Where did you surf today ?
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- The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Unto the shitty shorey on offer at Bondi this morning , I also suffered
Erase.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Went for a drive and got a bank all to myself, small, no one in the water for hundreds of metres either side, couple of dolphins cruising by, sunny and having a blast on the mini mal.
Was good to be back in the water
Was good to be back in the water
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I had my first surf in aaaages this morning at longy. Looked pretty blown out and closing out. Maybe it was my low expectations but it was actually a lot of fun. I shouldn't leave it so long til next one
andy2476 wrote:
Ricky gets my vote. I hate undercover tards.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
All ready to go out yesterday at 1pm. The tide was low, about 6" of water over the reef, the predicted swell hadn't arrived, there was a light onshore, and no-one was out... so I sat down in the shade.
A couple with Christensen longboards arrived. They ask the best way out. I tell them there isn't one, that it's bad enough with a short board in booties. They started walking and I watched their slow progress for a while.
Bored, I decided to try a narrower reef spot further up near the point. It was not too bad, until I noticed what was probably the first set of the day, it broke violently about 10 feet in front of me while I was in 1' of water - ah, what's a few more cuts and abrasions.
I sat around, no-one else out. There was no wind here. Next set hit after about 10 minutes, shoulder high, beautiful smooth face, 30m ride.
Repeat for about 40 minutes, only about three waves though.
Then two paddle up from around the point.
I check the break about 400m back where the longboarders went out, they've gone now, so I paddle down.
It's now perfect, head high sets every ten minutes, glassy. I surf by myself for another two hours.
In the distance, between the triangle made up of Java and Bali, theres a vast column of heavy gray rain, atop of that are roiling, churning black clouds, on the sides huge bright white, pillow-like clouds float, and the panorama is completed by the dark Bali mountains, and an insect size plane inching its way across the backdrop.
Came in at 4pm, three hours of good waves with no-one out.
As I get to the top of the steps I look out and there's now 15 surfers in the water.
A couple with Christensen longboards arrived. They ask the best way out. I tell them there isn't one, that it's bad enough with a short board in booties. They started walking and I watched their slow progress for a while.
Bored, I decided to try a narrower reef spot further up near the point. It was not too bad, until I noticed what was probably the first set of the day, it broke violently about 10 feet in front of me while I was in 1' of water - ah, what's a few more cuts and abrasions.
I sat around, no-one else out. There was no wind here. Next set hit after about 10 minutes, shoulder high, beautiful smooth face, 30m ride.
Repeat for about 40 minutes, only about three waves though.
Then two paddle up from around the point.
I check the break about 400m back where the longboarders went out, they've gone now, so I paddle down.
It's now perfect, head high sets every ten minutes, glassy. I surf by myself for another two hours.
In the distance, between the triangle made up of Java and Bali, theres a vast column of heavy gray rain, atop of that are roiling, churning black clouds, on the sides huge bright white, pillow-like clouds float, and the panorama is completed by the dark Bali mountains, and an insect size plane inching its way across the backdrop.
Came in at 4pm, three hours of good waves with no-one out.
As I get to the top of the steps I look out and there's now 15 surfers in the water.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Awesome Cranked.
- steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
I was right there with ya Cranked, beautifully described.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Thanks guys, the background and the all-to-rare surf conditions were too good not to want to share it.
This morning was similar, the best break all to myself again but only for an hour or so, choppy swell quickly cleaning up, rain and lightning out to sea... then sunshine.
This morning was similar, the best break all to myself again but only for an hour or so, choppy swell quickly cleaning up, rain and lightning out to sea... then sunshine.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Great take, Cranky.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
It's getting cooler here, duckdives at dawn definitely wake you up.
Mostly closeouts but a few that had some run.
Tide was too full this morning for the 5'6" but I wanted a change and it was good to get a few pumps then eject out the top. Still one of the best feelings in surfing.
Had the sunrise on the way down and sunset for the drive home, the coast road is a great drive. 20 minutes longer than the highway but I almost always go that way.
Mostly closeouts but a few that had some run.
Tide was too full this morning for the 5'6" but I wanted a change and it was good to get a few pumps then eject out the top. Still one of the best feelings in surfing.
Had the sunrise on the way down and sunset for the drive home, the coast road is a great drive. 20 minutes longer than the highway but I almost always go that way.
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yes, nothing like ejecting at the end of a ride on a cold morning.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Beanpole makes love like a basketball player ... he dribbles before he shoots.
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Always puts it in the ring.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Voodoo 2-3ft lefts and rights, many of them running the full length of the reef. Surfed the 6”10 mid, heaps fun, constant turns like a pendulum
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I got toob'd baby !
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
interesting information
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Hi lacchele1
How did you go on the weekend? Did you also get toob’d?
How did you go on the weekend? Did you also get toob’d?
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