RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Thanks beanpole. Good to know.

alakaboo wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:23 am

Sent you a PM, Wyre.
I recommend sorting out the back problem with a decent diagnosis first. I'm doing exercises I know work for me, based on 20 years of advice from physios.

Thanks for the pm ‘Boo. Been trying to reply all day but the kids are like some kind of time-sucking monsters, unstoppable in their insistent needs and wants. Will get back to you!
@Thud, oh yeah I’m aware of that. My couch is the Brown Death of backs, I usually lie on the floor etc. it’s more than that, but slouching is the worst thing you can do I reckon.
Legion, I think there’s a mobility/core combo issue- although playing Bridge might be good for my mind.

Physio is just too expensive for me unfortunately. I respect it, but can’t afford it. I’ve been lucky cos my step dad is a highly respected Osteopath- when pain has been acute, he has been a godsend- but he can only do so much, especially when I can’t help myself and go surfing even when back is still sore as fcuk.

Anyway, I’m on it. This aggression won’t stand, man.

i was out on my son's softboard in the shorebreak this morning and a local kid came running shouting "can i have a go? can i have a go!" i went oh okay here you go and a head-high set came right when he got on it and pitched him straight into the sand. it was a full-on wipeout. for a moment i was afraid he was going to get upset or scared but no he came up laughing and asking for more.

The Mighty Sunbird wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:14 pm

Thanks beanpole. Good to know.

Then you will also be pleased to know I paddled out into some mush at Bronte and had a thoroughly poor showing today.

Interesting. Please elaborate.

Started with having to remove my wetsuit once on the beach to dislodge a cockroach egg sac that had been stuck to the inside. Floundered around in the wind chop paddling against the rip on the left. Back to the right. I hate the reef at Bronte.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:38 pm

Started with having to remove my wetsuit once on the beach to dislodge a cockroach egg sac that had been stuck to the inside.

No matter how many times I read this, I just cannot come to terms with it.

I had a huntsman in mine once. Bit me too.

I noticed one on my board as I was about to paddle out.
I left it on the sand at the waters edge. A long walk from anywhere it would want to be.
I often wonder what happened to that huntsman.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 16, 2018 3:38 pm

Started with having to remove my wetsuit once on the beach to dislodge a cockroach egg sac that had been stuck to the inside. Floundered around in the wind chop paddling against the rip on the left. Back to the right. I hate the reef at Bronte.

I've consulted with my medical team - the Brazillian lady next door, a surfing mate and the matriarch of the clan where I'm staying - and the verdict is that I can resume surfing tomorrow!

And what a day to start: double overhead, perfect swell direction, light offshores and no crowds (WAM 4.1 now forecasts crowd size)

Go, Cranky.

In the water at first light today. One other guy out.

Magnificent sunrise over the cliffs, inky black clouds, yellow orange light, light rain falling.

A big turtle popped up between us and looked us over, a huge ray breached, looking like Dracula or a giant bat.

I paddled in after nearly an hour. No waves ridden - great morning

Why no waves ridden?? Flat?

About waist high, but it needs an offshore and bigger swell to work.

When there's no one out you don't have where people are sitting to gauge the swell size.

If only there was some sort of measurement of wave energy you could use as a gauge.

I love it when I pull up to check the surf and it's knee high and the pack is 300m further out from where the waves are breaking waiting patiently