Where did you surf today ?

[Glamarama]

some tow out and in surfing at bronte today. not me though. just watched from the cliffs.

it actually didnt look that heavy for 6ft+ surf. one guy paddling back in got hit by some white wash a few times just came straight back up to the surface in no time.

some other guys paddling out and into waves. actually got much better waves than the towies. the towies were for going for the bigger ones from way back and in 2 instances came off the back of the wave. ie wave didnt break for them.

[marcus]

jumped off the back of the pools to meet straddy out Flatrock, but ended up out at outside groper and nobbies.
it was interesting when i looked at my wave measuring and peak locating GPS device when i was on the shore, it said i had 447m to paddle back to the peak.
i found it very accurate, except the peaks were shifting.

[Donweather]

Scored some super fun 2-3ft beachies on an awesome bank that runs righthanders for a considerable length for a beachbreak. Word is out about it though, but still didn't have to share with too many. Feck I love Autumn!!!

[Donweather]

I think the massive high tide was taking some of the grunt out of the waves this morning, combine that with the waves "feeling" the outer bank before breaking on the inside.

[alakaboo]

Agree with the first part Don, what's the second part about?

I was on the mid Goldy on a fun bank, me a mate and 2 muppets complaining about their big night last night and generally just teabagging.
Got some fun ones.

[crabmeat thompson]

I've been indulging on this little left for the last week or so. Today was the best yet ... I got a gnarly rash under my arms from my vest which meant I only lasted an hour today.

I feel like I've been in indo for a week. My backhand might be the best its ever been. Or its this board. Dunno.

Autumn is the balls.

[Donweather]

Agree with the first part Don, what's the second part about?

Boo, where I was surfing there was a deeper outer bank and so the waves would stand up (not break) when moving over this outer bank, thus taking some of the energy out of the wave when it broke on the mid bank that we were surfing. So the size/grunt factor of the waves on the mid bank was less due to the waves "feeling" the outer bank first.

[Beanpole]

Fun but crowded. New board behaved well but I probably should have taken old reliable out to make the most of it.

[Trev]

Fun but not crowded.
Just the slightest hint of Autumn in the offshore breeze.
Bring it on.

[crabmeat thompson]

Paddled out to this bank which has been spoiling me rotten all week, for what looks like the best yet. Lefts and rights, mid tide, straight offshore. Only one other guy on it. Perfect.

A head high, slightly overhead set comes through, I duckdive one, cop two on the head. Get out the back and look around. Over my right shoulder staring out to sea. Are my eyes playing tricks on me? What the fcuk is that?

... They lined my horizon like a squadron of WWII spitfires . There was at least 20 of them, maybe as many as 30. I became a little disorientated, to be honest.

Then they started descending into the lineup. First a couple -- the front edge, I called them. Then the rest, it seemed like all at once they were next to me and beside me, behind me and in front of me. I wanted to fight back was powerless to even talk. My chin dragged along the rising and falling ocean surface.

Stand Up Paddlers. Most without leashes. Some with sun hats. The braver ones wore no shirts and above-the-knee boardies. It was bedlam. I felt small and like I was being slowly violated. I guess I was.

I looked back into the beach and on the rocky headland there were photographers and a video guy setting up. The photographers had tripods and were clicking feverishly.

Fcuk, my session was ruined. I considered my sudden state of affairs for a set or two. Up the beach it's closing out, down the beach is a nippers/ junior carnival. No car, I rode my bike. I did the only thing I felt empowered enough to do.

I undid my boardshorts drawstring, raisied my left -- non legrope leg -- through the leg and released my berries onto my board while my boardies swirled around in the current held to me by my leggie. I paddled hard for the next set wave, burning two SUP's either side of me in the process. I heard a, "Fcuuuuuuukkk!"

I smiled, possibly manically. We'll need to get the film to confirm.

I could feel the gaze of the camera lens on my shrunken tackle as I raised to my feet, drove the tail down and planted a bottom turn. The lip came down and collected me halfway up the wave face and drilled me. As I entered the face of the wave, I felt my bare arse be the last thing swallowed up out of view, if you were on the beach.

In the white water I dressed myself and climbed back on my board and let the white water take me into shore.

I hope the camera men as they watched me disappear through the back dunes ... I hope they wondered what the fcuk had just happened and if what they'd just seen was real. I mean I really hope I screwed with their thoughts for the next 15 minutes.

Told my wife about it when I got home. She thinks I may need psychological help.

[alakaboo]

Agree with the first part Don, what's the second part about?

Boo, where I was surfing there was a deeper outer bank and so the waves would stand up (not break) when moving over this outer bank, thus taking some of the energy out of the wave when it broke on the mid bank that we were surfing. So the size/grunt factor of the waves on the mid bank was less due to the waves "feeling" the outer bank first.

right, thought you meant further out than the outer bar. which is often a good thing.

[Damage]

On account of small surf I swam manly to shelly today for my first ever ocean-like swim. And made it. (Will build up to there-and-back)

Pretty happy with myself. Who wants to arm wrestle?

[daryl]

Paddled out to this bank which has been spoiling me rotten all week, for what looks like the best yet. Lefts and rights, mid tide, straight offshore. Only one other guy on it. Perfect.

A head high, slightly overhead set comes through, I duckdive one, cop two on the head. Get out the back and look around. Over my right shoulder staring out to sea. Are my eyes playing tricks on me? What the fcuk is that?

... They lined my horizon like a squadron of WWII spitfires . There was at least 20 of them, maybe as many as 30. I became a little disorientated, to be honest.

Then they started descending into the lineup. First a couple -- the front edge, I called them. Then the rest, it seemed like all at once they were next to me and beside me, behind me and in front of me. I wanted to fight back was powerless to even talk. My chin dragged along the rising and falling ocean surface.

Stand Up Paddlers. Most without leashes. Some with sun hats. The braver ones wore no shirts and above-the-knee boardies. It was bedlam. I felt small and like I was being slowly violated. I guess I was.

I looked back into the beach and on the rocky headland there were photographers and a video guy setting up. The photographers had tripods and were clicking feverishly.

Fcuk, my session was ruined. I considered my sudden state of affairs for a set or two. Up the beach it's closing out, down the beach is a nippers/ junior carnival. No car, I rode my bike. I did the only thing I felt empowered enough to do.

I undid my boardshorts drawstring, raisied my left -- non legrope leg -- through the leg and released my berries onto my board while my boardies swirled around in the current held to me by my leggie. I paddled hard for the next set wave, burning two SUP's either side of me in the process. I heard a, "Fcuuuuuuukkk!"

I smiled, possibly manically. We'll need to get the film to confirm.

I could feel the gaze of the camera lens on my shrunken tackle as I raised to my feet, drove the tail down and planted a bottom turn. The lip came down and collected me halfway up the wave face and drilled me. As I entered the face of the wave, I felt my bare arse be the last thing swallowed up out of view, if you were on the beach.

In the white water I dressed myself and climbed back on my board and let the white water take me into shore.

I hope the camera men as they watched me disappear through the back dunes ... I hope they wondered what the fcuk had just happened and if what they'd just seen was real. I mean I really hope I screwed with their thoughts for the next 15 minutes.

Told my wife about it when I got home. She thinks I may need psychological help.

Hallucination? Boardies above the knee yeah right

[Trev]

On account of small surf I swam manly to shelly today for my first ever ocean-like swim. And made it. (Will build up to there-and-back)

Pretty happy with myself. Who wants to arm wrestle?

Yeah. I get to choose when. I choose right after you get out of the water after your next swim.

All jokes aside, that's a good swim but it would spook me out swimming up the channel inside The Bower.

[Trev]

The winds are being kind up this way ATM.
So is the swell.

[BA]

Head-high, lumpy ones at Freshie with a healthy sized crew on it including a coupla pro's. It wasn't that good. Still some fun to be had and at least is above waist high for a change. Happy enough.

[kookster]

The winds are being kind up this way ATM.
So is the swell.

Sh!t you jinxed that Trev

[murrum]

Put off the morning meeting till 11. Lumpy 4ft at the local breakwall with 6 other friendly crew, nice to give the backhand a good workout.