If you are a keen surfer who regularly checks Fleet NUMERICAL & Swellnet, there is a book that gives lots of insights into waves &weather.
The book called Surf Science is written by Tony Butt,a contributer to Surfers Path magazine.
There are chapters on, the formation of low depressions,propogation of free travelling swells, refraction,tides & lots of new words such as parameterization.There are explanations of processes such as turbulent eddies,capillary waves, convex refraction & adiabatic cooling.
It also has a list of books for further reading.
The only negative for Oz surfers is all the weather/swell map examples are for the North Atlantic Ocean.
Surf Science-book recommendation
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