RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Trading it and buying a JS HyFi Subzero

tootr wrote: ↑

Wed May 17, 2023 11:12 am

Riding a log is 5% muscle and 95% technique.

9’2” Goddard and 10’ Carl La Maitre here.

Very true…..unless you don’t have the technique.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Wed May 17, 2023 10:22 am

So, Trev, how many old mal riders lug their logs around to Granites for a surf?
I’ve never bothered to walk that far.

The day I'm talking about there were only about 10 of us out. Most of us were over 65 at the time. Even Ti Tree was about 1 ft.
Granite was overhead but breaking right across the shelf.

They weren't genuine logs though. Just various mals.

There’s a few really good female log riders around here. Probably weigh 50-60 kilos wringing wet.
They can throw a log around no dramas.

I’m talking about carrying the thing. I’d guess it was 80lites.

I’ll stick to short boards in all conditions. Tried it. Hated it. Didn’t bag it at all. Nothing personal and no need to get triggered or defensive. There’s cock rings and blue pulls if you’re feeling all weird and stuff.

Pants wrote: ↑

Wed May 17, 2023 1:19 pm

I’m talking about carrying the thing. I’d guess it was 80lites.

I’ll stick to short boards in all conditions. Tried it. Hated it. Nothing personal and no need to get triggered or defensive.

I wasn't.
Each to his own.
Your comments just made me aware of what I'm doing most days.
It's about 600 metres over loose rocks and a slippery rock shelf to get to the keyhole access at my local.

Re: girl log riders…Plenty at Crescent. A few think they are at Bondi. The thing with real logs is you don’t do that much turning. Just a pivot take off then run elegantly to the nose and pose. Sit down if it looks hollow and then stand up again. Maybe a pivot cutback.

I used to ride a beat up old pig board with a reverse D fin. Still got it but it’s fcuked….delaminating and I took the fin off to spruce it up one time and have never bothered to stick it back on. Speaking of surfing without a leg rope…I did it before it became fashionable. Used to clear the decks pretty quickly when they saw that thing coming.

Pants wrote: ↑

Wed May 17, 2023 1:19 pm

I’m talking about carrying the thing. I’d guess it was 80lites.

I’ll stick to short boards in all conditions. Tried it. Hated it. Didn’t bag it at all. Nothing personal and no need to get triggered or defensive. There’s cock rings and blue pulls if you’re feeling all weird and stuff.

Not feeling weird.

It's just a strange story.

I've never heard, or seen, amongst thousands of people including backpackers and geriatrics, someone get beat up surfing a mal in tiny surf.

It's just unusual.

No drama though, it's not for everyone.

Well it was about 3-4ft. But, I don’t count that as large. But, I think the boards too thick, went and had a good look and I reckon 3.5 inches and hardly foiled. A poor tradesman and all that (me blaming board) to be sure but, it wasn’t some foiled out Gato or TJ pro etc..it’s a zeppelin. I’d had goes on different long boards at small crescent and it was fine/fun but, I hated this.

Anyway. Let’s move on. Has made me like short boarding again.

Is it wide too?
That can make boards very awkward to handle.
Look at all the foamies with hand grips in the deck.

Pants wrote: ↑

Thu May 18, 2023 11:43 am

Well it was about 3-4ft. But, I don’t count that as large. But, I think the boards too thick, went and had a good look and I reckon 3.5 inches and hardly foiled. A poor tradesman and all that (me blaming board) to be sure but, it wasn’t some foiled out Gato or TJ pro etc..it’s a zeppelin. I’d had goes on different long boards at small crescent and it was fine/fun but, I hated this.

Anyway. Let’s move on. Has made me like short boarding again.

sweet.

Tried the mid-length thing Pants?

Thats a fun ride in small reef surf.

No think I will. Thanks Steven

Stephen.

Irish spelling, not American.

I got back on the 7'0 gash midlength the last two days.
There is a certain break here where it is just a match made in heaven.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Fri May 19, 2023 8:32 am

Stephen.

Irish spelling, not American.

Noted

Simon Farrer just dropped this clip of a recent trip to Samatra ...

Poor old Loof can only dream of surfing at this standard.

https://fb.watch/kLKcOoff89/

That's "The peak" very short but hollow, right in Krui. Kneelos only. Looks great in still shots.
Nice footage of the area though, beautiful spot.

marauding mullet wrote: ↑

Fri May 26, 2023 11:07 am

That's "The peak" very short but hollow, right in Krui. Kneelos only. Looks great in still shots.
Nice footage of the area though, beautiful spot.

Bro, thats not the peak and not kneelos only.

Edit - apologies, opening scenes.