Hatchnam wrote:arvo session, 2-3ish foot, far north end on my ‘mid-length’
Right-hand peaks, refracting and wedging into a steep-late take-off, solid bottom turn, then quick pinch-up and set yourself into a down the line sprint that got bowlier, faster and straighter as you chased it down, finishing with a cutback at speed as the wave ended in the run-out channel. Some waves would break deeper and closer in. This gave you the ability to cutback considerably sooner then complete the wave with a floater or pull into a little cover-up bowl that was almost entirely seaweed.
2.5 hr session, and got a shitload of waves. board contributed greatly to number of waves caught, and suited the conditions perfectly. and not a hypto-krapto anywhere nearby.
My old minimal got my intermediate self into lots of decent waves. Long enough to paddle around moving water, but it got in early enough to negate most drops, except really steep ones, but in decent size and steep drops I'm a 50/50 proposition anyway. Thruster setup meant it moved around reasonably good. Partly the reason for my other thread.
Haven't had that board for a few years and haven't really gelled with anything in decent waves since, except the longboard but it's just too long.
Sorry to hijack.
