Where did you surf today ?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Gone flat up here.
I needed the rest though.
I needed the rest though.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.
Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.
- The Mighty Sunbird
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
I remember as a grommet in Newie if I counted 10 out I’d think fcucking crowded.
Now I surf at Bondi lol
Now I surf at Bondi lol
Erase.
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- That's Not Believable
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Noosa used to be like that too. Twenty guys with literally nothing breaking.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Fun day of head high plus beachies. Three go outs. Had a bank to myself.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
So much for the heavy rain, large dangerous surf and freezing temps. A bit cool. Glorious day. Surf flat with 6 learners out on foamies. A couple of swimmers in the water.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yeah the sets are relentless and there's a fast river running around the point and down to PadangBeanpole wrote: ↑Thu Jun 03, 2021 12:21 pmUlus has been big lately on SOB. A few old codgers on rhino chasers scoring a few....and a few floggings. It always looks like a great wave to surf at a bit of size....until you look at how much whitewater you would be dealing with if you got smashed...plus coming in.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
So I believe Richard Harvey is credited with being the first person to surf Padang when he got washed down there on a big day.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I was sitting in a warung just near the old ulus steps, it was well after sunset and a guy I knew came running along the road with his board under his arm, WTF are you doing I said.
He said he had been surfing a huge swell at Outside Corner right on dusk when a huge set came through and washed him down the to Padang. He came across a surfer who had lost his board and was panicking.
He said he had been surfing a huge swell at Outside Corner right on dusk when a huge set came through and washed him down the to Padang. He came across a surfer who had lost his board and was panicking.
Last edited by Cranked on Wed Jun 09, 2021 1:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
ctd
He offered him his board and the guy gratefully accepted and calmed down. WTF I said. He replied that he didn't care if he was washed down to Kuta, he could swim all night.
He offered him his board and the guy gratefully accepted and calmed down. WTF I said. He replied that he didn't care if he was washed down to Kuta, he could swim all night.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
ctd
meanwhile Banksy had also been hit by the set and his leggy broke on the second holddown
Jim swam out sea because the swell had really jumped and waited there assessing his options. He hoped someone had seen what had happened and they would organise a rescue because well out the back there was a counter current taking him further out to sea.
In the end he started swimming, came in at Tomas beach where he came the the closest he had ever come to drowning - stuck in thick foam and not able to breath, he just had to stay deep and keep swimming under water.
He got home about midnight
meanwhile Banksy had also been hit by the set and his leggy broke on the second holddown
Jim swam out sea because the swell had really jumped and waited there assessing his options. He hoped someone had seen what had happened and they would organise a rescue because well out the back there was a counter current taking him further out to sea.
In the end he started swimming, came in at Tomas beach where he came the the closest he had ever come to drowning - stuck in thick foam and not able to breath, he just had to stay deep and keep swimming under water.
He got home about midnight
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Good story Cranked! How long ago was that?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
around 5 years ago, maybe more
Banksy said he was in the primo position for the next set and no-one was within 300m of him, most were already off to Padang to get in after being caught inside, no way in at Ulus. Then he saw the set and started paddling for the horizon. It was a day predicted to be big, I'd been watching from about 4pm and there wasn't anything really big. Jim came down and said he was going out at about 5pm, I said it wasn't that big, he said there might be a few around sunset...
I can relate Jim catching the previous biggest outside corner wave in the early eighties (eclipsed in that swell 2-3 years ago), that was absolutely classic:
Everyone surfed Padang in the morning, a few attempted Ulus, notably some crazy guys from the gong, but it was desperate stuff and no-one really got anything but severe beatings.
We drove up from Padang at about 3pm. No-one was out, around 100 people watching. Jim walked out from the cave (low tide) in a lull and started paddling. We could see a set on the horizon, it was going to be close. Jim changed his paddle line to point further south of outside corner (!!!!!), I though fcuk your gonna die there, the set was huge about 12 waves. Jim just kept paddling, he made it over 3, 4, 5 and the biggest wave was going to crush him like and ant, he was paddling up the face for all he was worth and it looked like he couldn't make it.... but he suddenly spun around on the face, took a few strokes and dropped in. He was behind the eight ball all the way and then there was the corner when it looked like a complete close out.
Jim's words later:
"I knew the corner was coming up and thought if I didn't make it I was gonna die. It started to pitch and I thought there was no way out, I scrunched myself up into the smallest ball possible and just held on for what seemed forever, then suddenly I was out with my heart pounding."
From the shore it had looked impossible, everyone new he couldn't make it, there were groans of disbelief, it lasted what seemed to be forever and then suddenly he made it out and everyone was cheering.
It looked like about 35' (imperial) to me. There's a faded print on his restaurant wall if you want to see for yourself
Banksy said he was in the primo position for the next set and no-one was within 300m of him, most were already off to Padang to get in after being caught inside, no way in at Ulus. Then he saw the set and started paddling for the horizon. It was a day predicted to be big, I'd been watching from about 4pm and there wasn't anything really big. Jim came down and said he was going out at about 5pm, I said it wasn't that big, he said there might be a few around sunset...
I can relate Jim catching the previous biggest outside corner wave in the early eighties (eclipsed in that swell 2-3 years ago), that was absolutely classic:
Everyone surfed Padang in the morning, a few attempted Ulus, notably some crazy guys from the gong, but it was desperate stuff and no-one really got anything but severe beatings.
We drove up from Padang at about 3pm. No-one was out, around 100 people watching. Jim walked out from the cave (low tide) in a lull and started paddling. We could see a set on the horizon, it was going to be close. Jim changed his paddle line to point further south of outside corner (!!!!!), I though fcuk your gonna die there, the set was huge about 12 waves. Jim just kept paddling, he made it over 3, 4, 5 and the biggest wave was going to crush him like and ant, he was paddling up the face for all he was worth and it looked like he couldn't make it.... but he suddenly spun around on the face, took a few strokes and dropped in. He was behind the eight ball all the way and then there was the corner when it looked like a complete close out.
Jim's words later:
"I knew the corner was coming up and thought if I didn't make it I was gonna die. It started to pitch and I thought there was no way out, I scrunched myself up into the smallest ball possible and just held on for what seemed forever, then suddenly I was out with my heart pounding."
From the shore it had looked impossible, everyone new he couldn't make it, there were groans of disbelief, it lasted what seemed to be forever and then suddenly he made it out and everyone was cheering.
It looked like about 35' (imperial) to me. There's a faded print on his restaurant wall if you want to see for yourself
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Cranked, love the tales. What happens to the wave when it hits this Corner- is that where it kinda unloads as a barrel? Do you normally take off after that?
I've never surfed Bali, or Indo. Was all ready to rock last year and the 'Rona hit.
The only positive to that sad fact is that I'm always frothing on what we have here, compared to the grumpy faced surfers who've just been to Indo and gotten shacked outta their minds. They always have a look like someone put soy sauce in their can of coke.
I've never surfed Bali, or Indo. Was all ready to rock last year and the 'Rona hit.
The only positive to that sad fact is that I'm always frothing on what we have here, compared to the grumpy faced surfers who've just been to Indo and gotten shacked outta their minds. They always have a look like someone put soy sauce in their can of coke.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Here's a good pic (look closely, everyone is at Outside Corner):
and diagram:
The above diagram has the peak in the wrong place though. Here's where it really is - and there's an outside peak when its big
On big days you can ride from the Bombie through the Peak, Outside Corner and Racetracks. The transition from the Peak to Outside corner is hard to make and thats where Jim nearly came undone.
and diagram:
The above diagram has the peak in the wrong place though. Here's where it really is - and there's an outside peak when its big
On big days you can ride from the Bombie through the Peak, Outside Corner and Racetracks. The transition from the Peak to Outside corner is hard to make and thats where Jim nearly came undone.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
The biggest wave ridden at Ulus yet to come.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Looks insane. Thanks, that's a good insight. I'm gonna come visit you next time you are there mate!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Sounds like Wyre’s gonna surf the biggest ulus wave of all time.
Take pics cranked.
Take pics cranked.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
And then I'll retire to shape boards for Flat Earthers.
Looks like a fun little rip bowl yew
Looks like a fun little rip bowl yew
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