Where did you surf today ?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:25 pm

Aren't you worried about losing skills/surf fitness though in the months you don't surf.

The old adage: you don't get better at something by not doing it, applies brutally to surfing.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:29 pm

Legion wrote:
Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:20 pm
Each way. Welcome to WA.

He does multi day trips and it's pretty easy to pick a favourable stretch
Remember getting there as a young backpacker fresh off the boat. Driving up the coast and asked for directions to some spot and were told go down the road a bit and next right…. Go down the road a bit is like 3 hours.
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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:32 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:25 pm
Aren't you worried about losing skills/surf fitness though in the months you don't surf.

The old adage: you don't get better at something by not doing it, applies brutally to surfing.

Its already happened Steve. I'm crap on shortboards now. Nothing that 2 months on the bukit won't fix though :-D-:

I rarely surfed (couple of times a year maybe) in WA for the 6 years or so that I was surfing on the bukit. About time that I got back to that regime I reckon. Its been 3 years. I missed all 2019 when I tore my rotator cuff the first week in Bali, then covid for 2020 and 2021.

Fitness is fine though, as I said a daily bike ride for an hour and a swim for an hour 6 out of seven days. Plus stretches and exercises most days.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Goanna » Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:42 pm

Jesus piss off to the Bukit already, I'll take your waves. Book a week down south and cure yourself of the blues, you're jaded!

Surfed Snapper/Cooly yesterday, had a shit time but was also very hungover. Too aggressive for me, people yelling at each other again. I don't think I'll get back in the water until school holidays are over.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by jimmy » Mon Apr 11, 2022 8:10 pm

I surfed Burleigh today and yesterday. Not many people out because they were all at Snapper.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Apr 11, 2022 8:31 pm

Goanna wrote:
Mon Apr 11, 2022 7:42 pm
Jesus piss off to the Bukit already, I'll take your waves. Book a week down south and cure yourself of the blues, you're jaded!

Surfed Snapper/Cooly yesterday, had a shit time but was also very hungover. Too aggressive for me, people yelling at each other again. I don't think I'll get back in the water until school holidays are over.
I intend to do just that Goanna. I've caught 100 waves in Indo for every one wave I've caught in the SW.

I've spent 10 days down there over the last 20.

Yeah its way better than Perth but not a patch on the bukit.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Apr 11, 2022 8:37 pm

I'm kind of baffled by your inability to predict the surf in MR, Cranked.
What was the kJ forecast?

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Apr 11, 2022 9:34 pm

I don't have any prediction skills boo, I just use Surf Forecast and the local swell buoys and wind gauges.

The surf was very good by local standards 800-3000kj, mainly offshore (yes I saw the high pressure aligning nicely). A few days too big for me, a few days too small, a few days just right, a few days too crowded and a few days uncrowded.

On the Bukit I would expect, and get, perfection nearly all day, every day, with numerous opportunities for uncrowded surf.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Apr 11, 2022 9:39 pm

But you can't translate the buoy data into expected conditions on the ground?
I realize that the MR area has one of the more complex coastlines and it takes a while to get really good at it, but you should be able to have a decent idea.

A surfing reef is going in at Bunbury soon.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Apr 11, 2022 9:48 pm

Yes I can. It's just inconsistent.

One of my best mates has lived in Gracetown for 30 years, a super keen surfer. His summary is that it's a good place to live and surf but it's rare to get more than a few good days in a row - the bukit has good surf and perfect conditions for months on end. I don't really need to look at any forecasts, maybe just the tides and a check to see if it might be too big.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Apr 11, 2022 9:49 pm

Bunbury is like Perth, it doesn't really get any swell. There's an offshore reef (the old drowned coast line) that goes for thousands of kilometres (Dunsborough to Broom) that blocks - or by refraction wrecks - the swell, except for a few little pockets.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:01 pm

I know, that's why it's going there.

We have different approaches to surfing I guess.
I (clearly) don't need to go every day.
But for mine, the variability of the conditions and the challenge in figuring it out better than the mob is a key part of the appeal. I'd skateboard if I wanted it to always be the same.

Look at the posts from Channels about his trip to Noosa and the amazing and rare conditions he lucked into. He'll remember those sessions for years, and probably buy another surfboard that's woefully mismatched to the Sydney conditions he normally encounters.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by jimmy » Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:07 pm

Geez you can be a snarky bugger.
Hatchnam wrote:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:13 pm
How about tame down the scatter gun must consecutively post on every thread behaviour you compulsive mongoloid.
swvic wrote:
Mon Feb 01, 2021 11:54 pm
Actually, that’s interesting. Take note, beanpole

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by PeepeelaPew » Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:09 pm

...

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:11 pm

And oh, Surf Forecast doesn't know that the offshore reef exists so cannot factor in the blocking and destruction of the swell.

I caught a light plane to surf Rotto a few times in the 90s and saw how it turned a perfect 12' swell into 4' slop.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Goanna » Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:12 pm

alakaboo wrote:
Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:01 pm
I know, that's why it's going there.

We have different approaches to surfing I guess.
I (clearly) don't need to go every day.
But for mine, the variability of the conditions and the challenge in figuring it out better than the mob is a key part of the appeal. I'd skateboard if I wanted it to always be the same.
I’m with you Poo. For me, it’s not about getting perfection day after day. It’s about hunting the best wave on offer given the conditions. Sometimes I get it right, most of the time I don’t. But I always thought that’s what makes the chase exciting.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:23 pm

alakaboo wrote:
Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:01 pm
I know, that's why it's going there.

We have different approaches to surfing I guess.
I (clearly) don't need to go every day.
But for mine, the variability of the conditions and the challenge in figuring it out better than the mob is a key part of the appeal. I'd skateboard if I wanted it to always be the same.

Look at the posts from Channels about his trip to Noosa and the amazing and rare conditions he lucked into. He'll remember those sessions for years, and probably buy another surfboard that's woefully mismatched to the Sydney conditions he normally encounters.
They are putting in a reef because the swell is blocked?

I enjoy every good wave I get, the more the merrier! Too many is never enough
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:27 pm

alakaboo wrote:
Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:01 pm
I know, that's why it's going there.

We have different approaches to surfing I guess.
I (clearly) don't need to go every day.
But for mine, the variability of the conditions and the challenge in figuring it out better than the mob is a key part of the appeal. I'd skateboard if I wanted it to always be the same.

Look at the posts from Channels about his trip to Noosa and the amazing and rare conditions he lucked into. He'll remember those sessions for years, and probably buy another surfboard that's woefully mismatched to the Sydney conditions he normally encounters.
:lol:

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