Where did you surf today ?

Can't find the right forum, then post your general surf-related remarks here!

Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15064
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Sun Dec 18, 2022 11:07 pm

I agree with you Beany about dredging shallow reefs and rock slabs, I'm more into those perfect tropical reefs sculptured by the interaction of coral to the fresh water runoff from the land
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68233
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Dec 19, 2022 6:17 am

Yes, the vagary of sand banks mean an element of chance is added to any long term surfing plans.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

User avatar
Thud
Duke Status
Posts: 12540
Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:21 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Mon Dec 19, 2022 9:02 am

Cranked wrote:
Sun Dec 18, 2022 11:50 am
I can't remember the last time I surfed a sand break.

I guess about 40 years ago when I was living near Cronulla.
Would it be sacrilege to say I prefer sand on a day by day basis?
Beanpole wrote:
Thu Nov 17, 2022 7:34 pm
I grew up with Sikhs, Thudster.
Quoted from the book “A serendipitous life. Bean there, done that”

alakaboo
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 22625
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:33 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Dec 19, 2022 9:19 am

Perfect sand bottom point break > perfect reef break.

User avatar
steve shearer
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 44824
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Dec 19, 2022 9:27 am

It's a more uniform bottom which creates a better shaped wave when it's good.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15064
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Dec 19, 2022 10:28 am

Yeah, but too inconsistent.

Coral reef breaks are often better groomed than other reef breaks because of the interaction between historic coral growth as modified by the sunlight and the water depth, plus the impact from fresh water runoff from the land. And they don't change much over decades or even centuries.

Sand banks can change from day to day, dependant on wind, swell direction and size
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
steve shearer
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 44824
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Dec 19, 2022 10:41 am

Sand flow and deposition is a bit more complex than that in this part of the world.

Boo knows a lot about it.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15064
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Dec 19, 2022 11:08 am

The point is though that they change frequently.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 30934
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Mon Dec 19, 2022 11:10 am

Well I grew up surfing the sand bottom points from Snapper to the Alley and loved them.
However the rock bottoms at Fairy Bower (plus small Winki) and Dee Why more than kept me happy.
So my current local (rock bottom) plus Neill St and the Bluff are great.
Sand points further north are fine too.

I've never ridden a short board (well, less than 7'6) so beach breaks don't grab me.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68233
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:35 pm

I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 30934
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:40 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:35 pm
I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.
Surge Rock is what makes it interesting.
The eternal question, "Will I ride inside it, outside it or over it?" makes for a bit of extra fun. And for every wave, the right answer is different.

Sort of like, Rock; Paper; Scissors.
Oh shit!

ROCK!!

#*!
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

Beanpole
That's Not Believable
Posts: 68233
Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
Location: Button Factory

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:47 pm

That’s not selling it, Trev.
Bronte is much worse.
I’d say only a 30% chance of making it for most people.
Better when it’s bigger on a good day because it breaks on the reef further out.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 30934
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:10 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:47 pm
That’s not selling it, Trev.
Bronte is much worse.
I’d say only a 30% chance of making it for most people.
Better when it’s bigger on a good day because it breaks on the reef further out.
Wasn't trying to sell it mate.

It's a great wave. On good days you take off midway between Winki and Surge then run into the racetrack. Good long rides.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

User avatar
BA
Duke Status
Posts: 13448
Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 12:03 pm
Location: Mexico

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:15 pm

Trev wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:40 pm
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:35 pm
I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.
Surge Rock is what makes it interesting.
The eternal question, "Will I ride inside it, outside it or over it?" makes for a bit of extra fun. And for every wave, the right answer is different.

Sort of like, Rock; Paper; Scissors.
Oh shit!

ROCK!!

#*!
I rode over it once on a pretty big day. Got a severe pounding and dragged across the rocks. Never did it again.

User avatar
Trev
Huey's Right Hand
Posts: 30934
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:11 pm
Location: Any Point Break

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:16 pm

BA wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:15 pm
Trev wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:40 pm
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:35 pm
I like The Bower….except for Surge Rock in the fcuking middle of it.
Bronte Reef similarly would be a great fun wave if it didn’t have a fcuking big rock popping up halfway through.
Surge Rock is what makes it interesting.
The eternal question, "Will I ride inside it, outside it or over it?" makes for a bit of extra fun. And for every wave, the right answer is different.

Sort of like, Rock; Paper; Scissors.
Oh shit!

ROCK!!

#*!
I rode over it once on a pretty big day. Got a severe pounding and dragged across the rocks. Never did it again.
Gotta stay high on the wave.
Awesome watching it suck dry in front of you.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

User avatar
BA
Duke Status
Posts: 13448
Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 12:03 pm
Location: Mexico

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:19 pm

Yep, always went high after that. Going around can be sketchy coz it slows you down. Kinda like fading.

User avatar
steve shearer
BUTTONMEISTER
Posts: 44824
Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:45 pm

Cranked wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 11:08 am
The point is though that they change frequently.
Not always Cranked, sometimes perfect Pointbreak banks can be stable for months, even years.

Changes tend to happen in massive quantum shifts.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

User avatar
Cranked
Duke Status
Posts: 15064
Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:52 am
Location: Willetton

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Dec 19, 2022 4:30 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 1:45 pm
Cranked wrote:
Mon Dec 19, 2022 11:08 am
The point is though that they change frequently.
Not always Cranked, sometimes perfect Pointbreak banks can be stable for months, even years.

Changes tend to happen in massive quantum shifts.
Sand based ones, lasting for years?

All the Cronulla ones I surfed were sort of seasonal based on the prevailing currents and winds, but anytime of the year a storm could wreck them and it would take a few weeks for them to be re-established.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 55 guests