Where did you surf today ?

[Trev]

Perfect 3 to 4 at my home away from home local. A bit fat but glassy and very smooth. Got bloody crowded about 5pm when 2 guys paddled out at the same time! Four in the water is just not on...maybe I should sack em!

Have a good weekend everyone, hope you score some nice waves!

I can just hear them now.

"Ah Shit! The bloody boss is out here - AGAIN!"

[mustkillmulloway]

sunshine...half a foot at best....early

i actually...got some good ones

p.s was shit this arvo tho

[pridmore]

surfed at Nambour by the sea again, was tiny but was better than expected, the right board helped alot...plus my son had his first surf on new sled, always makes a crappy sesh more fun....it was quite a circus, all sorts of craft and all beginners .....great for the grommies.....

[gibber]

Set the alarm for 4am last night and went to sleep with a lot on my mind. I read an article in a yachting mag about a guy in britain who specializes in designing lightweight interiors for fast yachts and one boat in the article sounded very familiar, google confirmed my suspicion. In a past life I had won a contract to supply carbon skinned nomex panels for this project (pre-preg epoxy carbon fabric on honeycomb core) but the guys who were making the stuff in our facility couldn't produce a straight panel...even though they swore black and blue that they could. After many a sleepless night and calls to other suppliers around the globe I just couldn't get the gear to the user in the timeframe I had committed to, even though I had 100% garantees that we would not only make deadline, but the profit margin would be very healthy indeed. So sleep came but nightmarish dreams filled the void.
Beep beeep...4am bugger all sleep and I can't be fcuked
Woke around 6am, I remembered some of the dreams from the night and felt I couldn't sleep again so checked the BOM site for local winds. North by nor'west for the past 5hrs...hmm swell had stayed relatively even all night with bugger all period but at least there were waves.
Drove north listening to the troubles faced by those further north and in the deep south. Flooding and it's aftermath while in the west they are facing fires and gusting breezes but they have hope in being able to gain control and save the homes in it's path. I sipped on my coffee and wondered what will come next...fire, flood. locusts had been sweeping through last year so maybe it would be famine? Have to consult a theologian to authenticate the order in which they all should come...meanwhile I'm still driving and occasionally checking spots.
The water is so warm, after having surfed southern nsw last week paddling out was such a shock. Thank god or Darwin (most likely the latter, Charles not the city) I took out the twinny as my other sticks stil had cool wax on them.
Not many people out which was good, waves had that wind swell feel about them, not much push but enough to get me from take off to flick out, however short that may be. Plenty of peaks up and down the beach and smiles on the faces of those around me made the morning pleasurable and the odd one had a bit extra push and a little longer wall and even a foamy head dip was there to be had so all in all a great way to get the day back on track.
Near the end of the session a rain squall came in from the nor'east and the preceding wind ruffled the surface before dying off as the large droplets of rain bounced off the smoothed sea. Time slowed as I watched those drops first hit then feeling the salty sea bouncing back with alarm but then dropping back down again as if they knew their fate lay in being part of this huge expanse of ocean, to sense and know that they belonged and were a part of some truly special circle of life. I knew then that the meds I'm on are really fcuking with my mind.

[jimmy]

Shit Gibber.. As I was reading that I was thinking to myself, this guys on drugs!
But then your last sentence confirmed it!

I surfed a lovely reef break north of pacific beach in san Diego about 4ft ..

Can't wait for superbowl tomorrow when everywhere will be empty!

[Trev]

Actually, a great post Gaz. Well written.
Really captured the essence of the experience of surfing.
Something about 1 in a 1000 surf school graduates will ever know.

[Beanpole]

Ah, overcast, howling, cool southerly and practically dark at 5.30. After this week it sure feels good.
Had a crappy surf yesterday at about 1.30. Nearly burnt my feet off trying to get to and from the surf.
Man, its been hot.

[jimmy]

Actually, a great post Gaz. Well written.
Really captured the essence of the experience of surfing.
Something about 1 in a 1000 surf school graduates will ever know.

So you go to the same pharmacist Trev?

[Skipper]

Gaz! You're doing yourself a massive disservice with that last sentence!
Best post in this thread for a very long time. Actually best post anywhere here for a while, IMO, as far as capturing the mood, essence, mindset and spirit of this beautiful and pointless pursuit we do. Especially in the greater context of occurances nationwide.
Sheareresque, if ican be so bold to say, in nuance and perception.
Faaark no. The meds can't be too bad if yer picking up And conveying all that poignent symbolism. Absolutely great stuff. Go easy on yourself.

Me, today?, well didn't chase anything at north swell magnets but ventured down to Bronte for a body surf and more importantly a parkside wheelibin sound system and picnic presented by the marvelous Senior Bamboo to commemorate Jah Bob's birthday. Ire time for all present, despite the momentary failings of the wheelibin's battery. Southerly came thru on cue to blow it all away into the ether. Big ups PP

[mustkillmulloway]

i enjoyed your post gibber...thanku sharing

i surfed gaybay...was good early...2 ft peak

bit crew...as only one decent peak in bay...but cool...everyone got waves

( free the backpacker learner curse...too far them walk)

the left was wallie ( new word ) the right short and hollow

i got pitch on the right and some decent leftys

over riding a 6'10 tho

i love the board but

too much length...the old faithfull fish is coming out retirement i think

p.s the points had something on the low tide

[Trev]

Gaz! You're doing yourself a massive disservice with that last sentence!
Best post in this thread for a very long time. Actually best post anywhere here for a while, IMO, as far as capturing the mood, essence, mindset and spirit of this beautiful and pointless pursuit we do. Especially in the greater context of occurances nationwide.
Sheareresque, if ican be so bold to say, in nuance and perception.
Faaark no. The meds can't be too bad if yer picking up And conveying all that poignent symbolism. Absolutely great stuff. Go easy on yourself.

Absolutely agree Skipper. That's what I was trying to say but you said it sooo much better.

[Trev]

Actually, a great post Gaz. Well written.
Really captured the essence of the experience of surfing.
Something about 1 in a 1000 surf school graduates will ever know.

So you go to the same pharmacist Trev?

One to you Jimmy.
In all honesty though, I have been lucky in my life. No serious physical or mental illnesses (so far). I admit to a great admiration for the people who battle with various forms of depression. Some of the posts on Realsurf have been eye openers for me as to how widespread the issue seems to be.
I've known a few who've gone down that path as well.

[ledge71]

Got some nice 4ft's today on the island. Posted a few pics. The guy with the $3000.00 lens is on break so no beach shoots.

Have a good week guys.

[ledge71]

Got some nice 4ft's today on the island at a break we call "The Grave Yard". Posted a few pics. The guy with the $3000.00 lens is on break so no beach shoots.

Have a good week guys.

[gibber]

thanks guys.
i have discovered a new love for writing again
let me know if i bore you.
please
thanks

[pridmore]

stuff anyone who gets bored, you write well and I for 1 hope you keep posting, this forums needs it...

surfed Yaroomba and Maroochydore, both better than expected and pleasantly surprised with the winds staying lighter and a few showers kept it glassy, some really fun waves but then again, I seem to have fun in just about any surf lately, dunno if its been good waves or the buzz of sharing waves with my son or what but I have been stoked on surfing lately, pretty sure its got something to do with my mini-simmons and finless boards, even when its shit, its still super fun.....

[Trev]

I seem to have fun in just about any surf lately, dunno if its been good waves or the buzz of sharing waves with my son or what but I have been stoked on surfing lately, pretty sure its got something to do with my mini-simmons and finless boards, even when its shit, its still super fun.....

Nah!
You're back in Queensland mate.

[Cuttlefish]

Hey Jimmy,
Have you scored Blacks on a decent sized swell yet?
Or some of the points to the Sth?