm just leading the wave estimate culture ATM. There is no way the far more useful kJ won't win out in the end, if only for forecasting initially, but eventually for all wave estimations.

Cranked, the Sunstroke of surf forecasting.

Not really offy. kJs are telling you much more about the wave than height does.

The difference between wave height and wave power is like the difference between using engine capacity or horsepower for a car.

Engine capacity does not tell you much about how powerful the engine is. Power difference for the same engine capacity can be double, triple or more.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 01, 2019 10:23 pm

Enforcers. God your a cretin. 99% of the Australian surfing fraternity use the scale, including the major local surf report sites. the 1% that don’t were alive to see Gidget when they were in high school.

Stop dissing on Gidget, Mr Standards Enforcer. 90% of the surfing population don't surf waves over head high so the scale is meaningless to the majority of surfers. What you are really saying is you hang out with or aspire to hang out with an elite crew who surf or aspire to surf double and triple overhead waves. That's fine but the scale is inherently elitist. Obviously I don't hang out with a crew like that or have any interest in trying to impress the surfers I meet that I'm on point. Quite the opposite. You go right ahead though and I will happily remain on the Amish side.

Perfect

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:10 am

That's fine but the scale is inherently elitist.

Back in my day, a six foot wave stayed a six foot wave until the bitter end. That's when waves had gumption and resilience. These soft-cock millennial waves break at six foot and immediately start diminishing until they're all frightened and small by the time they get to the sand.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:36 am

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:10 am

That's fine but the scale is inherently elitist.

For years I’ve been telling you what a Mong this guy is. one day people will wake up