Define me a LOCAL

[wanto]

well the cartoonist is a seppo ...

[daryl]

Leave it to Beaver

[Quangers]

You can always pick the local at a country break - they're the one's who wait until you catch your wave of the session before they drop in, fade you and paddle back out as looking at you as if you almost ruined their wave.

[Sarge]

In the country being a local is part of being local to the whole area. The surfing is just part of the whole.

In the city its all about claiming the right to drop in and snake. The rest is just window dressing. Trying to convince yourself its okay to act in a way you really can't justify except by saying your a local. A fig leaf over you base behaviour.

On the money!

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[silvafish]

i once gave the boys that worked at dy bakery a carton to let me drop in on them out the point..scored two bombs...well worth the price,these days where ever i surf iam usually the oldest cat out there,when crew ask how long ive surfed here..i just point at the closest house and smile..your wave sir! works worldwide too!

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Sarge]

What's 'backpaddling' :?

After catching a wave paddling inside right past the guys sitting there instead of just paddling up and waiting on the shoulder for them to take their waves.

Toby

Well mate if you think you're good enough to just "backpaddle" you should refer to a number of the other threads. That said there is merit in picking off a few cheapies on the inside.

[Surfin Turf]

What's 'backpaddling' :?

After catching a wave paddling inside right past the guys sitting there instead of just paddling up and waiting on the shoulder for them to take their waves.

I'd probably drop in on you too .... if they're 'locals' and can surf it's likely they are sitting in the right spot and regardless of that, a strategic approach with a bit of sharing usually harmonises things in the line up ...

I have a bit of a personal set of rules I follow and share for anyone who's interested ....
Firstly I try to avoid the crowds unless I have to sit there due to conditions ...
If you can surf I will attempt to share waves with you ... and try to make it known by where sit after a wave, and moving inside as it becomes my turn ...
If you are a less skilled surfer than me ... sorry, I'm straight up the inside for the deeper take off ... but I'm not greedy ...
If you dont want to play my game I'll drop in on you ... then tell you why ...

In a bunch of guys who can surf well anyone can just paddle up the inside ... that's easy, and an easy way gain attention ...

[dunnc]

I "backpaddle" alot, but then again though I also let quite a few run through for the lineup before going for another...as I get older I enjoy the rest (and need it)

[oldman]

In the country being a local is part of being local to the whole area. The surfing is just part of the whole.

True enough there beanpole, and I would say that it applies as much to city folk as country folk.

Here's the rub. If you think that being a 'local' gives you 'rights' then you have just crossed the line over to redneck, and city slickers can be every bit as red in the neck as our country cousins.

If you're a local, your local knowledge should be your advantage, not some strange and ridiculous heirarchical world that exists only in your imagination.

I live on planet earth. The ocean is my local.

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Beanpole]

I reckon the best bit about surfing a particular wave you like is how well you get to know it. Theres waves I love surfing that suit my style and have lots of interesting sections to hook in to. Then theres the local breaks down the road

If you know a wave well and surf it well it doesn't matter how long it takes to get there. The best thing about surfing is travelling to great waves.

[Trev]

The best thing about surfing is travelling to great waves.

Not sure I agree with you there "stake". To me the best thing about surfing is surfing great waves. The trips to and from, the cold, the wind etc can be invigorating, exciting or just plain pains in the arse and they certainly highten the stoke but, without the surf they'd not be anything special.

[Morty]

I don't fit in anywhere......grew up in Newport, learned to surf at Avalon and Palmy, now live at Cronulla (10 years). I am known to lots of Cronulla surfers, but still get nods of recognition if I travel North to my roots.
What am I, a blow-in to everwhere and local to no where? I love this thread, especially when that bloke on the first page said he rooted his sister and got off on it. What the???

[monkeyman]

I agree with most of what has been said.

I moved to Fairlight 5 years ago, I surf often at Manly/Queenscliff. I hang out in Manly with my wife and kids, but I'm not a local. I haven't grown up there, I wasn't a grom at the surfshop, I didn't eat chips on the beach, etc etc. I also don't define myself soley as a surfer, late 30's black hair, city job, so I can never 100% fit the subculture. So I'll maybe never be a real local surfer, but I'll always be a regular.

[Chong]

Theres waves I love surfing that suit my style and have lots of interesting sections to hook in to. Then theres the local breaks down the road

I know that feeling - not all surf spots are created equal. I look at my local like a junkie looks at Methadone - ok to tide you over but not as good as a pure hit e.g.: a non fat, non lurchy, hollow, peeling surfable wave that promotes a good style as opposed to hindering it.

[daryl]

Theres waves I love surfing that suit my style and have lots of interesting sections to hook in to. Then theres the local breaks down the road

I know that feeling - not all surf spots are created equal. a non fat, non lurchy, hollow, peeling surfable wave that promotes a good style as opposed to hindering it.

not shallow or snappy :? , breaking so I can tell which direction, and can get up, in position, and stay with it Goldilocks speaking here

Furked locals, go live somewhere else.