RealSurf Surfers' Forum

How can you be there and not know about Snapper and Greenmount? Back in the day Greenmount would still occasionally break better than Kirra. Similar to footage today if there was good sand. Snapper used to end at Little Marley. Not many people took off in front of the rocks out the end in those days...

After the big groin was added there was a gutter right along the point. No waves broke. Then a big left peaky bank appeared way out level with where the second groin was later built. They held the Queensland Titles there one year. MP was going straight down on his little MOTE square tail and going s...

It’s funny looking at it today. Obviously you have the same overarching bathymetric set up but it’s breaking way further out. Used to go out between the rocks in front of the weather shed before the groin and it still used to cut right through there for many years. There was a rock it used to break ...

Article said he was out there with five others for a while before everyone cottoned on…….it happens. Obviously later or a different session is Steve says otherwise.

There’s an article about it on Swellnet I think. I remember scoring Kirra one time with just my mate that I’d driven in with from Kingy. We were checking out Goodtime while this storm hit and walked out to the groin to look afterwards. Wind had swung offshore and nobody out.

I hoped Rincon would have been surfable when I was there. Pretty flat. Went for a walk on the beach. Luxury Houses right around…..and a very dead seal on the sand. We were staying near Sand Bar and the harbour. Venturas got heaps of point breaks. As I said earlier you can camp right next to the wate...

Woke up pretty stiff and sore for some reason. Maybe the surf a couple of days ago. Went down for a bash and wasn’t sure how I would go but managed one really nice left and a couple of other okay ones before calling it a day.

Softlite are way ahead of the pack IMHO.

When we tried to drive through Big Sur the road was out. So we got as far as the first village and had to turn back to Monterey. Went inland which was interesting and came back to the coast at Cambria. Drove up to the Southern Extremity of Big Sur plus checked out Hearsts Castle which is a total tri...

My Chopstick fcuking kills it. 60/40 rails. I occasionally drag something else out but unless you want to nose ride there’s not much performance advantage in riding a fibreglass mal in typical Bondi conditions.

After watching regular clips of Jamie O’Brien getting shacked at Pipe on a 9’ bright pink foamie it’s time to admit that all surfboard design is irrelevant to performance.

I’ve been glad to have some cool weather and a couple of days off from surfing.

buddy wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 17, 2024 8:41 am

Like the Peterson bros?

Yep. First time I surfed Kirra was in a club comp against Kirra. Tommy was in the juniors

Most of mine were on the bong.

Further south from you at Pleasure Point (33rd avenue) Mostly 4 foot waves, got a couple of nice long rides on the longboard. Cold but it was a beautiful morning, clear, blue skies etc... I had a surf at Pleasure Point. So many right hand point breaks in California. All around Santa Cruz. Same arou...

Didn’t Ben Gravy surf there one time.

Tama was fairly solid this arvo and looking the best I’ve seen it in a while. Thought it might be doing it with more swell. Fairly large pack. Out of my league these days.

A bit bigger today and really crowded. Solid rip running. Managed two long fast lefts and a good right I barely managed the take off on. Called it a day after that. A lot of expensive mid lengths and mals in the water with very rudimentary riders.