RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:06 am

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 05, 2017 8:22 pm

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:03 pm

ps ha ha I went to mongbean's beach today, all I can say is Bondi is not taking any of this very well at all

Ha ha.....you went to Bondi in this weather. Sucked in. Hopefully the swell and rain will carve out some banks. They've been bulldozing sand into the gutters. Can you talk to the producers of Bondi Rescue, Nickompoop?
They leave the gutters in when they are filming.

I didn't go there to surf for god's sake, who the hell would do that

Lord, we get sick of those surf journos and big wave officiaonados lobbing at Bondi every time there's a bit of swell and a howling south Easter. Don't you guys use Coastalwatch?
Actually thought there was more chance of you talking to the Life Guards.
Hope you snared a dirty turmeric latte up at Gertrude and Alice on Hall St while you were there.

Same NB spot today and 20 guys out (yesterday there were max 5).

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 06, 2017 5:43 pm

Lord, we get sick of those surf journos and big wave officiaonados lobbing at Bondi every time there's a bit of swell and a howling south Easter. Don't you guys use Coastalwatch?
Actually thought there was more chance of you talking to the Life Guards.
Hope you snared a dirty turmeric latte up at Gertrude and Alice on Hall St while you were there.

actually I spent a wonderful hour talking with Tyler Wright.

Tyler could take the entire Bondi Hipster population and all their silly schemes and flick them away with her little finger. Not that she would. Well, she might.

oh by the way....man what a splendid afternoon it's been

Bit of water moving around lunch time. The odd chunky set.

Dawn session south maroubra reef. Absolutely heaving. Lots of water moving with late critical takeoffs. 50/50 mix of wide shutdowns and peaking walled up runners. You had to pick your waves. Dead low tide and a few rocks to dance around in the trough. Surfed the custom 6’4 Stuart Paterson rounded pintail single fin. Felt super smooth threading down the line then slicing off the top connecting the end section. Saw one guy mid-south end bank take off super late, pulled in standing tall and get spat out. Epic morning.

blurgh quietened a lot today. Beef has gone from both swell directions, very pretty with the morning offshore though. Suddenly about 50 people out where there hasn't been more than 10-15 for three days. All good. It's cool seeing people making sensible choices about when to surf re their fitness/commitment/skills levels, it spreads the load a bit and everyone gets some

fcuk I've gotta catch up with some work, I can feel the dark thoughts radiating toward me from various quarters. Ie,Yes we know the surf's been good, but....(resentment etc)

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 07, 2017 7:59 am

Suddenly about 50 people out where there hasn't been more than 10-15 for three days. All good. It's cool seeing people making sensible choices about when to surf re their fitness/commitment/skills levels, it spreads the load a bit and everyone gets some

Miiiiaaaaoooooww!

Steve. You’ll be happy to know that my trip to the beach this morning only took 22 mins. Only an extra 12 mins drive than previous for a property at less than half the price

Ha!
Fcuk, dead set yesterday was otherworldly down here. Normal surf spots elevated to magical. Saw so many incredible waves go unridden, actually spitting sand. I actually got sand spat on me by a barrel. I want to re-play that day so I can catch some of the waves I watched!

One, solid 8' and a little bit (I dunno, what do you want, triple overhead?) broke left maybe 100m off the back of the north Newport platform. There's a nuts reef bit out there that feels like Pipe when you surf it. I'd just come in and watched this thing square up on that reef and peel Rockpile style back into Newport proper, constantly doubling itself up on the sandbars one after another. The thing went to the beach. Eat my fcuking shorts, wave pools.

I still have no idea why you don't live in the Botany unit and rent out the Bankstown house Iggs.


It's weird how the human body works, apropos of nothing.
Yesterday, after a week of solid surfing, I felt really stiff and sore.
And I got so hammered, just rocking off and getting back in was a nightmare. Nightmare.
Coming in at the hut and having to abort the mission on the rocks because there were OH waves tripling up and smashing the rocks. Then paddling down to the bream hole against the current having to do about a hundred super critical duckdives to avoid being sushi on the rocks.

I'd discovered half way through the session that old legrope I pulled out from under the house was there for a reason and was so fin cut and sun damaged it was about to snap. So every wave, 6 ft double ups on the bank had to be duckdived.
One wave I tried to scratch into late, got held up, tried to pull back, realised I was going whether I liked it or not, freefell and landed the takeoff. Tried to pull in and wore the whole lip on the head. Felt like Jonah Lomu jumping out of a three storey building onto my head.

But after all that, this morning I feel fresh as a daisy. Light and loose.

Anyway, packing for Plomer now so probably no surf today. There's a huge bushfire burning there right now and residents enacting bushfire survival plans.

Went for a quick dip before work. Tama looked great. Breaking way out. Beautiful conditions.

Yes I was surprised to be one of 4 guys out yesterday. Surfed with a mate who likes Long Reef, so why not. Had a good time. The whole stretch there was empty and there were plenty of waves. Not the quality mentioned above, but good 4-6 with some protein in a few.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:58 am

I still have no idea why you don't live in the Botany unit and rent out the Bankstown house Iggs.

BIG difference in size and comfort, that’s why. And I’m not in Bankstown. I’m closer. Quick train ride to where AJ lives. Wonder what he’s up to?

Still some pumping waves about today.

Sure is.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:58 am

But after all that, this morning I feel fresh as a daisy. Light and loose.

DOMS takes 24 to 72 hours to peak...

so having surfed hard Mon/Tues/Wed I should be feeling stiffer and sorer today , right?